Fumon-in Temple (Pilgrim's Lodging) — Local services in Koya

We overnighted at Koyasan here as it was more reasonably priced than the exorbitant amounts some of the more popular temple stays were charging.

LOCATION + ACCESSIBILITY The temple is excellently located, only a 2-ish min walk from the Senjuin-bashi bus stop.

ROOM We booked a twin tatami room (which had futons instead of beds, which was what we wanted 😀) that had a communal toilet shared between everyone on the floor (five rooms in total for ours).

The rooms looked a bit aged, like hotel rooms from the 90s, but were clean and tidy, at least for ours. It was modestly furnished and did smell a bit dank, but was easy to air out. I did wish that they would have replaced some of the water-stained/lifting wallpaper and screens of the screen doors.

COMMUNAL TOILET The toilet — triple-sinked communal wash area and two cubicles per gender — was very clean and looked mostly new, as did the guest entrance and communal bath. 😌

COMMUNAL BATH Enjoyed the communal bath which had a decent-sized pool with hot water to soak in after a long-ish journey up Koyasan but def saw the lady who went in after me NOT properly soaping and washing up before going into the pool which was 🤢 rules of engagement are written v clearly (you know the Japs love their signs) so please read them carefully and don’t assume you know how things work and ruin it for the rest of us.

MEALS Meals were all vegan and we personally found delightful — I counted 8 dishes in total (sans rice, soup and tea) for dinner and 6 for breakfast and everything was so carefully prepared.

We dined at a communal hall with folks in the other rooms (there are partitions for privacy) and while we lapped up everything, it was interesting to see that the men all finished their food while most women left at least a quarter to half of their food untouched, which hurts my ‘lil tree-hugging heart (the temple does ask you to let them know if you don’t need breakfast so they can reduce food waste 🥲).

RULES A good amount of rules like dinner at 5.30PM, 9PM curfew and dedicated duration for using the communal bath but they are not difficult to abide by (this is the lifestyle monks follow so not sure why folks who voluntarily book a temple stay would whine about this) and the change of pace was interesting.

SUMMARY THOUGHTS Was a comfortable and clean + tidy stay, down to the pressed yukatas neatly folded in the amenities tray. The staff speak sufficient English to communicate and are kind and unobtrusive.

Keen to try other temples on my next visit, but would def recommend this place if you’re planning to spend a night...

Getting There

I was thrilled to try a shukubō (temple lodging) in Kōyasan. Google Maps showed 2–3 hours from Osaka with several transfers, so I expected a hassle—but the journey was a breeze. Signage is clear at every interchange, trains and buses are well-timed and frequent, it’s not expensive, and the scenery from the train (if you snag the right side) is stunning. It almost feels like you’re hiking through the mountains.

Booking & Room

I booked in late August for late October, and everything was full except the Superior Twin Room—slightly pricier and with beds instead of futons. I took it because I really wanted this temple experience, and it was absolutely worth every extra euro. We had a garden view (one of the most beautiful in Kōyasan and not open to the public even if you are a guest), in-room heating, complimentary tea and coffee, our own toilet, plus towels, toothbrushes, and yukata (light robes used as pajamas).

Food

The meals were exquisite—super varied and very filling. Dinner was 12 courses plus fruit; breakfast was 9 courses plus fruit. We had a private table, set apart from others with small chairs (I suspect that came with the room category). Keep in mind this is a Buddhist temple in Japan, so don’t expect meat; it’s part of the experience, and a beautiful one.

Morning Meditation

Meditation starts at 6:30 a.m. We arrived a bit early—good call, because the best seats with a clear view of the altar are limited. There’s heating, so while it’s chilly, it’s manageable.

Verdict

If I could choose from every room type today, I’d pick the same one again—price...

🏠 From check-in to check-out, every staff member was very kind in a really genuine way. The room is relatively big, and both the room and common bathrooms are very clean. No outside shoes allowed at all, you get house shoes at the entrance. Before check-in you get a really detailed guide about everything you need to know, the rules, and the strict schedule of events. 🍲 The food was interesting, of course vegetarian, but a big variety both at dinner and breakfast, with a few things that I have never eaten in my life. In the end, you get full but still do not feel bloated. 🛀 The onsen is also nice to try out and rest in the evening. Make sure to wash yourself properly. The morning ceremony was very interesting to attend. 💲Overall, it was a great experience, and I think it should be tried once when in Japan, but pricewise, it is really overvalued. This place had a lower price compared to other ones, I am glad we chose this shukubo and not the really expensive ones. ✅️ Also, even though there are many tourists in this Koyasan area, the experience thanks to the monks still doesn't feel touristy, but it is really genuine. ❌️ Maybe some people should learn a bit more in advance about the history of this place, and the reason why people come here. We were unlucky and were here with some pretty loud guests, who during the breakfast and dinner were laughing loud, chatting between tables almost as in a pub. This took away a bit from the experience of other guests who tried to enjoy the peace and silence...