Henjoson-in Temple (Pilgrim's Lodging) — Local services in Koya

We lucked into this shukubo - it was available for our dates and was in what appeared to be a good location for our interests on the mountain.||||Turned out, it was perfect. The location is central to all the major spots you’ll want to visit. ||||If you arrive earlier than check-in time, as we did, you can leave your luggage at the front door and they will hold it for you. We found the young monk who greeted us to be quite friendly. We saw him several times during our stay. When we checked out, the head monk took our keys. He too seemed pleased that we stayed with them and that we stayed for such a long stay. When we returned to check in after doing some early site-seeing, we did not work with a monk but with an staff member whose job was similar to the front desk clerk at an hotel. He checked us in, explained the workings of the temple, showed us where to find things, explained the timings for meals, prayer ceremony, public bath||||Our Japanese style room with garden view was large and lovely. The view to the small interior garden was perfect: a stone bridge with a small red maple tree was right outside our floor to ceiling window. We booked a room with a toilet which was sufficient for our needs. We used the communal bath so didn’t need to make use of the showers in the wash room down the hall. The public baths alternate location daily - one is upstairs, one not. The baths are among the largest ancient cypress communal baths on the mountain. Take care with the stairs up, they are quite steep. We are used to sleeping on futons and the ones in the room were very comfortable. ||||The food was lovely. All meals are Shojin-Ryori (vegetarian Kaiseki) and absolutely beautifully presented. Seating in the large dining room rotated daily so we had our favorite table only to lose it, but then we got it back again another day. We stayed for 3 nights. At some ryokans we've stayed at, three nights meant a repeat dinner on the third night, but not here and we found that quite nice. The same held true for breakfast - 3 different breakfasts. My only complaint about the food was that after 3 days I didn’t want to see another piece of tofu in any way shape or form for the rest of our 6 week trip. The tofu I liked the best was a tofu burger with vegetables incorporated in the mixture.||||The morning ceremony in the gorgeous prayer hall is not to be missed. The main hall is a bit chilly, be sure to dress warmly and take one of the blankets piled up by the door. I’ll not spoil the occasion by describing the ritual in the space below the main hall. The monk who greeted us when we first arrived seemed pleased that we attended the morning ceremony. After it was all over I asked the monk if I could return to the hall and take a few photos. He willing agreed and even offered to pose for me. ||||An added amenity which we didn’t find available at many other shukubo was a gift/souvenir/religious paraphernalia shop and drinks machines which include beer! There is a commons room with piano and an open seating area in one hallway, with a smoking area. The hallways have flower displays and some paintings. They are quite chilly so we didn’t linger long. Walking around the temple can be a bit tricky. You leave your shoes at the entrance where there are slippers lined up in several sizes. No size was right and none seemed to stay on: we prefer to walk in our socks when faced with such slippers at castles, but here we didn’t want to offend, so we wore the slippers but tended to trip on non-existent goblins in the floor.||||Other than the slippers and the overabundance of tofu, this was a perfect place. We loved it here and would...

Before deciding to stay overnight at an active Buddhist temple, you have surely overnighted in ryokan style lodging somewhere in Japan (if not then you must do that first). Henjoson-in is a Buddhist temple that has opened up to allow visitors to stay overnight and to a certain extent, experience what life is like inside an actual Buddhist temple. Staying overnight at a temple in Koyasan goes beyond the typical ryokan experience which is presumably what you are looking for when deciding to stay here. With that understanding, then you will be amenable to the fact that there is essentially no English speaking staff (meaning the monks) and there is no guide book in your room written in English explaining exactly what to do and when. Staying at Henjoson-in is not for "novices"; you need to be familiar with the workings and arrangements of ryokan life and you will need to be keenly observant of what is going on around you so you can follow others to meals and the morning prayer services. Even better, go with someone who speaks Japanese so they can translate for you (I did and it helped tremendously). ||You walk through the temple gate and as you follow the stone path to the entrance of the temple you are leaving the trappings of your “normal” life behind; get into the frame of mind (meaning no frame of mind) that the temple is speaking to you. You are greeted by a monk, you leave your shoes and suitcase at the entrance and are led to your room. Your shoes remain at the entrance for when you wish to go out and your suitcase will be brought to your room. It is a simple and nice tatami room; it is all you need. You will be shown the onsen style bath, men’s and women’s are separate. You will be instructed on when and where to go to dinner that evening as well as the prayer services and breakfast the following morning. ||Accommodations and Meals: A clean and simple tatami room, there are some common areas to sit and read or visit with others, meals in the dining hall are quite delicious and are vegetarian, mostly tofu-based dishes. The bath has everything you need. This is not a full-service hotel but you will be comfortable.||Plan to arrive around midday so you have plenty of time to walk around Koyasan and experience other temples and shrines.||Tips: 1) The quiet of night comes very early to a Buddhist temple. Other than a nice walk after dinner, there is nothing to do in Koyasan at night anyway. You are not here for nightlife. 2) The morning prayer service is quite early; allow time to find it and get settled in before the appointed start time. 3) You will definitely attend this morning prayer service, it’s why you’re here after all, right? This is a once in a lifetime experience, you do not miss these. 4) Koyasan is up in the hills/mountains. If you stay here in the fall or spring, the heat is rather limited so be prepared with suitable clothing and socks. You will be plenty warm in bed, but the morning will be cold.||You will leave relaxed and at peace. You might find your now quieted mind somewhat jostled upon your initial encounters back with your...

Before deciding to stay overnight at an active Buddhist temple, you have surely overnighted in ryokan style lodging somewhere in Japan (if not then you must do that first). Henjoson-in is a Buddhist temple that has opened up to allow visitors to stay overnight and to a certain extent, experience what life is like inside an actual Buddhist temple. Staying overnight at a temple in Koyasan goes beyond the typical ryokan experience which is presumably what you are looking for when deciding to stay here. With that understanding, then you will be amenable to the fact that there is essentially no English speaking staff (meaning the monks) and there is no guide book in your room written in English explaining exactly what to do and when. Staying at Henjoson-in is not for "novices"; you need to be familiar with the workings and arrangements of ryokan life and you will need to be keenly observant of what is going on around you so you can follow others to meals and the morning prayer services. Even better, go with someone who speaks Japanese so they can translate for you (I did and it helped tremendously). ||You walk through the temple gate and as you follow the stone path to the entrance of the temple you are leaving the trappings of your “normal” life behind; get into the frame of mind (meaning no frame of mind) that the temple is speaking to you. You are greeted by a monk, you leave your shoes and suitcase at the entrance and are led to your room. Your shoes remain at the entrance for when you wish to go out and your suitcase will be brought to your room. It is a simple and nice tatami room; it is all you need. You will be shown the onsen style bath, men’s and women’s are separate. You will be instructed on when and where to go to dinner that evening as well as the prayer services and breakfast the following morning. ||Accommodations and Meals: A clean and simple tatami room, there are some common areas to sit and read or visit with others, meals in the dining hall are quite delicious and are vegetarian, mostly tofu-based dishes. The bath has everything you need. This is not a full-service hotel but you will be comfortable.||Plan to arrive around midday so you have plenty of time to walk around Koyasan and experience other temples and shrines.||Tips: 1) The quiet of night comes very early to a Buddhist temple. Other than a nice walk after dinner, there is nothing to do in Koyasan at night anyway. You are not here for nightlife. 2) The morning prayer service is quite early; allow time to find it and get settled in before the appointed start time. 3) You will definitely attend this morning prayer service, it’s why you’re here after all, right? This is a once in a lifetime experience, you do not miss these. 4) Koyasan is up in the hills/mountains. If you stay here in the fall or spring, the heat is rather limited so be prepared with suitable clothing and socks. You will be plenty warm in bed, but the morning will be cold.||You will leave relaxed and at peace. You might find your now quieted mind somewhat jostled upon your initial encounters back with your...