Central Rock Gym — Attraction in Hadley

UPDATE: this location is setting up both a kilter board AND a tension board. Thanks for listening to the members! They now close at 10 on weekdays and 7pm Saturday and Sunday. I’ve also been seeing more slab sets that are in the mid range of difficulty.

In exchange for the awesome new system walls, though, the spray wall has been taken down. 🥲

Original post: Good setting, softer grades than most gyms I’ve climbed at. (I onsight V7 here consistently and project V6 outside.) Sometimes I come across a V6 that easily feels like a V3-4. I climbed a V9 the other week after three sessions, I could maybe do that on a V6/7 outside.

The sport routes are GREAT and challenging. Very consistent and taller 45’ walls.

The lead wall is stellar. It models outdoor climbing more than any other gym I’ve been a member of.

I wish there was a more mid range slab set and a taller slab wall to practice footwork mobility and balance. They are lacking in this area and in climbs that challenge my technical ability in the mid V5-V8 range. It’s either an easy V1-3 or an impossible V9-10 slab or techy problem. There needs to be a happy medium. I know this is a huge challenge. Bring in some guest setters from NYC or Memphis Rox and do some challenges for the setters!

That said, they are accommodating for all ages and skill levels. Kids area up top along with a hard as nails spray wall you can use the “Stōkt” app with on the other side. Open 6am-11pm MWF and 11am-11pm Tuesday and Thursday with shorter weekend hours; usually closing at 7pm.

Workout area is underused and has a phenomenal selection.

Yoga is offered, I have yet to take a class and do my own flow at home.

This gym is EXPENSIVE: you do get access to multiple gyms, but when I am traveling, I am climbing outside, not another gym. I wish they offered a yearly membership at a slight discount or a Hadley only gym price at a lower cost. The 2022 membership monthly price is $89 for one person and $145 for a couple. I believe the student price is $65 a month. This mirrors NYC gym prices and they can do this because they have monopolized the northeast.

For the price they are charging they don’t even provide a system wall (Moonboard, tension board, kilter board, grasshopper.) or nearly enough auto belays. even when they have the space for it. I really hope they implement these in the next few years. And I will keep pestering until they do. This is a HUGE value add for climbers that train and would be a huge asset to your comp kids. The other locations have one, why not here in western mass?

I had a moonboard provided at my grungy gym that cost me $40 a month back in Tennessee, for reference.

I have made countless friends here and it is my home away from home, but this is CRG Hadley...

If I could give CRG 6 stars I would, and I really should since this review is almost a week late. I walked in last Friday to ask about the chance to take a lesson or learn privately with an instructor. I know how to belay (I work at a camp which has a top rope three-faced wall, bouldering, and multiple high rope elements) but I have (HAD!) a mental block and a fear of climbing. Elayne (who I later learned is the General Manager happened to be standing at the desk when I walked in and was very sympathetic to my plight. She answered all of my questions, worked with my schedule (I'm not from the area and was only visiting for the weekend), and then booked me a session with her for the holiday Monday before I left for home.

To say that this lesson was lifechanging would be an understatement. I walked in with some apprehension, but after meeting Elayne several days prior it felt much less than I had anticipated. I got geared up (with the gym's rentals since I had forgotten to bring my own harness and had never used climbing shoes before) and we were off to check off my knot tying and belay skills. That was reassuring because even though I fumbled my first re-trace figure eight (nerves, OK!?) Elayne remained understanding, calming, and kind. Then it was time to climb and I can only say that the rest of the experience was empowering. We spent an hour focusing on fundamentals, falling, and technical aspects that all truly made me feel inspired and excited to keep going. Oh, and sore,...but in the best way!

I felt so great that I went climbing the next night at a gym closer to my camp back in NJ,....and I miss CRG and Elayne. For anyone who is nervous, anxious, scared as a beginner climber or going through anything even as experienced climbers I promise that Elayne and CRG...

There is truly something for everybody, from beginner to expert. CRG has experienced and friendly instructors available if you need lessons. They also have a state of the art fitness area with free weights, treadmills and a plethora of other exercise equipment. They even offer outdoor rock climbing excursions for members throughout the warmer months.

We arrived on a sunny afternoon before it started to get busy and were greeted by our most excellent host Hana. Hana keyed us in on the many amenities offered, such as fitness training specifically designed for rock climbers and yoga classes for flexibility and mental strengthening. Walking in to the main gym for the first time was exhilarating. We were confronted with thousands of multi-colored and multi-faceted handholds from floor to ceiling. Children and adults were scrambling up over and under the bouldering wall which stretched the entire length of the gym. The rest of the outer walls were lined with top rope stations of varying degrees of difficulty while the entire middle of the gym was occupied by a giant cave like structure for some serious lead climbing.

If you are looking for a new way to get in shape. If you are looking for something to get your children interested in that is healthy, challenging, and loads of fun, then Central Rock Gym is worth checking out. Be forewarned though. Once you try it, you will be hooked for life.

Have fun and climb on :) ~Gemini Extreme...