ELKANO — Restaurant in Getaria

Difficult to ccmment on a place about which so much has already been said. If the experience here does not demonstrate the Basque mastery of all things grilled and all things restaurant, nothing does.

Even if some Iparralde grills of the most traditional kind, such as Arrantzaleak in Ciboure, approximate to these standards, the French side is light years away from Hegoaldean / Spanish nirvana. That is, what you find in places like Bizkaian Etxebarri or Elkano here (see also Xixario in Orio for another beautiful, more informal and maybe less famous example).

We come on a day when they don't have any specials, and some highlights (those grilled salmonetes that I've seen lovely pictures of) are also absent. On top of that, my partner does not want to check on the rodaballo (which seems to be a key treasure here, according to what I've heard). But all in all the experience is extremely pleasant.

We have lenguado for 3 (that we share for the 4 of us, 2 adults + 2 kids). And we previously take a beautiful baked txangurro (centollo) and some pimientos asados which may be not so elegant as the ones in La Manduca (Madrid), but are quite as good as those (and come at about 1/3 of the price).

The lenguado is wonderful. Some may (rightly) think that Lenguado Evaristo at El Pescador or Filandón in Madrid is the best one you can possibly have. But (to me) this is even better. I find myself checking on the remains (that they kindly leave on the table after preparing the four "clean" portions) for an extra fix...

Service is absolutely elegant and correct, as one would expect in a top class place. And atmosphere is eclectic tonight. This is becoming a very famous place and that may drive customer mix a bit towards the business segment (a pity, but that's reality). However, there are also couples here, including young, Basque speaking customers. A sign that the restaurant remains quite integrated with the environment (a walk around Getaria afterwards reveals one of the most intensively Euskaldun villages that I have ever seen).

We pay around €55 / head, definitely not expensive for this level, and including a glass of red Rioja and two bottles of beautiful Bob's Beer from Hasparren that I already drunk at St Jean de Luz the day before (at Piper Beltz). This also includes two incredibly good desserts that we share (crema de queso con helado de nata y nueces and tarta de chocolate con helado de vainilla).

All in all, one of the key Asadores (in the world), together with (of course) Etxebarri, Xixario (clearly more informal, but I really love it!) and possibly (to be checked in a few days) Güeyu Mar in Ribadesella or even Kaipe (also in Getaria, I leave it for the next time). I've also heard about some Swedish joint (Ekstedt) where I should go at some time in the future (but that's more...

The level of devotion to the art of fishing that ELKANO projects is definitely received to the lucky guests. This is an almost 70 years old business that is not trying to invent lukewarm water and doesn’t feel old or rusty. The food is simple and honest with the absolute best ingredients that the sea (the Maritime Republic as Aitor, the owner, calls it) and the land. They do not stop mentioning how the fish swim, where do they like to be, what do they eat, why do they have in that are that colour of skin. The biological research that there is behind is quite incredible. How they express it and make you want to research yourself and study more is actually outstanding. The service is very good, not uptight at all, but very attentive. 0 parafernalia and at the same time close and warm but with elegance. The wine list is beautiful, the right length, showing very small producers, and putting a big accent on natural wine. Nico is in charge of the wines and he is just so kind and sweet, he chose two fab wines for the meal. He rapidly got our style and taste and nailed it with both wines. The knowledge and homage put into the fishermen, how important is their work and how much we need more restaurants talking about this. Because we need to show more respect to our fishermen to catch fish in a sustainable way so the seas are not empty, there is a good balance and also the job of fishermen are protected and more honourable. Aitor today talked about history, how the way they cooked has been the way food is cooked for so so long. How Juan Sebastian Elcano that was born in Getaria did the first around the world trip and actually came back. They would cook with charcoal on the ship and this is the origin of the concept of the restaurant. Also how Juan Sebastian Elcano left from Cádiz and actually ELKANO decided a few years ago to open a restaurant there, called Cataria. I can’t wait to visit them again and also visit Cataria. Well done, I normally don’t really enjoy fully fine dining because it normally is very outdated and boring and most of the times is more of a show than anything else. But today, with this 1 star Michelin restaurant, that is so humble and perfect, that really they don’t think that are so important although they are, just shows me that most Michelin star restaurants have lost it and they might need to work on their egos and learn...

Elkano is not just a restaurant, it’s an experience that honors both the sea and fire. One Michelin star and ranked among the world’s 50 best restaurants, yet it remains deeply rooted in Getaria’s fishing tradition.

The meal began deceptively humbly with a clear fish soup. At first glance it looks light and simple, but the flavor is bold, earthy, almost meaty thanks to the charred fish base. Clean and powerful, the perfect palate opener.

But the real star is the whole turbot, grilled over coals and presented part by part. Elkano teaches you to savor the fish as a map: from the delicate loins to the silky belly, the rich collar, the gelatinous skin and fins, even the hidden treasures like the jowls and bone marrow. Every bite has its own character. Delicate, savory, or intensely marine. It’s not just eating fish, it’s learning to appreciate the animal in its entirety.

And just when you think the story is over, dessert arrives. The hazelnut coulant was a completely unexpected wonder. Oozing, deeply nutty, perfectly balanced with salt flakes. Honestly the best dessert I’ve had this year, and easily in my all-time top five. (Yes, I ordered a second.)

Service is warm, knowledgeable, and guides you through the experience without pretension. The setting in the small fishing village of Getaria, birthplace of Juan Sebastián Elcano, only adds to the sense of history and tradition.

Elkano is worth every detour. It’s a restaurant that redefines how you think about fish, and one of the most memorable meals...