Makhani Indian restaurant — Restaurant in Bedford

Makhani is one of a dozen new-ish Indian restaurants to grace our fair city. Some are good, some bad, many different. Makhani, as I recall, once housed a Thai spot in Sunnyside Mall, and the decor is definitely more Bangkok than Bombay—but that's where the similarities end.

With its own entrance to the parking lot, it offers plenty of banquet seating suitable for parties of four. I dined there for lunch on a Monday, and it was particularly sparse, save for the property developers to my left who eagerly debated the merits of razing the former Sunnyside across the street, long shuttered after the floods of 2022.

The lunch menu is limited to four choices, though full menu options are available. Butter chicken, chana masala, dahl makhani, and a butter chicken bowl with salad range from $8.99 to $12.99.

Counter service was as warm as the tandoor oven that surrounded the chef, who dutifully tended to the naan—not often found in shopping mall food courts, let alone many standalone Indian establishments. Nothing is more disappointing when ordering Indian than seeing that sad Costco flatbread arrive at your table, an unwanted dinner guest and an even more unwanted accompaniment to your meal.

I've always been a fan of dahl makhani. I've had some good ones and even more bad ones. Looking at this recipe on paper, it may seem utterly simple, but the simplicity ends there. The name translates to "buttery lentil," and the dish they serve is truly in line with the brief. Makhani makes theirs with black lentils, though I've had it with red kidney beans and prefer the latter. Traditionally served at special occasions, a Monday at the mall while meeting with my boy's orthodontist tends to be a far more expensive experience.

Slow-cooked, the starches were clearly released over a long simmer—the luscious creaminess emerging like a butterfly from a cocoon. Topped with ghee, every bite was a party I gladly accepted an invitation to. The cumin, ginger, and garam masala were clearly high quality and added complex layers to the dish. The serving is small, but the quality eclipses the portion size, though it's not long before you're left wanting more.

The pleasure doesn't end there, however, as the naan had been teasing the air with its aroma. The naan was ethereal—pillowy char mountains from the heat of the tandoor rising like the sun on an early spring morning. Each piece tore delightfully as it dove into the pool of its next-door neighbor; both now realized they had more in common than they ever thought and were always destined to be best friends. Bathed in ghee, one must forget that this is an experience seldom found in shopping malls, let alone the kitchens of Delhi.

Though inspired by traditional lentil dishes, the modern version is credited to Kundan Lal Gujral, founder of the Moti Mahal restaurant in Delhi, in the mid-20th century. He also reportedly invented butter chicken. For $17 with a Diet Coke, it seems like a crime—but one I'd gladly go...

Some time ago we had a craving for a good butter chicken, and while away for a weekend found a tucked away place out of province. The food there was fantastic, so it left us keen to find something here in the city that would scratch the itch in the future.

Makhani was recommended to us by a friend, but after having tried a couple other disappointing options locally, we went in a little hesitant, though eager to try.

The very first visit was alright. Everything was middle of the road for our foray into Indian food, but the atmosphere was inviting, so we made the decision that we'd come back again for a second attempt.

Best decision by far.

On the second visit, we were immediately greeted by the owner, and the smiling faces of the staff. They offered various spice options, something missing from the first visit, and as someone who loves spicier foods, this made a world of difference. The atmosphere we had loved remained, but unlike the generic local music of the first visit, we got to enjoy cultural music, which very much elevates the immersion.

Since then we have made it a point to visit at least every other week, if not weekly when it permits. The owner remains ever welcoming, and his eagerness and passion for hospitality is unmatched. The familiarity formed leaves you feeling as though you're visiting family for a meal, and for me that alone is worth the trip.

An absolute 10 out of 5 experience, and I couldn't recommend...

I am a Google Local Guide ... believe the reviews, the food here is amazing! We went as a couple on a quiet Wed evening and we tried many of the dishes, knowing we could take home whatever we couldn't finish! See the pics*. The food was freshly cooked in an open kitchen, and each dish had unique incredible flavours. They asked us what spice level we preferred, that's a nice touch. As an appetizer the Hariyali Kebab was extraordinary. Then the Laal Maas (lamb) was one of the best curries we have ever had, and we are curry connoisseurs! The naan and roti were also superb. Everything was perfect. Our server was friendly, and the chef came out to make sure the food was to our liking. This restaurant is more like a café than a proper restaurant but hey that's more authentic and less pretentious, and it keeps their prices down. We will be back very soon! Don't be put off by the prices in the receipt pic, we deliberately ordered far more than we could eat so that we could try many dishes, and we have plenty left over for at least one more meal! You can see that each dish is...