For seafood fanatics, GAJALEE, (A branch of the iconic GAJALEE Restaurant at Vile Parle, Mumbai) is the place to head to in Mangalore.

The restaurant is perched on a small hillock, set in an old building in the Govt. Circuit House compound near Kadri Park. The architecture of the building is reminiscent of the Pre-Independence (pillared, tiled and whitewashed) Christian houses of Mangalore.

The main entrance opens out on either side to spacious verandahs where tables are laid out next to large windows. This served as the smoking area and I opted to sit here as it was airy with good views framed by the windows. Further inside, the central hall that housed the bar (now closed down thanks to the “My way or the Highway ruling of the Supreme court) is flanked by two large air-conditioned halls, packed with families in spite of being a weekday afternoon. But overall, the place had an easy, laid-back charm.

Narayan, the waiter was an old hand and happily gave me a tour of the exhaustive menu. You don’t come to Gajalee alone, you need to come in a convoy to do justice here.

I picked a Squid Ghee Fry, a Ladyfish Tava Masala Fry and Neer Dosas.

Unlike the deep fry technique that is common in most Southern kitchens, the Konkan folk fry seafood in a fiery ‘Wet Masala’ that is shallow fried in coconut oil and generously piled on the dish. The masala retains it wetness even when the dish is served. You can wipe the masala off and get the original taste of the fish, or wrap your neer dosa around a chunk of fish and masala (which is what I did) and chew on the deliciousness that just melts away. The squid was soft yet firm, cooked just right. The Ladyfish flaking delicately at every bite. The fluffy Neer Dosas providing just the right accompaniment.

Though the servings were generous, I was ready for another go. As I glanced through the menu again, I noticed the tagline ‘More than just a seafood restaurant’. I asked Narayan what was the best option in the non-seafood range and he pointed to Mutton Dum Biriyani, without even a blink. The biriyani came in a jiffy, dum and all. Narayan opened the pot with a flourish and the smell of the spiced meat wafted out. The mutton was falling off the bone, the long grain rice cooked just right and the spicing to die for. I scraped the pot clean, thanked Narayan and walked out thinking… Seafood and Mutton Biriyani don’t go together, said no one ever. Never at GAJALEE.