Hourai Sake Brewer Watanabe Shuzoten — Restaurant in Hida

Critical Sake Commentary: Beyond the Medals, Toward the Meaning

As a trained sake taster and long-time researcher in Japanese traditional culture, I approach regional breweries with a 9:1 ratio of skepticism to hope. Not out of cynicism, but out of respect — for the craft, for the terroir, and for the profound cultural function that sake has long embodied in Japan. When visiting the Hida region, one name inevitably rises to the surface in mainstream coverage: Watanabe Shuzo, makers of the internationally decorated “Horai.” And yet, for those with a deeper palate — and deeper understanding — Horai presents a curious case.

There is no denying that Watanabe Shuzo has mastered the language of modern branding: a wall of gold medals, export-ready polish, tourist-facing charm. But behind the gleaming accolades lies a question worth asking: where is the soul of the brew? In tasting, one finds sake that is technically clean, engineered for broad appeal, and easy to describe — but ultimately difficult to remember. It is sake that performs well, but does not resonate. A synthetic smile, if you will.

True connoisseurs of Japanese culture know that “good” in Japan is often quiet, humble, and uncompromising. This brings us to Kaba Shuzojo, brewers of Shiramayumi — a brewery that rarely seeks the spotlight but consistently commands the respect of those who matter: locals, chefs, and seasoned drinkers.

Kaba’s sake doesn’t seduce the nose with artificial aromatic tricks, nor does it chase after easy sweetness. Instead, it offers structure, restraint, and depth — a reflection of both nature and character. The umami is layered and textural. The finish is philosophical: long, clean, contemplative. You don’t simply drink Shiramayumi — you converse with it.

Visiting the Kaba brewery is like stepping into a conversation about ethics. About water, timing, labor, and the refusal to compromise. The artisans will not flatter you, but if you listen carefully, you’ll hear a story of generations — told not in English, but in fermentation.

So if your understanding of sake is guided by international awards and Instagrammable labels, Watanabe may suffice. But if your curiosity is driven by substance, patience, and a reverence for regional depth, then Kaba Shuzojo is the name you need to remember.

For those who have already gone beyond sushi, beyond kimonos, beyond bullet trains — and now seek to understand Japan through its silences — this is where your glass...

I stopped by Hourai Sake Brewer Watanabe Shuzoten (渡辺酒造店) and got to try both the free samples and the paid tasting set. The staff were friendly and helpful, explaining the differences between each sake. The tasting selection offered a nice range, from crisp, light options to richer, full-bodied flavors. Their signature sake had a smooth finish with a balanced sweetness. Cozy atmosphere and traditional brewery feel made the experience even better. Highly recommend for anyone interested...

Watanabe is the best sake brewery I know! It’s located in the beautiful scenery of Hida. It’s a small town with a lot of nature around it. The sake from Watanabe comes in a wide range. From standard well balanced to a perfect Daiginjo they have it all! You can taste the rice in the sake. All of the worker are super friendly and will help you with all your questions. It’s a must to see this brewery if you like sake. They have a lovely tasting room where you can try all...