Ryotei Hanzuiryo — Hotel in Unzen

For our return visit to the area, we decided to try out Ryotei Hanzuiryo, the most famous and luxurious of the Unzen ryokans, and among the most renowned properties in the entire country. Hoping to snag one of the two Tokubetsu Shitsu (Special Rooms) with open-air bath, we called them 9 months prior to our planned visit (when booking online, they only start accepting reservations 8 months out.) For those of you wishing to stay in one of the Tokubetsu Shitsu rooms, they allow reservations a year in advance via phone. Due to its high prices (often over double the rate of Hoshino and Unzen Kyushu Hotel, both nearby), it does tend to have some decent availability if you plan even a few months ahead.||Established in 1993, the "ryotei" in Ryotei Hanzuiryo stands for a place that serves high-end Japanese cuisine, which is not unlike the Auberge moniker attached to Western properties that offer gourmet dining. It really is the ryokan's claim to fame, and based on our dining experience here, it definitely lives up to its name. The 14-room property was recently acquired by Onko Chishin, the company behind Setouchi Retreat Aonagi, Iki Kairi Murakami, Goto Retreat Ray and Muni Kyoto, among others. While we were a tad concerned about the changing of the guard, we were relieved to learn the head chef was retained under the new ownership. In fact, just about everyone there were holdovers from the previous regime, with the exception of a handful of new hires that were brought in to handle communication in major foreign languages, including English.||The 14-room property is nestled in a secluded area about 10 minutes away by foot from the central Unzen district (and the Unzen Hells.) The one drawback, however, is that this property is only offers in-room Onsen in the two special rooms due to regulations on the amount of Onsen the ryokan can draw from the main Onsen fields. From what I understand, the older properties in Unzen (Kyushu Hotel, Unzen Kanko Hotel, etc.) have first dibs on the hot springs and also make the rules. Hoshino Resorts KAI Unzen also has no restrictions since the rights were grandfathered in from the old establishment that existed on the grounds that Hoshino acquired. Although Ryotei Hanzuiryo does have a communal Onsen bath, for those wishing for in-room Onsen, the lack of them in the non-special rooms is a significant drawback.||Whereas the more centrally-located Kyushu Hotel and KAI Unzen are modern buildings with contemporary decor, Ryotei Hanzuiryo is far more traditional - the buildings are sukiya style (a type of old-school Japanese structures) that beautifully blends into the lush surroundings, moss-laden gardens and Koi-infested ponds, giving it an incredibly peaceful vibe that is reminiscent of Takefue, Gosho Gekkoju and Wanosato. Inside, it's a mixture of Showa-era aesthetics mixed with traditional Japanese elements. Hanzuiryo's enormous guest rooms - even the standard accommodations offer 250m² of living space (here's looking at you, Aman) - have their own unique layout, flavor and landscaping.. it's definitely not a cookie-cutter construction, that's for sure.||The two Tokubetsu Shitsu are Jyuen and Tsubakien; they are Villa style, are located in a separate part of the ryokan's grounds, and have their own gate and pathway to the rooms. It's really splitting hairs between the two, but we opted for Jyuen, since we preferred the tatami room in the former over the bar counter and tea room that exists in the latter. Jyuen is an enormous 300m² and features an array of different rooms (bedroom, Western-style living room, Japanese tatami room, dining room, two bathrooms, a sauna and both an indoor and outdoor bath (only the outdoor bath is Onsen.) There is a narrow hallway that wraps around most of the Villa, which is a design aesthetic of sukiya-style structures. We loved Jyuen - it's spacious but not spartan in its appointments, the outdoor Onsen rock bath was amazing, the view of nature from every room in the Villa was soothing, and all amenities taken care of, including personalized lotion/creams, toothbrush, razor, shaving cream, brush, comb, cotton swabs.... it easily blows away any first-class airline amenity kit by a country mile. The bed was heavenly (much more than Westin beds) - the comforter was light, fluffy and warm... I wish more properties stopped cheaping out by using heavy, non-down comforters.||And then there was the kaiseki meal for dinner, which is served in the guest room (there is no restaurant here), and was outstanding. The ingredients were high end, the flavors were subtle but unique and umami-infused, and the presentation of each dish was incredibly artful. They served a medley of Torafugu (puffer fish) from the nearby Ariake Sea, which consisted of Torafugu Ganba Yubiki (Sliced and boiled Fugu), Nikogori (Terrine of Fugu in a jellied broth) and Skin of the Fugu as well. The Yurine-iri Kuwai-mochi Mizore Jitate (Arrowhead powder mochi dumpling with Lily bulb inside, in a soup made from dashi, grated daikon radish and salt) was similarly unforgettable - it had the texture of mochi but was much, much lighter. Nagasaki one of Japan's seafood and culinary capitals due to numerous currents colliding in every bay, channel and open water, and also has sophisticated cuisine as a result of its long history of interactions with China, Korea and later the Western powers. Ryotei Hanzuiryo does a top-notch job in representing the best that Nagasaki has to offer, which is saying a lot.||Service was also among the best that we've experienced; our Nakai-san (room attendant), Ms. Hata, was charming, cheerful, and meticulously explained every aspect of every dish in exhaustive detail. Every time we left the room, we returned to find our towels refreshed, electronic cables cleanly rearranged, cups replaced and cotton swabs refilled in the container (even when we only used one swab out of 10!) Every single staff we passed by acknowledged our presence and greeted us with smiles, even if we were 50 feet away. Finally, they valet parked (and retrieved) our vehicle each time we came and went.||Ryotei Hanzuiryo is definitely in the upper echelon of luxury ryokans. The Villa was otherworldly, the setting is mystical, the food was sumptuous and service was Omotenashi at its finest. If the lack of in-room Onsen in the non-special rooms is not a showstopper, this ryokan should delight even the most discriminating...

We had a two-night stay here in this beautiful hotel set amongst the misty forest, some 700m up in the mountains. ||Right after the auto gates, the staff came out of the hotel to gather our luggage and bring them to our room. We waited in the library, perusing their books and awards, before checking formalities started. ||We were brought to our room and introduced to Villa layout. We were also walked to the onsen, all through underground and air con comfort. ||Our Villa was divided into two distinct zones. The upper level where we entered was living quarters. Our western beds in one room, and next to it a tatami style sitting room, with a pair of chairs and side table facing the forest below. ||Off to one side was a small walk-in coffee/tea making facility and the usual cups, glasses etc. There’s a working fridge where the FOC drinks are placed. A small wardrobe is also placed here. ||The bedroom had two double beds and a very warm quilt. There are no charging points near my side of the bed. The room had a bit old school or classic. A wardrobe was nearer my bed, dressing table and chair opposite the bed. Note that the windows have sliding “black-out” shoji panels that roll across to cut out the morning light.||Nearer the main walkway to the house is a separate shower/sink area and toilet. The large shower area has a sunken cedar wood bath and a standing/sitting shower. Shower gels, conditioner and shampoo is provided. ||At the sink area are the usual full amenities provided by ryokans, plus facial wash and toner and hair dryer. There’s also a generous amount of towels in the cupboard next to sink. ||Downstairs is where we dine and enjoy the Japanese garden scapes. A room is set up for us to eat our meals in the villa. Mika was our host, and she was friendly and gentle in playing the food for us. The food was delicious kaiseki style. Breakfast was also served by Mika and was very generous.||The staff have a kitchen here to make sure your food is warm and hot drinks like coffee is made on the spot. The same team will do the housekeeping. ||The people here are super warm and friendly and some do speak English, like Mika. We were very happy with the service.||We had a great time here and would love to come back if given the...

Winding mountain road a fifteen minute walk or three minute drive from Unzen Jigoku. Staff were all very friendly. My spouse speaks some Japanese but they quickly switched to the English-speaking Assistant General Manager Amira for the rest of our stay, and he was wonderfully attendant and accommodating. Beautiful location, quiet, spacious. Gardens and paths are immaculately manicured. The two-level suite was equipped with a staff mini kitchen (probably meant for in-suite dining and less for guest use), and was well-decorated for a guest house with small attentions to detail (water splashed down the rock with the freshly cut chrysanthemum, inlaid furniture). The private garden was a welcome sight. The view from the restaurant during daytime is somewhat breathtaking in the autumn.

Michelin dinner was wonderful and filling - well worth it if you will be coming all this way. They make your celebrations a little more special with handwritten calligraphy on beautiful long-fibered paper if you let them know in advance. Try the unique tomato wine, but they let you bring the bottle back if you don't finish, so we tried the smaller of the local wine & sake flights as well.

Finding the hot springs through the partially underground corridors was a small and memorable adventure. We loved our stay and would definitely love to...