Mercato della terra di Umbertide — Local services in Umbertide

If you're wondering what on earth you're doing in Umbertide, you're not the only one. It lacks the bucket list backdrop for a selfie. It hasn't got a name dropping work of art in a conveniently air-conditioned museum. It doesn't have luxury brand boutiques. It doesn't have tourist tat. Come here at the wrong time of day, or the wrong time of the year, and you'll find it seemingly lifeless.

Umbertide is a town where people live, work, and circulate with clockwork precision. In summer, like you, they go on holiday (to the mountains or the sea). At lunch they go home, causing a tailback snaking from east to west. When the schools stop there's momentary chaos, which then resumes when after school activities necessitate a complex to-ing and fro-ing.

All this provides you the opportunity to experience the real Italy you came here for, what makes the whole place tick. If you haven't guessed yet, it's food, some of the best ingredients you'll find on the planet: organic, local, freshly picked, and endorsed by Slow Food. It's not flashy - it doesn't need to be. Here are a select few stalls you don't want to pass by. This is unmistakable, understated luxury in pure form.

The Saturday mercato della terra (earth market), set in the intimately proportioned main piazza in the historic centre, starts early. Arrive mid morning and you risk finding nothing left. It's an institution amongst those who live here to buy then have time to cook for lunch. It's the antithesis of Borough Market.

The same faces each week fill their shoppers with vegetables, first flitting between the cornucopia stall of Claudio and his daughter, Francesca; then to Orietta's groaning with more intensely hued produce, including beetroot and peaches; then to Antonella's for some of the most photogenically delicious veg you'll set your eyes on; and then to Katia and her children's, with fluffy lettuces, radishes, and exquisite heritage apples, pears, and soft fruit. You have to buy from everyone because otherwise you'll miss out.

How can you come here without buying cheese, ricotta, and yoghurt from both Pina's and Santina's stalls? If you haven't yet tasted the local sheep cheese, you won't understand what you've missed out on. There's also local honey, legumes, cured meats, olive oil, truffles, saffron, and the list goes on. Tonino also sells his traditional hand painted ceramics so you'll have a nice plate or bowl to serve your purchases in.

Luckily you'll find Claudio and Francesca and Tonino at the Wednesday morning market in the car park by the octagonal church, where they are joined by other local growers and producers. Orietta also sells at the Tuesday market in Citta di Castello.

This mercato della terra is the whole point of being here, even if you're just visiting. Once you've seen what the earth really gives us, without chemical intervention, you may find yourself never looking at a supermarket veg again in the same light. This market, and all it stands for, is the standard and everything else lamentably falls short. Unless, of course, you're growing it yourself. Who has given us the most guidance on how? Those who sell in this market. That's the spirit.

The piazza also has a couple of bars where you can get coffee, and a cashpoint. La Rocca bakery, a destination bakery for the whole town, is off a side street. You can also meander along the river bank footpath of the Tiber, which could be in Hampshire except the cypresses are a bit of a giveaway, accessed via the lower level...

Quì si possono trovare prodotti alimentari provenienti direttamente dal coltivatore del posto, cioè a km 0. Verdure, formaggi, vino, olio, miele e altri prodotti artigianali locali. Almeno una volta la settimana (purtroppo solo il sabato mattina) è possibile fare rifornimento di qualcosa di fresco e genuino. Un'iniziativa...

Il mercato della terra a Umbertide si tiene una volta a settimana, di sabato direttamente all’interno delle mura della cittadella umbra. Merita senza dubbio una sosta per poter assaporare i sapori genuini e gustosi che solo questa terra riesce a donare. Appena fuori le mura è presente un comodo e spazioso...