Restaurant L'Assiette Champenoise — Restaurant in Reims

Note: this is the 2022 review amended with the 2025 visit.

16th in my 3 Stars Michelin Marathon, after finishing the Paris

What matters is what’s behind the plate.

So usual question: What’s extraordinary here? It’s not just a name. It’s more. Assiette: it means “plate” in French. So you understand the main subject here will be gastronomy. Interestingly enough, I had the chance to discuss with the chef. I mentioned my different challenges and we exchanged about the fact that the gastronomy, in France, revolves around the “plate”, the dish (in contrast you could say that in Spain it s around the chef), and then you have the chef, the service, the art de vivre, the settings etc… but it centered around the “plate”. Champenoise: From Champagne region. This plate comes from a region. It reflects its product, taste, culinary heritage etc… Here, the honey comes from the garden. The tomatoes also, and the products that don’t come the garden come from a close network of local producers. Because the plate reflects the region and its producers. Speaking of which, you have a wine card with 980 references in Champagne. Lallement : This could have been named “Maison Lallement”(the family name) and it would be justified. But it’s not what they decided. Because they are the bearer of a tradition, an heritage. The heritage of the French gastronomy, and the heritage of the Champagne region. They deliberately choose and kept the restaurant name that focus on the region and the gastronomy but by doing so, they (with his sister, mother and late father ) did make a name for themselves in the French gastronomy.

Lallement fils : The son is carrying the legacy in the kitchen. His cuisine is deeply rooted in his region obviously. But there’s two traits that Chef Arnaud is bringing (not just two but I’ll focus on two).

He’s playing with the acidity extremely well to enhance the beauty. It’s tricky. Because at first it can be a bit unpleasant, acid, etc… but then it makes things actually better. A note of acidity tells you, it’s a bit tough but look how this tomato feels so much better. It’s thanks to this little acid touch that you can fully appreciate the beauty of it. That’s may be the secret of the positiveness of the chef (look at the videos, he has a good energy), not being afraid of using the acidity because it does ultimately makes you appreciate even more the “simple” things in life. It’s really the message I’ve got, for instance with his tomatoes, where you deconstruct the different taste from a tomato and you finish down memory lane. There’s really a soul in his plates. He’s not the only one. Especially in the 3 stars, but there’s a soul there speaking to you. The soul comes from a spirit, a strong will, a strong logic that animates you. In his case, he has a strong drive to always improve. His cuisine is clearly haute French cuisine. He’s not experimental or influenced by any trend. No, he’s embracing his heritage as a French, as a son, and his only motivation it’s to pursue it, and make it better. That’s the second traits. You can see that in his dishes. It’s French, it s grounded locally, it’s haute cuisine but it’s cutting edge. This also can be seen in the design of the rooms. I could not guess when it was refurbished, when usually I’m good at it. I had the explanation when I asked the chef. Every year he’s modifying, adding, suppressing, improving the design of the restaurant. He told me that he could not afford not improving every year. This mind set can be seen everywhere from the plates, the kitchen (that is one of the best I’ve seen), the service (with a dedicated plate for the long standing employee ). Yet again, It’s luxurious not because it shines or looks expensive, it’s luxurious because it feels luxurious, simply when you touch it, simply because of the quality.

The plate is not just the result of a chef, it’s the result of a son, a family, a region, a gastronomic culture looking forward, while knowing exactly where they are coming from.

Very grounded top...

Located on the outskirts of Reims, just a short convenient bus ride from the town center. This charismatic Relais & Chateau property nestles in the middle of an immaculately groomed piece of tranquil estate land. Exuding grace, style and class, the charming premise provides a perfect back-drop for a culinary adventure outing. With sparse TGV train service connecting Reims to Paris on a weekend. Our choice of tasting menu was highly dependent on the anticipated length and ‘duration‘ of the affair. Since only a narrow 3+ hours window was allowed for our meal and hopefully sufficient time for us to catch our return train back to Paris, we opted for the less elaborate option. From a total enjoyment perspective, we would rank this impressive and spectacular meal to be our second most pleasurable and memorable meal of the 3 weeks long European food crawl. ( our number one choice being the rustic Spanish steak dinner at Tolosa, Spain ). Every dish that came out from the talented kitchen was impeccably crafted and executed. Timing of the cooking process was spot-on, resulting in near perfection of all the major ingredients. That stunning Pigeon and Squab Pie, a prime example!....Wow!! A true specimen of masterful culinary art indeed! No wonder the chef decided to cut open the pie in order to show-off the perfect end-result! And those glorious sauces…..the heart and soul of true French Haute Cuisine, absolutely ‘magnifique’, in consistency, texture and taste! IMO, the exceptional cuisine and overall ‘total package‘ experience is definitely worth a...

L’Assiette Champenoise delivers a dining experience that is both refined and welcoming. The elegant dining room provides a relaxed yet polished atmosphere, and the service strikes a good balance between professionalism and warmth, ensuring a comfortable experience.

I chose the White Truffle prix fixe, while my partner opted for the ‘Emotion’ tasting menu with champagne pairings. The presentation of each dish was thoughtful and visually appealing, and the sauces demonstrated a high level of skill and attention to detail.

The champagne selection was excellent, with a variety of memorable options. The sommelier was knowledgeable and generous with her time, adding to the overall enjoyment of the meal.

It was a particularly nice touch that both Chef Arnaud Lallement and his son took the time to stop by our table during the evening. Their presence added a personal element that was much appreciated.

The Normandy scallops and Brittany blue lobster stood out as highlights for me, both beautifully prepared and well-balanced in flavor.

A note for gentlemen: wearing a jacket feels appropriate for the setting, as it complements the effort and thought that goes into the meal. L’Assiette Champenoise is an experience that values both quality and attention to detail, making it well...