2023: (4 stars) The menu at The River didnât seem to have changed much in the two years since my last visit. âThereâd be a riot,â our waitress said on our enquiry, going on to explain that the chef tried to take the pork belly off the menu earlier in the year, âbut they didnât like it.â So the crab beignets that formerly came with the scallops this time accompanied three slices of cured yellowfin tuna on a yellow-tinged fennel escabeche ($26) that reminded me of an achar Iâd eaten earlier in the week. It went well with a racy 2023 Onanon Chardonnay ($75) that had just enough butter richness and restrained oak to balance its acidity.
The crab-filled zucchini flower that formerly adorned the swordfish on my last visit had been moved to the scallops ($26) with the crustacean switched out for smoked trout. The lightly cooked roe-off trio of bivalves sat on vividly green pee purĂ©e and parsley oil. This time the thin slab of grilled swordfish ($49) sat on crushed potatoes with more saffron fennel (this time kept whole rather than chopped) and a murky, muted bouillabaisse. With all the colours of Xmas, the duck breast ($51) was the best thing I ate, but you certainly paid dearly for it. The festive plating included grilled nectarines, beetroot puree, hazelnuts, red cabbage âslaw, and golden fondant potatoes with confit duck meat scattered between them. This short and over-priced menu feels like the natural response of a creative chef being hamstrung by an audience who just want to eat the same thing.
2021: (4.5 stars) With grey skies, and a steely grey exterior, the wow moment of walking into The River was magnified. The louvred glass windows look out to the green banks of the Moruya River framed by distant blue mountains. Looking inward, the river also features in a tasteful collection of paintings set over a row of deep blue banquettes. Itâs a good place to kick back with an aperitif, like the pleasantly pink Ruby Collins ($16), and let your eyes go fuzzy as you contemplate the view.
The 2014 Chalkers Crossing Chardonnay ($12) looks quite yellow in the glass, but delivers that classic Tumbarumba elegance in the mouth. Itâs an ideal oyster foil to Glenn Jonesâ Tuross oysters ($22/6), which are savoury and vegetal with a hint of creaminess, enjoyable if not quite as juicy as they might have been shucked to order.
Cured yellowfin tuna ($23) is well accompanied by creamy blobs or avocado purĂ©e and pale noodles of rice-crumbed calamari in a chive and ginger vinaigrette. Smooth cauliflower purĂ©e underlies golden seared scallops ($23) and crunchy crab beignets with a well-dressed Provençale salad and dabs of red pepper aioli for contrast. Theyâre both very good entrees.
Mains here nudge the forty dollar mark, so for lunch we opt to share the fish of the day ($37). Itâs swordfish, a delicate white-fleshed gamefish, perfectly complemented by a buttery lobster veloute. A splash of sweetness from carrot purĂ©e, a little peppery watercress for some green, and a contrasting crisp, crab-filled zucchini flower, make this dish something Iâd like...
   Read moreNestled off the main street in Moruya is the gem. What a delightful dining experience. Booking online made it super easy to choose a spot. The deck overlooks the river, which has lovely view of the water and the opposite bank and hillside in the distance. We opted for the 5 course tasting menu. *see attached picture for each course detail.
It was a substantially quieter night for the restaurant, which did not effect the atmosphere at all. Our waiter was attentive but not overbearing and was helpful with the wine selection. (There is a paired wine option with the 5 course - but one of us had to drive - maybe next time!)
The food was on par with restaurants we've dined in, in cbd Melbourne etc. Everything was exceptionally priced and we couldnt fault anything.
Highly recommend for a special occasion or just wanting a really nice meal out. The tables are a little smaller in thw deck area, so more tables can enjoy the view.
Unsure if I would bring younger kids to this location as its does lend itself to a more adult palate and atmosphere.
Definitely will return next time we are...
   Read moreThis restaurant is the Aria of the South Coast!! Lovely friendly service; no cocky arrogant airs & graces; our server knew the meals very well but hadn't tasted them all so allow me to suggest to the boss that she gives them all a go!! The meals came very quickly they are beautifully plated and tasted absolutely scrumptious!!! Lots of variety to choose from on the menu and you didn't go out feeling hungry and ripped off despite the price being quite high for a country restaurant. It was surprisingly well attended which is well deserved. The price for the tasting menu was a little high for us, but it is still great value if you are really hungry, because we didn't think that we could get through it all so we just went for individual courses, which suited our budget and hunger!! I had the Seared Sea Scallops entree with Cauliflower Puree Smoked Trout Beignettes and Parsley Mayonnaise - just beautiful, cooked to perfection!! We both had the duck which was beautiful and I had the Cinnamon Brulee which was to die for!! You just have to come to this place for a rare culinary...
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