Geranium — Restaurant in Copenhagen Municipality

Geranium felt like stepping into a bright, Danish fever dream and then discovering the dream has narrative continuity. Our lunch was the Summer Universe and it read exactly like that: a long, carefully paced procession that kept unfolding without ever losing its line. The room is high and light, with treetops and sky out the windows, and the mood is serene rather than hushed. It is Scandinavian-clean, beautifully calm, and deeply hospitable.

What I loved most was how wildly novel the plates looked while tasting unmistakably Danish and, crucially, delicious. So much fine dining leans on visual pyrotechnics that don't add up in the mouth. Here the compositions are exotic to look at yet coherent on the palate. The opening bites arrived like little botanical studies, complete with a glossy leaf lattice and tiny flowers you actually want to eat. A luminous orange bowl stippled with roe tasted of pure sea and sun, bright but not sugary, depth without weight. Those translucent red "petals" arranged in a pale lactic pool were a small masterclass in contrast, delicate and mineral with a gentle creaminess that carried the finish. There was a spoon course suspended in a clear, aromatic broth, dotted with tiny spheres and root coins that made their knife work obvious, and a garden plate where herbs, vegetables, and blossoms ringed an herb emulsion while a copper filigree tuile added crunch without noise. A dish veiled by an herb-flecked coin of cream looked almost abstract until you tasted how exact the seasoning was. At one point caviar arrived on featherlight slips over a glass plate streaked like a painter's palette. Every one of these moments felt playful and novel while staying legible and balanced.

The technique is virtuosic and quiet. Sauces have line and length. Salt is in check. Acidity is tuned so that seafood and vegetables speak clearly. Nothing is there to show off. Everything is there to make the main idea ring. It is rare to see this much visual invention in the service of flavor rather than at its expense.

Service was equally on point. Polished, warm, and genuinely proud of the house. Our server was charming, impossibly energetic, and after lunch he led us on a tour of the kitchens and cellar, narrating the flow with the delight of someone who actually loves his job. His maroon suit was smashing and now lives in my memory as part of the restaurant's color palette. The whole team kept a four-hour lunch buoyant. Courses and "satellites" kept arriving at the exact moment you were ready for the next idea, which is harder than it looks.

Even the framing details felt considered. The seasonal "universe" gives you a theme without confining the cooking. The pairing programs are curated rather than showy, and there is a clear sustainability thread that reads as Danish common sense rather than branding. It is a long meal, yes, but it moves. You never feel stuck. You feel carried.

Photos can capture the beauty of the plates but not the quiet confidence behind them. Geranium is exotic in look and feel, deeply Danish in temperament and flavor, and composed with the kind of discipline that makes novelty taste inevitable. A world-class experience, and an...

Obviously this review needs to be contextualised by the fact that 1) this restaurant is a three star, 2) it is charging a (very) top end price point (£750 or $1,000 / head).

With that context, and noting this is obviously subjective, I can comfortably say that for us it is probably the worst Michelin visit in the last 5 years and I would absolutely not recommend to any serious eaters. It was not helped by being at Franzen a couple of days earlier which was truly sublime in every dimension.

So, our issues:

1. Flavourless and completely underwhelming dishes - just none of the depth of complexity that you expect at this level. Very one dimensional. I couldn’t help but think if they stopped all of the completely pointless technique and just concentrated on distilling some intensity in their sauces and dishes, they would be much better off. I distinctly remember eating a whole pumpkin seed (unadulterated) in their first desert and thinking that was possibly the most flavourful thing I’d eaten in several courses. I ate 6 insanely ornate tuiles, and watched the plating chefs break about 30% of these as they attempted to plate and then discard, and yet every single one was completely flavourless. Honestly like a dry cracker. What’s the point?

2. Over working other ingredients: They took a beautiful plump scallop, and flayed it into little slices, totally removing it of any texture. It was a crime. The ‘intense juice from the scallop’ they served it with was basically scallop water and diluted the flavour. Then there is the turbot - a glorious fish, that instead was turned into a sort of white pappy foam carrot, and in the process lost the will to live. I am fine with deconstructed but it has to bring something new or interesting - it can’t just remove flavour and texture.

3. other smaller things: 1) at this price point it felt frankly quite ungenerous with super premium ingredients. A bit of caviar, very small amount of truffle (across 2 dishes but minute quantities) a scallop and a tiny bit of turbot foam, and the rest vegetables. 2) we had the ‘kitchen table’ - which we accepted and they communicated to us in advance so mea culpa here. But feel like they should let you know, this is not one of those nice extra privilege style kitchen tables (proximity, interaction, etc) - not here, feels like you’re shoved in a nook in the kitchen and just 1 meter behind you every 15 seconds you hear ‘CORNER’ yelled as the chefs and waiters scurry back and forth and ensure they don’t collide. It was not pleasant and if you do wish to go to this restaurant (see above for why I think you shouldn’t) then do not accept this table (they did move us when another table opened up to be fair, but was 75% into the meal).

I really am completely stunned by the other reviews and how highly rated this place is. It’s not even remotely close to the top top mark set by places like Troisgros, Martin Berasategui, Franzen etc. I can only assume due to its immense publicity it attracts a lot of people who don’t do this kind of dining on a regular basis… maybe they are impressed...

Had the privilege of eating at Noma and Geranium two days apart (#1 and #2 on the 2021 World's 50 best list).

How we got in: Tried for reservations and the waitlist without luck. We showed up Wednesday when we arrived into town and just stopped in at open. The hostess said she had a high-top for 2 by the fire so we sat down (don't know if it was a morning cancellation or if they hold that table for walk-ins?)

Vibe:  "Come as you are". People from all over the world. Some in T-Shirts and Jeans, some in sports coats, some older women dressed to the nines.

Menu: Both the full tasting menu and a shortened version are available at lunch. We did the full version. Cost around $400 USD per person.

Staff: Very engaging and relaxed. We had 10-12 people come by. They of course would tell you about every dish but our two main waitresses (Julia and Younis) would chit-chat and hang around if you asked questions about the food, drinks or restaurant. Not at all rushed.

Most next-level, mind blowing item: The geranium smoked cherry juice in a wine glass. The smokey smell when you nose the glass vs. the rush of sweet sugar when you sip the drink was just overwhelming the senses. Unlike anything I've ever had. Julia makes it every Tuesday and told us all about it. Half fresh cherries, half barrel cherries, boiled for an hour, fermented for 24 hours. Table side smoking of the Geranium into the glass. Truly next level.

Drink: Passed on the wine pairing as I was jet lagged and afraid I would fall asleep at lunch. The Copenhagen Sparkling Tea was very, very good. I ordered a case when I got home.

Signature Dish: Marbled egg slice with a foamy butter and cavier. It was good.

Surprising Dish: "Squid, Melted Smoked Lard, Essence of Yeast & Potatoes" Thinnly sliced squid in a brine soup with liquified pork fat. Was not expecting to like this but the squid was so soft and tasty (not chewy, not rubbery)

Favorite Dish:  "Jerusalem, Artichoke Leaves & Pickled Walnut Leaves" The best chips and dip I've ever had.

Other dishes I loved: Lobster tacos. Taco shell made with pressed dried veggies.

Features ingredients: Lots of beets, forest flowers and seafood.

Weakness:  Desserts. I'm American. I love over the top decadent sugary desserts. These were light and not very sweet (mouse, berries, yogurts, etc). Would take French Laundry or Lazy Betty's courses of dessert over these any day.

Absolutely worth the money. Absolutely should go. Not a single dish I didn't finish. Loved everything about the food, drink...