Polarizing as any Italian concept that dares to challenge centuries of tradition Lido 84 from Riccardo and Giancarlo Camanini seeks to reinterpret classic recipes as “food for thought” utilizing old and new techniques.
Housed in a former beach club on Lake Garda guests are invited to dine indoors or on a terrace as weather permits, all while Giancarlo oversees service as warm and informative as any in Europe.
Designed to be enjoyed a la carte or as a tasting, staff communicating with each guest to determine likes and preferences before Riccardo chooses the menu, it is amist modern-classical décor that time passes quickly thanks to stories and reminiscing over bites such as Baccala Cannoli or pudding-soft Foccacina.
Eclectic but distinctly Italian, warm Bread and Grissini flavored with Olives present throughout, late-Winter’s “Fluctuations” begins with a veil of Cuttlefish overlying soft Rice in Eel Butter before moving onward to Oysters perfumed by Pine and Buttered Spaghetti made anything but simple by crispy puffed Yeast.
An admirer of all forms of art, books and statues surrounding a piano overlooking the water, Risotto comes splashed on a white canvas with Red Berries prior to intentionally sticky Pennoni meant to be dipped in an emulsion of Uni.
Lucky next to receive 84-hour steamed Pasta allowed to ferment for a year, its texture quite distinct beneath Foie Gras and Pigeon Ragu, Chard offers a bit of levity before moving onward to faultless Sweetbreads sharing the spotlight with Honey and Mustard.
Known best for Cacio e Pepe cooked in a Pig’s Bladder, a blind method of preparation that leaves Pasta firmer than al dente but beautifully matched to simple toppings, tender Beef comes with accents of Duck Fat and Pork Lard plus the bold skins of Sheep’s Cheese.
Offering each guest a different dessert, on this day Chocolate toasted to taste of Burnt Milk and Caramelized Pears with Pumpkin Seed Praline, those with capacity should inquire about adding a laminated “King Size” Cannoncino perfumed by Moroccan Spices with Apricots.
Always pushing forward, with textures and flavors inspiring questions, the story ends with Torrone clipped tableside and a quick tour further seeking to educate those who already think...
Read moreA gravel path led to what looked like someone's garden at the edge of the lake, but we were warmly welcomed and shown to our table, right next to the water with a stunning view.
Presented with menus, we quickly decided on the seven course taster with wine pairing, however, the waiters initial enthusiasm had waned as we were now seemingly abandoned.
Five amuse bouche arrived but no opportunity for a drink. A small flower shaped cracker, a tasty creamy number with orange oil, a dehydrated sage leaf, foccaci and a circular crisp but all slightly underwhelming.
Whilst waiting, we contemplated feeding the ducks with the bread which had arrived absent of butter, olive oil or balsamic which was surely needed to break down the armoured plated doughy bread, even the ducks looked perplexed.
Finally after 45 minutes, our first course arrived, cuttlefish which had been cooked, dried, cubed, recooked and presented under a butter sauce, all of which sounded overly complicated for such a bland outcome, the accompanying wine unusual.
The chef proudly explained the next course which involved cooking at 400degrees, blending with mugo pine vinegar and laurel, all to achieve oyster on toast, which for us was a good oyster ruined.
Signature spaghettone followed with a nice creamy white wine then a black garlic risotto celebrating some unknown Russian artist, but finally offering some semblance of taste.
Whilst the plate went cold, the veal sweetbread was explained in extensive detail but failed to match its introduction.
Finally, the main course, a cheap cut of bavette with its characteristic chewiness accompanied with mash.
Dessert was a collection of pastries, pear and limp biscuits.
We travelled to Lake Garda specifically to experience the seventh wonder of the worlds best restaurants but we are...
Read moreI had been waiting for over a year to book a weekend table at Lido 84, and finally, I managed to secure one with a beautiful terrace seat overlooking Lake Garda.
We chose the 7-course traditional menu, which began with delightful welcome bites. Since I don’t eat oysters, I asked for a replacement and was served a delicate chard wrap instead a thoughtful and well executed alternative. Instead of the wine pairing, we opted for a Franciacorta Rosé, which paired perfectly with the entire meal.
Of course, we couldn’t miss their iconic Cacio e Pepe an absolute must when dining here!
I won’t go into too much detail about every dish (there are already countless photos and reviews online), but the real question is: Was it worth the long wait for a reservation?
Absolutely yes.
These days, there are many restaurants where you can enjoy outstanding food. What makes Lido 84 truly special is not just the cuisine, but the hospitality. The team genuinely understands what hospitality means: warm, attentive, never pretentious. The ambiance, the terrace, the service, the wine, everything came together seamlessly. And I could sense that the staff is treated with respect and care, which reflects in the way they serve and interact with guests.
For me, still on my journey of culinary discovery, Lido 84 stands out as one of the most remarkable dining experiences I’ve ever had. The setting by the lake, the gentle breeze, the impeccable food, the wine, the kindness of the staff, and the company I shared it with, came together to create a memory that goes far beyond a simple meal.
It was, in every sense, more...
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