I had the then best meal of my life at Locavore ten years ago and returned many times, never failing to make an advance reservation every time I returned to Ubud. In 2023, Locavore closed to prepare for its metamorphosis into Locavore NXT and there was no way that that I would pass on visiting the new restaurant and premises in its new incarnation and again made my reservation way ahead of my next trip to Bali, in fact, planning my itinerary around the dinner at Locavore NXT. Spoiler alert: this would be the now best meal of my life.
A meal at a restaurant may be just that: a meal to satiate hunger pangs or cravings. I’m sorry to disappoint you, but Locavore NXT fails to deliver on that note. A meal here is not just a meal, but is in reality, an experiential journey into what I deign “dinner theatre” where every meal is a performance and the diners are the audience, blithely unaware of what lies ahead but sure of one thing, that this will be something exceptional to remember.
While the food should logically be the mainstay and focus of a meal, it goes without saying that especially for fine-dining, so much more goes into the total presentation and packaging, to manifest and deliver the intention of the chef in bringing the dish from the kitchen to the table. It is here that Locavore NXT goes all out in upping the showmanship factor from the get-go.
From the entry into the grounds via a meandering long driveway to the “welcome shed”, down the garden path to the main building proper, you eyes boggle at the scale of everything, although you have barely scratched the surface.
You are offered a welcome drink at the bar and given an introduction to this localised rebellion, and asked for your dietary restrictions. You are gently reminded that they subscribe to slow dining, so your meal would take about three hours.
Your first snacks are served. These are so intricately put together and so pretty that it would be a disservice if they were not accorded the compulsory photo.
The journey continues where you are led through a massive carved wooden door and brought downstairs into the basement. With the tall concrete columns and glass windows from floor to ceiling, the green of the rice fields outside is a start contrast to the dark interior, atmospheric as they come.
You enter the Mushroom Chamber where the woody fragrance permeates the area. A glass enclosed mushroom chamber lies round the corner and the amber lights induce an aura of mystery. Throughout this tour, the staff member leading you serves as your guide and fills you in on what you are experiencing. The mushroom chamber expands on their push for local ingredients and those in cultivation have already been earmarked to be used in an upcoming new menu.
A digital B.I.O. library documenting all the local ingredients they have used over the past decade introduces the educational aspect of this journey.
Upstairs in the main dining room, you walk through the restaurant and see the busy stations teeming with staff. At your table, the menu is presented and your meal has barely begun but you already know it will be something special.
Over the many (19!) dainty dishes served, you can also opt for drink-pairing and each course is a work of art, from the balanced flavours and ingredients to the flawless plating presentation. Please refer to the photos and salivate.
This is one of those times where you think words cannot do justice to what you are experiencing but then again feel that you need to give due credit where credit is earned.
While Locavore was more intimate and personal, Locavore NXT is now a behemoth of an operation, with an army of staff and running on military precision. That said, the earnest and warm attention and service by the team cannot be faulted.
Admittedly, this was an expensive meal by Bali standards, but if you consider what you are getting, this was a meal that surpassed all expectations and was worth the price paid. It would definitely warrant repeat visits.
No regrets. But a lifetime...
Read moreA Feast for the Eyes, a Famine for the Wallet (and Perhaps Your Patience)
Locavore NXT, the much-lauded evolution of Ubud’s celebrated Locavore, promises a journey into the avant-garde of Indonesian cuisine. And for a while, it delivers. The experience begins with a flourish, a theatrical presentation that immediately captivates. As other reviewers have noted, the initial “wow” factor is undeniable. The delicate flower starter, a visual masterpiece, hints at the artistic approach to come. The glimpse into the fermentation room, a testament to the restaurant’s commitment to innovative techniques, further builds anticipation. This is clearly not your average warung. The tasting menu unfolds with meticulous plating and intriguing flavor combinations. Most courses were a miniature work of art, showcasing local ingredients with creative flair. They were also very good about my wifes allergies and intolerances.
However, the initial enchantment begins to wane as the evening progresses. My primary concern, and one that significantly impacts the overall experience, lies with the beverage pairings. While thoughtfully chosen, the pours were disappointingly meager. A mere sip here and there hardly complements the intricate flavors of the dishes. This parsimonious approach to the drinks felt particularly jarring given the premium price point. When I raised this issue with the staff at the end of the meal, it was met with polite acknowledgment, but no real solution. A more generous pouring policy, or perhaps even the option of a refil, would dramatically elevate the dining experience.
The pacing of the meal also proved problematic. Clocking in at nearly four hours, the experience felt excessively drawn out. While a leisurely meal can be enjoyable, the extended duration began to feel tedious, diminishing the enjoyment of the later courses. To be transparent, we booked for 1930, with the traffic arrived at 1948. We asked for a quicker service on the dessert courses and paid at 2338.
Another point of contention arose with the bill. The choice of an espresso martini from a tea/coffee menu at the end was met with an unexpected charge. While not a significant sum (95,000 IDR), the lack of clear communication regarding its inclusion in the tasting menu felt like a misstep. Transparency in pricing is crucial, especially in establishments of this caliber. The only recompense was that this was the only beverage with an adequate portion.
Now, let's address the elephant in the room: value. At2,000,00p IDR++ or average of 100,000 IDR per course, Locavore NXT represents a significant investment. One course is roughly five times the cost of a satisfying meal at a local warung. While I understand the value proposition of fine dining—the artistry, the unique ingredients, the meticulous service—the diminishing returns here are undeniable. The sheer cost, coupled with the issues mentioned above, makes it difficult to justify the price.
Finally, the experience ended on a sour note. The restaurant’s remote location presented challenges in securing transportation. The lack of readily available taxis at the entrance forced us to walk a considerable distance in the dark to reach the main road, leaving a feeling of unease and dampening the overall impression of the evening.
In conclusion, Locavore NXT offers moments of genuine brilliance. The presentation is stunning, and the culinary creativity is evident. However, issues with beverage service, pacing, transparency in pricing, and logistical challenges significantly detract from the overall experience. While visually captivating, the value proposition simply doesn't align with the price tag for me. For those seeking a truly immersive and satisfying culinary journey in Ubud, there are other establishments that offer a more balanced and ultimately more...
Read moreI was greeted with open arms by the locals, whose warmth and hospitality made my stay truly memorable. From the moment I arrived, it felt like home away from home. The locals' welcoming nature not only enhanced my experience but also left a lasting impression on me. Daniel , the reservation manager was so great in what he does accommodate us very well and took us for the first part of the introduction. He showed us not only the exterior of the building but also the spirit of it. One of the highlights of my trip was undoubtedly the food. Every meal was a culinary delight, showcasing the richness and diversity of the local ingredients . From traditional flavours like jamu in their juice pairings bursting with flavor to innovative twists on the things that they grow in their farm and available around them, each bite was a revelation. The head beverage program Marina was absolutely amazing in her own craft sharing session and session on her inspiration and ideas backbone on how she paired the food with her beverages for the night. Putri, the restaurant manager was also a star during our meal. Checking in with us from time to time making sure we are relax and comfortable and created the sense of belonging in her house “Locavore “ the warm and comfortable feeling unlike any restaurant. It’s an evident that the locals take great pride in their culinary heritage, and their passion shines through in every dish and service. What sets Locavore apart is its commitment to preserving and promoting local’s crafts, spirit , culture and passion in food. Despite the growing influence of global cuisine, there's a strong emphasis on keeping the food authentically local. One of their key member Aka “Boss “ brought us for a foraging trip. He showed us how important and different an ingredients taste like if the plant is happy in its original environment instead of growing in a capitalism destructive environment. This dedication in maintaining culinary traditions is commendable and adds a unique dimension to the dining experience. He showed us how importance it is to have control in what we do in a restaurant even if is just a tiny gesture.
What struck me most during my time in Locavore was the fighting spirit embedded in the community's efforts to localize food. I personally felt in loved with the whole team that treated us and took care of us for the nights we spend here.
Despite challenges, there's a palpable sense of determination to preserve and elevate local cuisine. It's this resilience and passion that make Locavore a culinary destination like no other. In conclusion, my experience here was nothing short of extraordinary. The combination of warm hospitality, sensational food, and a commitment to local culinary traditions makes it a must-visit destination for food lovers and travelers alike. I left with a full stomach and a heart full of gratitude, already longing to return for another taste of this culinary paradise and hospitality .
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