Extreme Car Audio & Window Tinting — Attraction in Morristown

I went in and had a new radio installed. It was fine. 6 months later my speakers started dropping out every time I hit a bump. I went in to have this addressed, and they started by telling me my speakers were probably blown and I’d need new ones at over $100 each. I told them it was an electrical problem because they would go out and come back sounding just fine. He asked how I knew what a blown speaker sounded like. I reiterated that it was an electrical problem, probably a butt splice issue, and I knew this because I’m a DJ and I’ve worked in audio for over 30 years. I just don’t know how to work on a car. I admit, I lost my temper because the question was asked in a tone of voice that said “you’re a woman, what do you know?” They told me they would not help me and to get out. (I should not have yelled at them that I know the difference between a blown cone and an electrical short, and I freely admit that. I am sorry for my bad behavior.) And I would have left it there, and not written a review (because of my own bad behavior) but I want everyone to know what the upshot of the problem was.) So I took my car to Honda today, and, just like I said, the problem was, in fact, with the work that was done to connect the new radio to the car electrical system….in other words, the butt splices, just like I’d said. I know what a bad butt splice and/or molex connector sounds like, having worked on touring equipment for decades. These are, in fact, butt splices, not even shrink wrapped. The butt splices were not well done, and on 2 of them the crimp had not even held the wires together, allowing one end to make random contact as it slid in and out of the splice, and allowing it to make contact with other wires….just like I told them. This explains why my done light flashed on and off as the speakers would go on and off. It’s gonna cost me Honda labor, but it will be done correctly this time and my speakers won’t be shorting out. I asked the tech at Honda to show me everything and I can verify that the wiring was poorly done, but my 20 year old speakers have not decayed at all (I checked the cones myself after the tech pulled the door panel off for me). Very poor work. I shoulda had it done at Honda the first time, but I didn’t want to pay their labor price. Live and learn. 0/5 stars, but it won’t...

Extreme Car Audio installed a complete sound system in my sons 2004 Jeep Wrangler. I went to them having done some extensive research on products I was considering and they agreed that the alpine head unit and amp I had in mind was a good choice for my price range but suggested other speakers and sub than I was thinking. I was a little apprehensive about the dbDrive speakers they were recommending due the availability of intel I was unable to find on db products online, but they convinced me to give them a go and I couldn’t have been more pleased. The mids were clear and the highs are so crisp from both the 4x10’s in the dash and the 6.5 co-axles in the roll bar. Not to mention I was planning on a combination 8” amp and sub but Buddy and John said for around a $100 more I could get two 10” encased db speed subwoofers. I was impressed enough with the db drive platinum series speakers they installed In my sons Jeep that I’ve just recently replaced the Sony speakers in my Tundra with the dbDrive component of the same platinum series and love them as well. The guys at Extreme know their products and if you haven’t ever experienced the dbDrive brand do yourself a favor and go talk to Buddy and John and let them hook you up. Thanks guys... big thumps up from this...

They tried telling my you can't use welding cable for power wire because "it doesn't carry amperage the same" while justifying it with the fallacy of "been doing this for 30 years". Well, doing it wrong for 30 years then. Ironically a young girl was being sold a 4ga CCA amp kit at that exact moment. For those who may not know, OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) welding wire has up to 40% greater current carrying capacity over CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum). CCA also corrodes very quickly and becomes brittle; in the environment of a car this further reduces current capacity and increases risk of a fire immensely.

Normally I just roll my eyes and go about my day when I hear something so idiotic, but to stand there and make such a claim deserves a proper retort. Maybe it takes 31 years to learn BASIC electrical principals? I can't recommend another shop as I've not dealt with the others, but I can tell you where I wouldn't go! 2 seperate vehicles of people I've known that were taken here needed re-wired---just butt connectors with shoddy crimps, no soldered connections. Do yourself a favor... Research for yourself, decide what you want and learn the basics of proper installation methods. Do it yourself, or find a shop that is willing to show...