Lucknowi zaika — Restaurant in Madhya Pradesh

Chappan dukan means 56 shops. This is a street with 56 shops on both sides of the street. All the shops sell food. So this is a created food street.

We could not remember too many other streets similar to this other than  Jama Masjid old delhi  Bhopal or kolkata. However all of these are accidental food lanes – not designed that way.

There were Unbelievable number of people in the market.

Good that there were garbage bins in the area. Unlike anywhere else, the municipal garbage collection trucks were collecting extra trash in the evening Also. No wonder I was reading the other day that indore has been voted the cleanest city.

Chhappan dukaan. We started with johny hot dog. I don’t know if the owners name is johny or he named it after a similar sounding shop in say NY. When our hosts suggested that we go here, we were just not sure that we wanted some non indore food in indore!!!!

Our initial inhibition also came from the fact that 99% of hot dogs I have had in india are pathetic (tasteless flavourless bland chicken machine paste chicken sausages in between ridiculously low quality bread , topped with general ketchups and sauces) and they are a ‘gaali’ to the real American hot dog.

We moved on to the next shop in chhappan dukan – vijay chaat house which has been in business since 1969. Like The owner of johny hot dog, I saw the owner of this shop himself frying the pattice and Bhajia. He was wearing a spotless white crisp cotton kurta pajama. Looking at how he maintained his lean figure, we were guessing that he hardly eats what he sells:) The options in food were mostly street food of north india, west , central and also few from south india. Some unique to indore dishes were also there.

This food street also remains open beyond midnight. The sheer amount of people in the street in the night even at 1130 pm was unbelievable. At times it felt that we were not walking according to our wish but where the crowd was taking us.

We started with bhutte ki kees. This is a unique indore dish that is made by cooking Bhutta (corn) with milk and spices. Very different, very tasty – it has flavours of corn, spices. Has a hint of chilly, a touch of sweet ( from corn), a hint of sour from lemon that was squeezed on top), a super nice chatpata...

Our extended family members were here and they expressed their desire to explore Indore and its specialities. We took them to some selected places, but how could we not take them to Chappan Dukan which makes Indore world famous for the delicacies served here.

We reached there at 8 p.m. and incidentally, it was Valentine's Day. The entire place was crowded with young couples. But the challenge was that the entire place was digged and huge holes were left open. Moreover, the bent long iron rods were lying scattered all around. There was a lot of dust and we had to be cautious to move around as we had some elderly people as well.

However, this difficulty could not fade away the taste of delicious snacks. We started our food trip with Johnny Hot Dog. It serves non-vegetarian hot dogs as well, but we settled for vegetarian hot dogs. It was more like burger served with chutnis and the taste was amazing.

From there, we reached Prakash Namkeen where we bought packets of laung, lehsun sev which add flavour in the lives of its consumers. It was now the turn of Vijay Chaat House where we had patties followed by Shikanji. Do not confuse patties with regular patties as it was a round ball made of potato and stuffed with grated coconut. Shikanji was a thick liquid with rabri, dry fruits mixed well. It was really filling.

We crossed the road and came to Mau Kulfi. We had a plate of kesar pista matka kulfi and then rabri malai matka kulfi. The taste was great. They also serve great Pao Bhaji, but we were stuffed. There are a few shops that sell various types of flowers and different kinds and designs of bouquets.

It is advisable to take a cab or an auto to reach this place. Moreover, a two-wheeler is still fine, but parking space for four wheelers is a challenge especially during weekends and holidays.

We suggest that you reach by 7.30-7.45 p.m. as the food outlets start getting closed by 9.30 p.m. or so. Moreover, some of the famous food outlets have their food stock exhausted by 9.00 p.m.

Visit Chappan whenever you are at Indore else your visit will be deemed as incomplete. And yes, you may not find exact 56 food outlets....

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