Kawayu onsen — Local services in Tanabe

A PRECIOUS ONSEN JEWEL! As onsen connoisseurs, we booked to stay at Ashita-no-mori as we wanted to have access to the Kawayu Onsen Sennin-buro River Bath throughout our 5-day stay and to visit the UNESCO world heritage Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in  Wakayama Prefecture. Ashita-no-mori is directly opposite the river bath! The owners of Ashita-no-mori are also accommodating and helpful in assisting with directions and even a map.

The Onsen jewel has to be the Sennin-buro. This giant rotenburo (outdoor bath), created by damming the Oto River, measures about 120m (length) by 40m (width). It was rebuilt after it was washed away by a flood when we were there.

We were told that seven ryokans each pay about ¥200,000 to maintain the rotenburo from Dec to Feb. The rotenburo is  available for free to the public and will be adorned with big lanterns in January.

We were very happy to soak ourselves in the rotenburo. In fact we were the first to use the river bath after its rebuild! It was an awesome experience of the palpable confluence of hot and cold spring waters in the rotenburo. We were mesmerised by the fine bubbles of hotspring water rising to the surface and feeling the hotness of the water on our necks and the cooler water on our bodies. An awesome experience indeed!

For those who may be concerned about nudity, you may don your swimsuits under your yukata / clothes. Bring along plentiful of water to stay hydrated, and even your sunshades. :P That was what we did whenever we are there for a long soak.

In between the soaks (good to try it at different times of the day), go and visit the UNESCO world heritage sites.

If you are onsen connoisseurs like us, a must visit is Wataze (aka Watarase) and Yunomine Onsen. Watarase Onsen has the largest segregated rotenburo in Eastern Japan. Meals there are reasonable. With a voucher from Ashita-no-mori,  we paid ¥500 to use Wataze's rotenburo. Remember to bring along your onsen towels!

Do note that even with an English GPS, it may at times be challenging to reach specific destinations. Our fallback was Google maps, hence the importance of having a reliable WiFi router.

Places of interest include Nachi Falls, Tsuboyu in Yunomine Onsen (aka the oldest bath in Japan), Daimon-zaka Slope, and Kumano Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine.

For an excellent view of the Nachi Falls, tallest in Japan, set your GPS for Hiro-jinja Shrine, if you are driving.

Lunch places are readily available in Hongu but the hours are limited ie from 11 am to 2 pm. Many a time we had to make an hour drive to have our meals as we were too caught up enjoying the sights or soaking in the Onsen. 😉 Be...

This is a little gem hidden in the deep mountains of the Kumano Kodo. The locals treasure it and, understandably, don't want many tourists to know about it (in fact, I went there in August and I was the only 'foreigner'). What is really unique about this place is the combination of the cold water of the river stream, and the little pools of hot spring water bubbling to the surface of the riverbed. Relax while soaking in the warm spring water, then refresh yourself with a good swim in the river. Best...

Pure outdoor onson of Japan. Nothing could be more realistic than this free riverside bath. In the correct spot the water is very warm 50-60°C with 4°C water flowing barely a meter away.

A screen seems to have been provided for public use, although it’s not the most discrete way to change bathing clothes. It’s best to be prepared if intending to fully immerse oneself in the bath. Spending at least one full day here is highly...