When he heard we were heading for the small town of Galaxidi, a taxi driver in Athens had one question: "Why?"
The answer: it was my wife's serendipitous discovery. But I didn't know how to explain that.
Questioned if he had ever been there himself, he admitted he had not. So I promised to report back.
At first sight, Galaxidi is a very quiet if beautifully located maritime town reached from Athens by a twisting road passing hilly terrain and expanses of beautiful olive trees. It feels cut off: in a good way. It takes a day or so to work its charm and you then find that its silence speaks to you in its own way.
A breakfast and cookery session at Ganimede Hotel led by Chrisoula Papalexi sums up much of what is lovely about this place, some three hours south of the capital.
After one of her Greek breakfasts - which are never the same two days running - a whole new culinary world opens up. Greek yogurt with honey we all know but how about shredded carrots or a red pepper sauce? Fabulous. A queen of condiments, she seems to pluck amazing ideas from the ether and bring them to life on the plate. Ask her what's in a sauce and there's a twinkle in her eye as she answers, only too willing to share he joy. The breakfast here is a meal to relish, including eggs, however you might like them, pies, cakes and all manner of specially concocted homemade sauces to add or bring out flavour. I hadn't considered the Greek breakfast before coming here. I doubt I'll ever forget it on my return. And isn't that the beauty of travel; of taking a chance?
Invited to join a cookery class, we jumped at the chance. My Chinese wife knows the pleasure of cooking with family, chatting together while hands knead dough and shape dumplings around a table ready for a feast together later. Here we discovered that feeling with hands deep in spinach, dill, leeks and pastry as we fashioned our own spinach pies alongside a Dutch family, trading tales of our lives with people who had been strangers less than an hour before. There's beauty in that too.
The pies were fashioned in a team effort under the encouraging direction of our hostess, who revealed she had gained her love and early knowledge from her mother and grandmother. Food, that thing that unites us all regardless of language, politics or beluefs and provides the thread that links us to generations now gone and still to come.
That pie was going to taste good regardless of our technique, our culinary shortcomings or flavouring. Time spent round a table getting our hands dirty with this one focus ensured each one of us - teenage children included - had a personal stake in that pie. We had given it our time and our love.
Tasting it later after a swim in the salty bay that flavours this proud little port was a delight. Our technique may have lacked something but it added up to something unique.
We'll have breakfast there again tomorrow on what will be our daughter's birthday. I can't think of a better place to celebrate it.
So what shall I tell our taxi driver on return to Athens? I'll tell him to allow himself a day or two off work and to set his satnav for Galaxidi to find out...
Read moreI stayed here for a few nights last month. i chose it because we had stayed before about 5 years ago and then, the breakfast was 'award winning'. Not any longer. Whilst it still has nice touches...there is a lot of artificial and very un Greek stuff going on. Advertised on the board outside, the breakfast includes honey and yoghourt. A very small portion of yoghourt is served minus the honey. You have to ask for it. Not a big deal, i know but coupled with the 'margarine'issue, it became less tolerable. My husband and i breakfasted 3 times. On day one we were presented with cheap margarine...not very award winning. The girl who served us ,when asked, honestly told me it was 'vitam' ( a well known margarine in Greece). On day 2 we asked the same question of the owner who was less honest. First she tried to say it was butter and then, realising she was not believed said it wasn't butter. She shortly returned with real butter. Corner cutting i think. Anyway, i reviewed the hotel and breakfast on a booking platform and the owner had the cheek to then suggest that the problem lay with me and not her 'inconsistency'...suggesting some rubbish about me not being able to recognise butter as it was so pale. What annoys me about her attitude and total inability to take constructive criticism is this......she does not know what her guests do outside their holidays with her. She is trying to treat them like they are fools. Does it not occur to her that when someone (like me) tells her that what she has put on the table is not butter ...i might know that because , for example, i might be a Michelin Chef?...
Read moreWe visited Galaxidi and stayed one night at Ganimede (A small hotel/guesthouse) in March 2025|Delicious breakfast with perfect light apple crumble slice, yoghurt with carrot jam (gorgeous) and other toppings, freshly squeezed juice, lemon curd, delicious apricot chutney to go with the local|Cheese. These were our highlights - no space for cooked breakfast!||Our room was a triple -with a balcony/terrace - very tastefully decorated-retaining some antique features including a painted wooden ceiling and furniture. It gives a nice personality and atmosphere. Comfortable large bed & airy large bathroom with fluffy towels. Great value for the quality. |Parking on a quiet road outside in a quiet village on the Gulf of Corinth. Nice waterfront area with a few cute shops & restaurants with views over the gulf to the snow capped mountains behind Delphi |Galaxidi is about 25 mins from Delphi & ideal location for visiting the site- you can get an earlier breakfast if needed. ||A special word to the owner - I accidentally left behind some clothing that had to be couriered to me. It’s only when something goes wrong that you see how kind and uncomplaining staff/owners are when they are inconvenienced by forgetful guests! I'm sure it was highly inconvenient for the owner but they gave me a brilliant service!||I’ll be staying here again when I’m back in the area - for sure, .....it has...
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