Visited July 10, 2025 – Day 7 in India
After staying at Niraamaya Samsara in Athirapally and visiting the breathtaking Athirapally Waterfall, we made our way to Kumarakom. Before checking into the Niraamaya Backwaters resort, I had one personal request: to eat at a toddy shop.
As a long-time fan of Anthony Bourdain, I remember watching his Kerala episode where he visited a toddy shop and stayed on a houseboat in the backwaters. Ever since then, these two things became a must-do for me. But unlike Bourdain, who traveled solo with a crew, we’re parents of two young girls (5 and 7 years old), so their health and safety were our top priorities.
I shared my request with our driver Rajilesh, who had been with us throughout Kerala. I told him I wanted to experience a toddy shop but only if it was clean and had AC. He immediately knew the perfect place—and he was absolutely right.
Kilikkoodu Family Restaurant is super charming. Rajilesh explained that "kilikkoodu" means bird’s nest, and the restaurant is designed just like that, with small individual rooms that look like bird nests. We were escorted to one of their two air-conditioned rooms, which was ideal for our family.
Although I don’t drink alcohol, my husband and Rajilesh tried the toddy. It was brought in a traditional clay container, and we were both surprised by the quantity—it wasn’t just a small cup! My husband said it was an acquired taste at first, but he ended up really enjoying it.
Here’s what we ordered:
Fried fish (snakehead) with no spice for our 7-year-old Jumbo prawn with no spice for our 5-year-old Fish wrapped in banana leaf (I think it was Karimeen Pollichathu) Pork roast Curry duck (x2) for me and Rajilesh 4 porottas Kerala rice
The food was incredible. It was everything I had dreamed of—packed with flavor, cooked perfectly, and deeply satisfying.
Our younger daughter devoured her giant prawn and asked for more. My husband loved the banana-leaf-wrapped fish and polished off his plate. I couldn’t get enough of the curry duck and pork roast with rice. It was one of those meals where every bite is memorable.
Thank you to the team at Kilikkoodu and to Rajilesh for making this experience possible. It was truly special—authentic, safe for our little ones, and absolutely delicious. Highly recommend to anyone looking for a local food experience that doesn’t compromise on...
Read moreIf your travels bring you to Kumarakom, look no further than Kilikoodu Toddy Shop and Family Restaurant for an authentic dining experience. This bustling spot is a favorite among both locals and visitors, and it's easy to see why – the toddy shop curries are simply a delight for anyone, be it families or a group of friends.
Not only do they serve traditional toddy, but the meals are also a hearty celebration of local flavors with options like fish, crab, and pork. Each dish tells a story of freshness and regional cuisine – the Karri fish fry is a showstopper with three generous pieces that you simply must try. It was truly a standout for me.
On to the crab, the taste was strikingly different from what I'm used to, yet absolutely amazing. The pork fry with coconut pieces captured the essence of Kerala on a plate, and the fish curry? Just mix it into your rice for a mouthwatering experience that you'll hanker to relive.
Aside from the food, the restaurant offers ample parking space, which is often a godsend in busy spots. The AC dining rooms are comfortable for those who prefer a cooler environment, while the traditional toddy shop rooms and the quaint small huts provide an immersive cultural experience.
It's clear why this place comes highly recommended for a lunch stop in Kumarakom. Just a heads up – its popularity means it's usually crowded during lunch, but that's a testament to its authenticity and the high-quality...
Read moreA beautiful hideaway on the calm backwaters called Kilikoodu offers an experience that is both a culinary adventure and a calming getaway for the soul. In a location that immerses you in the grandeur of nature, this business combines the special delights of toddy with superb village-style seafood cuisine.
The menu at Kilikoodu is a testament to the bounties of the sea. From succulent fish curries to perfectly spiced crab preparations, each dish is a celebration of the freshest catches and the region's culinary prowess. The flavors are robust and authentic, taking your taste buds on an unforgettable journey through Kerala's coastal traditions. A culinary adventure and a spiritual retreat are both available at Kilikoodu, a stunning refuge on the serene backwaters. This establishment blends the unique delights of toddy with excellent village-style seafood meals in a setting that completely envelopes you in the magnificence of nature.
In conclusion, Kilikoodu is a gastronomic treasure that offers a special fusion of seafood delicacies, toddy, and a backwater setting that is both energising and tranquil. Kilikoodu is the ideal location if you're ready to splurge a little for an experience that feeds your senses and...
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