Superb facility. Sadly, the gym is a breeding ground for dangerous belaying techniques.
The only belay device that you are allowed to use is the GriGri. Apparently the climbers in this gym believe this device will perform miracles, because 50% of the people are comfortable routinely letting go of the braking rope, or do not hold it AT ALL!
Upon asking the staff about this, they said they "mention it, but if people don't listen, what can you do? (*nervous laugh)" It's very simple: you tell them to stop putting another person's life at risk, or they have to leave.
To illustrate why this is reasonable, let's consider another business: a shooting range.
Rule #1 in a shooting range is: never point your gun at a person. What do you do if someone decides to ignore this rule? You remove them from the facility, because they could kill someone.
Rule #1 in climbing is never let go of the brake side of the rope, and for good reason. If I were Petzl I would be ashamed of this gym allowing for this culture of negligent belaying to breed, while this gym is sponsored by them.
What are beginners suppose to learn from looking at the belaying in this gym? Apparently it's okay, because they are allowed to continue to stay.
As a gym you're responsible for the safety and well-being of your customers. That includes ensuring an environment where new climbers (and veterans) do not learn risky behavior...
Read moreNo doubt the gym is huge and everyone will find its place. Everyone? Unfortunately the raw hard core boulderer/climber is a bit off. Let me explain: Only 6 routes of the hardest grade. (Ok there's a kilterboard). The same with the routes. Theres are hundreds of routes graded 5b-7c. Why there are not one or two routes 8a or 8b for ambitioned climbers? Training boards in the last part of the gym, separated from the general training area One broken brush!!! How you are supposed to clean the holds after bouldering? (what is adviced in the gym rules)
I know that's complaining on a high level. But firstly the day pass is 17 euros. And secondly Chris Sharma gives his name and in that regards should be also possible to give a space for his supporters.
But i wanne lay out some positive impressions as well: opening hours from the early morning until evening. Thats luxery. Big thank you!!! tones of autobelay systems, which alow route training without a belayer. proper workout area with a giant calistenics platform.
To conclude i have the impression that this facility is perfect for the comfy city climber who is able to pay and not willing to train...
Read moreI've been going to this gym for two years now and although they have an incredible hold and volume selection, the routesetting and work-ethic here is lackluster at best.
The boulder problems are uninspired, and the density of the problems on the walls is ABYSMAL. These routesetters are the laziest of any gym I've seen in America or Europe, they rarely reset and when they do, it's usually 5 or 6 problems for an entire swath of wall.
My favorite place to climb in the gym is the overhanging "cave". This hasn't been reset for over a month and a half, and this entire area has THREE PROBLEMS SET, problems which by the way are completely inaccessible to beginner or even moderate level climbers. It's such a waste, this place has so much beautiful wall space and an incredible hold selection yet they neglect to use it.
Facilities are whatever, staff arent friendly but aren't necessarily rude, it's all ok at best. If you're a beginner or are stopping by you'll have a great first day, but being a member here isn't worth it considering it's the most expensive gym in the city by FAR. Go to Sputnik, it's cheaper and...
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