Sushi Mukau — Restaurant in Tokyo

Chef Oyama was a very fond and influential figure in the F&B scene of Shanghai China, once a desert with practically no omakase at all in the early 2000s. Located in an upscale area in the city, Donghu Huaihai intersection, Sushi Oyama was the first real omakase experience brought to many of the locals and expats. Even with the “First mover advantage”, it was immensely tough to get hold of premium catch more than a decade ago, being one of the most expensive Japanese restaurant in the city at the time, Oyama was able meet the expectations of many well traveled foodies who then become regulars for a decade to come. Since Oyama’s departure a few years ago, many of Oyama’s apprentices would then on open their own sushi places, few even gained so much popularity and required a deposit before visit. When I heard Oyama was opening his new place in Tokyo, I was thrilled to visit. Sushi Mukau is located in a nice and quiet neighborhood in Shirokane, Minato City. This area is known to have many famous high-end restaurants. Once you’ve opened the seemingly cold and wabisabi looking slide door, be prepared to immerse yourself in a night of Oyama’s infectious laughter and an unconventionally casual omakase atmosphere. The texture of the shari, rice of nigiri, was cooked to perfectly al dente while holding together nicely. The season of the shari leans more towards sourness, consisting primarily red vinegar. My personal favorite was kohada, a type of small silver skinned fish marinated in vinegar, the sourness of the shari with the fishiness was such a debauchery on the tongue, mesmerising indeed. The Chawanmushi (Steamed egg custard) has to be an honourable mention, the layer of lobster bisque and dashi (soup stock) was just genius. Be sure to propose a shot to Oyama if he’s not too occupied towards the end, neither you or him would resist to say no after a great meal and conversation. The post pandemic Japan took its time to regain vitality while Oyama took no time. He always carries this pleasant aura while chatting with his guests loudly in English, Mandarin and Japanese. Mukau 無何有, the name of this place, was a phrase first mentioned by ancient Chinese philosopher Zhuangzi. Mukau no sato or 無何有之鄉 essentially means a land of nothingness. Zhuangzi was portraying his utopia of a wide and barren land with a tree might otherwise be seen as useless to saunter by. We live in a world where we are so eager to deem things worthiness or usefulness. Getting tipsy in a sushi joint alone is probably what my Asian parents seen as useless and meaningless indulgence. For me, it is the perfect idea of Mukau no sato in Tokyo. Sushi Mukau is a rising gem in Tokyo which I’m...

I was called a gaijin as we entered, one time, I'll let it slide since it's my fault for speaking english when I entered. Paid 24,000 yen for the dinner course and was served by an apprentice, which isn't what the website stated. The apprentice was pleasant as was the food, I have 0 complaints about him. What really irked me was the chef in glasses who was in charge that day. After being seated we explained that we had a 6th person who was unable to come due to an injury snowboarding, and if it was okay with the chef we'd like to share his portion since tabelog doesn't allow changes to the reservation less than a day in advance. (we did try calling on sunday, messaged them on instagram and facebook which didn't yield any responses) They said okay and we began dinner service. The chef assigned to us prepped a 6th plate for the first dish before the chef with glasses came out and asked him what he was doing before throwing the dish out. The rest of the dinner went on as normal, at the end I'd assumed they were only going to charge us for 5 because of what they'd done earlier, but instead they kept the tab the exact same, upcharging us for the mukau course despite being served by the junior. When I translated a message and asking the head chef to explain he again walked away and I could hear him calling us Gaijin again multiple times. He came out with a piece of paper that said "sorry tabelog" and read it to me out loud. It was an insulting experience and an absolute embarrassment to be called out like that after recommending all my friends to what I'd assured them would be a fantastic meal. I understand that we're just tourists but do not deny me my dignity. I did not pay over 1000 USD just to be treated...

白金高輪の夜は、九月最後の帳が降りてなお柔らかい。公園の木々はわずかに色を変え、茂みからは虫の音が規則正しく響く。汗ばむこともなく、冷え込むわけでもない。歩を進めるたび、秋こそが一年で最も均衡の取れた季節だと、誰に言われずとも理解できるのだった。

白金高輪の住宅街に、人目を忍ぶように佇む「鮨 無何有」。 扉をくぐれば、九席のみの静謐な舞台が広がる。白木の一枚カウンター、石張りの壁、黒を基調とした設え。無駄を削ぎ落とした空間には、料理人の一挙手一投足が鮮やかに映えるという。 ここでは「地と旬」「和と差」「香りと余韻」を柱に、漁師直結の魚を血抜きと神経締めで磨き上げ、米は仁多米を選び抜く。赤酢と米酢を使い分ける繊細な勘が、握り一貫を一期一会の物語へと昇華させるらしい。

「鮨 無何有」の店名は、無から有を生み出すという哲学に由来する。何もない状態から、素材の個性と職人の技が重なり、一貫の鮨という形に昇華される。まるでゼロから一を創り出すようなプロセスが、訪れる者に特別な体験を届ける場として、この店の存在意義を象徴している。

本日は以下のコースをいただいた。

●無何有コース（21品）

◇いくらのカッペリーニ 宝石のようないくらが、和の香りを纏った大葉の余韻と絡み、涼やかに舌を駆け抜ける。

◇かぼちゃのすり流し バターナッツの甘みが絹のように広がり、落花生の香ばしさが余白を美しく満たす

◇メジマグロの造り 藁の香が淡紅の身に潜り、炙りの香ばしさと地がらしの辛香が、初秋の風のように駆け抜ける。

◇ 神経〆トキシラズと半熟いくらの腹子巻き 半熟のいくらが舌の上でとろけ、香ばしく焼かれたトキシラズがその甘みを抱きとめる。海の滋味と火の香が溶け合い、ひと口で秋の記憶が蘇るような贅沢な一巻。

◇ライム香る岩水雲と秋田蓴菜 紅ズワイガニの酢の物 岩モズクの歯ざわりが涼を呼び、紅ズワイの甘みとライムの酸が重なり合う。秋の入口にふさわしい一皿。

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