DYNO Detroit Climbing — Local services in Detroit

It pains me to leave a negative review for this gym, but after giving it ample time to improve, I feel it’s necessary to share my experience. I’ve held off on writing anything less than five stars, hoping things would get better. Unfortunately, they haven’t. The biggest issue with DYNO is its route setting. If you’re a 6-foot-tall climber, you likely won’t struggle. However, if you’re shorter—like me, at 5 feet with a 0 ape index—you’re in for a frustrating experience. I have repeatedly left feedback for the setters, the owner, and through the Kaya app, expressing concerns about the lack of height-inclusive routes. Many problems are impossible—or nearly impossible—without resorting to unsafe dynamic moves. And rather than improving, the setting seems to be getting worse. For context, I am an average climber, with my bouldering grade ranging from V4-V6 (occasionally V7) and my roped climbing between 5.10c-5.12d, depending on whether I’m leading or top-roping. I’ve climbed at many gyms across the Midwest, Canada, and beyond, and I rarely encounter these issues elsewhere. At DYNO, I often leave my sessions feeling discouraged and frustrated. When I repeatedly watch taller climbers effortlessly reach holds that are completely out of my range, it’s disheartening. I’m not alone in feeling this way—many other climbers have voiced similar frustrations. Some may not feel comfortable addressing it with the owner, or perhaps they have and nothing has changed. I’ve personally spoken to the owner several times, and while he has assured me that his setters are working toward better height inclusivity, I’ve seen little improvement over the years. One of the most frustrating aspects of DYNO’s route setting is the overuse of long reaches as a way to increase difficulty, particularly in higher-level climbs. There are many ways to make a problem more challenging—such as smaller holds, worse angles, complex movement, or technical footwork—without simply spacing out the holds. Prioritizing reach over technique makes it nearly impossible for shorter climbers to progress, forcing them into unsafe dynamic moves just to complete basic sequences. When I struggle with what feels like two-thirds of the routes because of unreachable holds or unsafe dynamic moves, there is still a major problem. As a paying member, it’s frustrating to feel ignored. My partner and I are seriously considering canceling our memberships and switching to Planet Rock or the Windsor bouldering gym—both of which have far more height-inclusive route setting.

Suggestions for Improvement: Incorporate Height-Inclusive Route Setting Practices: Ensure that routes have alternative beta for shorter climbers, avoiding mandatory deadpoints or extreme reaches that favor taller climbers. Hire More Diverse Route Setters: A variety of perspectives—including more women and shorter setters—can lead to more inclusive problems. Utilize Adjustable Starting Positions: Adding additional footholds or alternative starts can make routes more accessible without altering difficulty. Add More Holds and Foot Chips: Increasing the number of holds and foot chips does not necessarily make a climb easier, but it does make it more accessible for shorter climbers by allowing for reasonable progression between moves. Move Away from “Reach-Based” Difficulty: Longer reaches should not be the primary method of increasing difficulty in routes. There are plenty of other ways to challenge climbers, such as by using smaller holds, more technical sequences, or trickier body positioning. Collect and Implement User Feedback: Route setters should actively engage with climbers of all heights to understand their struggles and adjust accordingly. Test Routes with Climbers of Different Heights: Before finalizing a set, have shorter climbers test them to ensure accessibility.

Dyno has the potential to be an outstanding gym, if they make the necessary changes to be accommodating to people of all heights. If they make these improvements, they’d have 5...

I initially called ahead a week prior to my planned visit to DYNODetroit, where I hoped to surprise my friend by taking him rock climbing for his birthday. Having very little knowledge of the sport, I was apprehensive and nervous myself. Staff member Brock was on the other side of my call and offered a lot of information and communicated it simply and with gentleness as I expressed my concern to not properly coordinate ahead of time in terms of wardrobe or gear. He reassured me that they’d have everything available and assist when we arrived. I immediately felt at ease to have had Brock so personally invested in my attempts to celebrate my friend with this activity far from either of our expertise.

When we arrived around midday on the following Friday, we were greeted by staff member Kenny, who was so welcoming, gregarious, and bright. As I shared that it was our first time to visit DynoDetroit and that my friend was celebrating his birthday, Kenny offered us a special rate for the occasion. I was so moved by the care that Kenny and the entire facility extended to us.

Kenny offered a very thorough tour of all of the features to the establishment and a very detailed orientation on the gear we rented and the safety and practices surrounding climbing. I felt a strong sense of trust in the gym and staff as soon as we stepped inside and that carried on throughout the entire day.

Brock came over to greet us as we set up for the day and I was thankful to meet him in person, after he served as such a strong source of comfort over the phone. He was intentional to connect with us, visiting with such a warm approach between our climbs. When I found myself paralyzed in fear at the top of a beginner climb later that day, Brock recognized my nerves from across the way and genuinely cheered me on in repelling down.

A part-time staff member, Lucy, happened to be on site that day for her own personal climbing, yet still offered her skills as a certified lead belay for us. She approached us to invite us to rely on her, should we decide to diversify our experience with different routes. She quite literally sacrificed her own time to climb and opened our ability to discover other parts of the wall that required someone to belay for us. She was joyful and patient and encouraging – especially meaningful to me as I hesitated to climb beyond a certain level.

Sam, another staff member, collected our gear at the end of our time – about 3.5 hours after we initially arrived. He was intentional to follow-up with our experience for feedback and to share in on the excitement we each held for the time we spent there.

Throughout the entire day, members of the gym and staff were smiling, friendly, and purposeful in approaching us to introduce themselves, share tips, or simply celebrate a completion of a route. I felt as though I had been a long-time valued member, rather than a brand-new visitor.

The facilities are brilliantly clean, maintained with safety as a priority, and strongly driven in being community-focused. It’s a value that has vibrantly and obviously been adopted by every person who is a part of DYNODetroit. I saw it from recurring members, as well as from other first-time visitors who were there as a part of single-time gatherings.

As someone who is deeply fearful of heights and who was only initially motivated to participate for a one time occasions because of a friend’s birthday, I can confidentially say that I plan to return – both for the challenge in climbing, as well as for the community there!

Thank you, DYNODetroit, and thank you especially to the staff – Brock, Kenny, Lucy, and Sam - for a SPECTACULAR first time experience! I'll...

I would give a five but the girl that signed me up and sold me shoes and a harness was rude, and wasn't very helpful. I felt embarrassed trying to communicate with her and she was condescending. I love the place, I love the atmosphere and no issues with anyone else. I get paid once a month and she couldn't make it so I get charged on the 3rd instead of the 1st, my family friend is practically my brother and another employee was trying to make it so I could get a discount for living together but the girl I had issues with in my opinion made that not happen as well. So now Idk if I'll be able to come back next month because they are gonna charge my card with 0$ on it and I'm not paying the enrollment fee. I wanted my own membership so I could go whenever but I guess I'll just be a guest after this month.

Also when she was teaching me about the checks on the auto belay or whatever it's called she made me feel very stupid. The guy that trained me before did not go over it as she did. Honestly I still don't know all the checks now because they were conflicting. I just know to check the Caribbeaner and make sure the rope is good by pulling it. I was trying to explain to her that the guy taught me two fingers in the front and she was arguing with me and I was only trying to explain that that's how I was taught and she was trying to tell me that's not possible basically which I thought was very close-minded. I spent over $200 and the whole time all I could think is am I making the right choice and I almost wanted to just not get a membership or buy anything because she didn't explain what she was charging me for. I told her I only wanted the equipment and she put the membership in there and it just made me feel again really stupid. I am not a stupid man I know this, but it doesn't change the fact that somebody can make you feel that way in a certain area that you're not aware of or understanding in. She seemed new but the place is new so I'm not sure. She was short with a little bit of weight blondish brown hair I can't remember her name I don't even think she gave it to me to be honest. Again know that I really love the place and I'm not going to let her ruin it for me. I just wanted you guys to know that you do have an employee that is not doing her job well. Because I compare her to the other employees I have dealt with, which have been a few and they are very helpful and they are very good with people, whereas she is not. She has no humor and is very serious and I know climbing is serious but talking shouldn't be and that's where another issue was. I was trying to lighten the mood and make jokes, and she would take it literal and be condescending again. Hopefully you guys catch on to this I'm sure you will in time, and hopefully she figures it out. She definitely was a new employee because she was asking the other employees questions because it seems she did not have the knowledge to do her job effectively. Hopefully next time I come in I can talk to somebody else, and I'm sure they can work with me on the date that the payment is taken out of my account. I'm on disability and I only get a check on the 3rd. This is my only activity I do and I wish and hope that I can continue to do it and enjoy myself and the people that I have to interact with...