Gloria - Esther y Nacho Manzano — Restaurant in Oviedo

As pretty much close to perfect as you will find. Now, not quite perfect it must be said. The flaw in the jewel are the two tables in the front part of the restaurant that are separated from the main body by a central bar and have a very over-lit cafe feel to them compared to the richer, darker, more intimate experience that lies beyond. This slightly flat anteroom is where we got sat and I have to admit to being a little - well very - disappointed. But this is where the restaurant and, more specifically Joanna, the maitre d’ extraordinaire, really kicked in. The service immediately wins you over. Joanna’s warmth and manner are another level - she made us (a family of five - two adults and three teenagers fresh into town) feel like long lost friends (clearly she makes others feel the same given the sheer number of guests that greeted her warmly as they came in and still others she made a bee-line to bid farewell to as they left). Whatever happened to this sort of hospitality? Her waiting colleagues were quietly proficient and no less knowledgeable about every aspect of the menu. And the menu was stellar. Every plate of every course was flawless. Pick anything. Anything at all and I guarantee you it is best in class. From scallop starters as soft as cotton wool to an Asturian cheeseboard as rich as Croesus. And here’s why Gloria’s rates as one of the best restaurants I have ever had the pleasure of going to…. I had travelled a long way to visit this place and was a little crestfallen to be sat in the front section (see moaning above) - the more so when we were left to eat in there alone when the other table left, whistfully listening to the jollity of the other guests beyond - but Joanna to the rescue as she moved us to the rear for our deserts and the full Gloria treatment once a table came free. It’s little things like that - a genuine passion for people and their experience - that sets restaurants apart. And it is Joanna, her colleagues and the remarkable Gloria chefs that have this place in a league of its own. Go. It’s superb (save, perhaps,...

We ate here twice during our three day trip to Oviedo. I waited to write the review after our second visit to try even more menu choices and ensure that the service and the food was as wonderful on the second visit as the first. First visit, we had the fried artichokes and the special that week, sardines “nigiri”; these were sardines on a potato base with a wasabi paste. I admit, I had two oysters which were fab. Then the nem which was pork belly with shrimp and lovely herbs with a bit of spice. For dinner, we finished with the crab (Centollo) which had a nice level of spice and very rich with cream. We shared the lemon pie as I was also having a lovely porto. Two nights later we returned. This time we started with the eggplant (berenjenas a la llama sobrasada) which was incredible take off of baba ghanoush but with almond, pumpkin seeds and honey plus spice. I could eat several of these. Then the scallops. Made the mistake of only ordering two person, next time at least three! Then the arroz. Omg! Finally, we finished with the torrija and of course another porto. My better half had to stop me from returning for lunch on our way out of the city and so we ate a one of those linen tablecloth restaurants with waiters in suits and while good no where as good as Gloria. We had not planned that Oviedo would be on a annual trip to the north of Spain but the food and service at Gloria has put it on our list. For truly creative Asturias cuisine, put Gloria on...

📍 Contexto del Restaurante

Gloria, ubicado en Cervantes 24, Oviedo, es un espacio informal y moderno creado por los hermanos Manzano, Esther y Nacho, con una propuesta gastronómica basada en cocina tradicional de mercado y toques contemporáneos, ideal para compartir tapas y raciones. El local tiene una atmósfera chic y animada, con buen servicio y una decoración acogedora.

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🍽️ Platos Degustados & Maridaje Salmorejo “Gloria” con cebolleta en tempura y acompañamientos – Cremoso y vibrante, con textura sedosa y frescor vegetal. La tempura aporta un contrapunto crujiente y tenue dulzor, enriqueciendo sin sobrecargar.

Ensalada “Vuelve a la vida” de gamba y pulpo – Fresca y bien ensamblada, con aliño estilo cóctel mexicano: el curry aporta sazón suave, combinando con aguacate y jalapeños para un contraste ahumado y tenue picante que realza el marisco.

Piparras de Navarra fritas, crema de encurtidos y parmesano – Crujientes piparras, algunas con ese gusto picante característico, sobre una crema ácida y salina. El parmesano redondea con su matiz umami, equilibrando textura y sabor.

Láminas de bonito marinado a la Donostiarra, con puerro frito en ajo – El marinado, sutil y profundo, confiere aroma a ahumado y mar; el puerro, dorado en ajo, aporta un contrapunto tierno y ligeramente tostado.

Canelón de pitu con bechamel de hongos – Elegante fusión entre Asturias y texturas clásicas: pitu de corral jugoso y sabroso, bañado en una bechamel de hongos que aporta cremosidad y matices terrosos.

Nem de papada y gamba con aromáticos – Un bocado inspirado en la cocina vietnamita: la papada aporta grasa melosa, la gamba frescor y la envoltura crujiente. Los aromáticos culminan el plato con frescura herbal precisa.

Maridaje – Fardelas, Godello 2024 (DO Valdeorras, finca Farfelas, Bodega Santa Marta) – El Godello aporta frescura láctica, cítrica y cierta mineralidad que contrarresta la grasa del nem y la papada, y acompaña con gracia la intensidad de los hongos y la gamba. Excelente elección, con estructura para sostener platos densos sin aplanarlos.

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🏛️ Ambiente & Servicio

El ambiente refleja modernidad y calidez, con una decoración contemporánea que invita a disfrutar en compañía. El servicio es profesional, cercano y eficiente, manteniendo un ritmo relajado pero atento. Su filosofía de compartir y probar hace que la experiencia sea colectiva y festiva.

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🌟 Valoración

Puntos Fuertes • Calidad de ingredientes: mariscos, pitu y vegetales frescos impecables. • Técnica y creatividad: desde el nem hasta la ensalada, se percibe riesgo controlado y respetuoso. • Maridaje logrado: el Fardelas complementa sin rivalizar, realzando más de un plato. • Atmósfera y servicio: profesional y desenfadado, ideal para disfrutar en grupo.

Aspectos a Pulir • Algunos sabores, como el curry o la papada, podrían intimidar a paladares más conservadores. (Pero a mi me facino la utilización del Curry) • La acústica del local, a veces viva, podría dificultar la conversación.

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📝 Resumen de Puntuaciones

Categoría Puntuación Técnica & Cocina ★★★★☆ Creatividad ★★★★☆ Maridaje ★★★★½☆ Ambiente & Servicio ★★★★☆ Global ★★★★☆

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🔖 Conclusión

Gloria ofrece una experiencia gastronómica que combina raíces asturianas con influencias sutiles de otras cocinas: platos vibrantes, llenos de sabor, presentados con elegancia y acompañados por un maridaje inteligente. El ambiente es vivaz y el servicio, impecable. No se trata de una cocina estrellada en las formas más clásicas, pero su capacidad para emocionar y compartir le posiciona como un firme candidato al Bib Gourmand o, al menos, una Mención Michelin sólida. Una experiencia recomendable y memorable en pleno Oviedo.

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