L'Atelier par Yao — Restaurant in Taichung

IG: @jojo_gourmand

High-contrast lighting suits this compact, modern French restaurant with its clean, understated elegance. L’Atelier par Yao excels in using local ingredients to create the type of French cuisine you can only experience in Taiwan.

Striped jack with white asparagus hollandaise imparts a rich, but clean sweetness. The mushroom and nut jus pushes the chou farci into another league—though its sculpted presentation already grabs attention. Turbot in beurre blanc practically demands that you wipe the plate clean.

A small gripe: nearly every dish leans on an acidic aftertaste. It keeps things bright, but eventually I found myself wanting a detour—something unexpected to break the rhythm.

🗺️ French Contemporary ⭐️ Michelin...

託各方社會賢達的福，來到由未滿30的年輕主廚Yao領軍，默默在台中太平開業近一年的L'Atelier par Yao。

以下是食記— 迎賓飲品：台中才有的羅氏秋水茶，薄荷、仙草、烏龍茶，有一點龍角散的味道，也會聯想起王老吉😆

開胃菜Amuse Bouche：無花果Fig｜無花果葉Fig granita｜瑞可塔Ricotta 底部是ricotta，中間是新鮮無花果，上方是無花果葉冰沙和乾燥無花果葉粉末。底部塔皮帶來焦糖風味，有著新鮮無花果香，來自cheese的奶油柔滑感，冰沙賦予這道小點清爽的結尾

開胃菜Amuse Bouche：胭脂蝦Red shrimp｜法氏酥盒Vol au Vent｜鱒魚卵Trout roe 鮮美的一道開胃小點，酥脆的派皮盛裝著蝦和魚卵，滿滿的鹹鮮感，綴以有著芥末風味的金蓮葉平衡整個小點

開胃菜Amuse Bouche：俄羅斯鬆餅Blinis｜鹿肉韃靼Venison tartare｜柚子胡椒Yuzukosho 來自紐西蘭的鹿肉做成韃靼，以柚子胡椒調味，飾以紫蘇花，擺在迷你鬆餅上，肉味滿滿的一道，好想偷渡Mortlach去喝一口🤣🤣🤣

麵包籃：搭配四種胡椒艾許奶油 來自台北Moon Baking的麵包，右邊是做成麥穗形狀的法國麵包，左邊是圓柱狀有點肉桂風味的可頌，兩個都不錯，可以留一些法國麵包沾下一道菜的醬汁

前菜Entrée：竹葉魽Shimaaji｜青蘋果Granny Smith｜香草Herbs sabayon 日本白魽以昆布熟成，用了青蘋果、薄荷、香菜苗、蝦夷蔥油，再放上法國魚子醬以及沙巴雍醬。底層有著堅果的風味，奶油柔滑的口感，蔥油和香菜苗帶出清新感，綠蘋果帶來酸度，平衡魚肉和魚子醬的鹹鮮

前菜Entrée：每日肉凍Pâté en Croûte｜茉莉花Jasmine｜醃漬蔬菜Pickled 以來自嘉義的黑鵝和豬做成肉凍，加上一些開心果和豬油、胡椒、香料，搭配松露肉汁以及漬物（甜菜根醃漬的珍珠洋蔥、茉莉花、酸黃瓜、小黃瓜花）。肉味也很濃郁的一道，可以嚐到豬肉和鵝肉的纖維，但不乾柴帶點油脂，派皮有點厚度有著麵團的紮實感，有胡椒、肉桂的香料味。一旁搭配漬物，有去油解膩的效果，茉莉花的漬物特別吸引我，帶點奶香又散發著花朵香氣，同時帶有酸度可以增添肉凍更多層次風味。

前菜Entrée：海膽Sea urchin｜青花菜Broccoli｜蒸蛋Chawanmushi 綿密柔滑的花椰菜蒸蛋，上面淋了味醂醬汁和蝦夷蔥，再擺上日本海膽，一口要嚐到全部的元素，令人欲罷不能的一道，有著奶香的細緻蒸蛋配上略甜的醬汁和鮮美的海膽，ㄧ吃就無法停下來😋

海鮮Fruit de mer：鮑魚Abalone｜日本甜蔥Poireau｜山葵奶油醬汁Sauce wasabi 舒肥15小時後碳烤的南非鮑魚，襯以蛤蜊、鮑魚角、蔥白蔥綠做成的奶油醬汁，再加上山葵泡泡，令人讚嘆的一道海鮮！從來都不愛鮑魚的我也為之折服。用備長炭碳烤鮑魚火候超難掌控，佩服chef Yao對這道菜熟度的掌握，加了蛤蜊肉和鮑魚角與奶油、甜蔥做成的醬汁，滿滿的鮮味以外還有奶油的柔滑及蔥的甜味，最後再以山葵泡泡帶點辛香感收尾，很美味👍

主菜Viande：玫瑰鴨Duck｜甜菜根Beetroot｜鴨肉醬汁Jus de Viande 以備長炭烤經過兩週熟成來自彰化芳苑的玫瑰鴨，搭配甜菜根泥、加了鴨皮熬製的醬汁，以及添加法氏咖哩粉、飾以山當歸花、紫色酢漿草的千層甜菜根塔。鴨肉熟度也處理的很好，現場備有鋒利的餐刀，可以輕易分切成適口大小。醬汁對我來說口味有點重，只能酌量沾一些，再搭配一點輕盈的甜菜根泥，讓鹹鮮的鴨肉增添一抹花生奶油醬的風味。

但是一旁搭配看起來很費工的千層甜菜根塔，實在太搶味了，直接留在最後才吃，甜菜根的味道太重會壓過鴨肉，有點可惜。

山當歸花嚐起來是芹菜的味道😆

前甜點Pré-dessert：布里起司Brie cheese｜咸豐草蜂蜜Miel｜李子Plum 這道Pre-dessert是我當天最失望的一個，看起來很單薄，風味不凸出，沒有記憶點。在Brie裡夾了白巧克力和Camembert，有點難嚐出來各自的味道，搭配蜂蜜和水果雖然很安全，加上擺盤的方式，實在有點難欣賞它🥹

甜點Dessert：香蕉Banana｜焦糖Dulce de Leche｜可可Cacao 可可脆片為底，疊上香蕉冰淇淋、太妃糖泡泡、海鹽、黑糖粉，比上一個小點好，我還是喜歡這種鹹甜風格的甜點，就風味組合來說沒有出錯，但是可以想像得到，希望chef可以研發更多有趣的甜點面世

茶點Mignardises：可以選現沖香草茶或者咖啡搭配茶點，有加了核桃的mini...

An impressive and delightful French restaurant — I’d definitely want to come back again and again!

There’s a parking lot right downstairs, and the staff will come greet you and guide you up. You’ll wait briefly on the first floor before being taken to your seat upstairs. The overall vibe is modern and elegant.

They’ve created a special printed menu and a little color-coded card that hints at the flavor profile of each dish — some sour, some sweet, and so on. You can take a look at it before the courses begin, and it adds a playful, interactive touch to the whole experience.

The tasting menu includes so many courses that I honestly lost count. But every single dish was a hit — delicious, beautifully presented, and full of thoughtful creativity. It’s modern French cuisine at its best, capturing that whimsical, playful French spirit through the food. I loved it. Even the bread left a deep impression on me — so fluffy yet crispy at the same time. I still can’t figure out how they pulled that off!

One standout was the roasted duck. When it arrived, it looked perfectly golden and juicy, with crispy skin. But surprisingly, the chef only served one specific part, cut into small slices. It made me wonder where the rest of the duck went — it was so delicious I definitely wanted more!

Since I was driving, I didn’t go for the wine pairing this time — but next time, I absolutely will. This is the kind of restaurant that makes you smile without realizing it. You leave feeling satisfied, both in taste and in portion — just the right amount.

很驚艷的一家法餐，會想一直再來！樓下有停車場，服務員會下去帶位。會先在一樓等待一小會，然後帶上二樓的坐位。整體風格現代。

有製作專門的菜單和小卡，用不同的顏色的小點展示出那個餐點的口味，有些酸的、有些甜的、以此類推。在餐還沒來之前可以先看看，蠻有趣味的。tasting 的course...