Trattoria Ermes — Restaurant in Modena

From my trip in January 2023

So I researched restaurants for Modena and this turned up in a couple of food blogs. Also I was talking to some locals and they recommended this place as well so I knew I had to go. I actually ate here twice because I had to return to Modena 3 weeks later for another exclusive reservation and made sure to stop by for lunch.

Trattoria Ermes only served lunch when I went, but I don't know if it was because it was off season or this is always the case. A small cozy place with 2 tops that can pushed together for larger parties and a large communal table in the back. I went early, about 10 minutes after opening and the place was already about a quarter full. I was seated at the communal table since I was alone.

The MENU COMPLETO is €22 and changes daily. It includes antipasto, primo, secondo, acqua, caffe, and coperto. I was also offered a menu in English but I like to read the local menu and translate what I can't figure out.

I started with salumi and bread as the antipasto. For the primi I chose tagliatelle al ragu. My secondi was coniglio al forno con patate (baked rabbit with potatoes). Finished with a caffe.

The bread was very good, 5/5 Salumi 4/5 Tagliatelle al ragu 5/5 Coniglio con patate 5/5 perfectly seasoned and very tender. Potatoes were perfect as well.

The communal table was great for me since I was alone. Friendly conversation all around and I was lucky enough to be seated next/across from a guy and his parents. He and his dad spoke English and told me how rabbit is a traditional local dish and gave be me info on the restaurant and even mentioned that Jimmy Carter had even eaten there while he was President.

The staff was great. The guy who ran things was always joking and talking and when he found out I was a chef he let me see the kitchen and meet the chef. The bartender/cashier was friendly and I had a nice conversation with him while paying and having my caffe. In fact the next evening as I was walking around he came out of the bar he was working at and greeted me and invited me in to his second job.

Such a great experience and great food! In fact when I returned to Modena 3 weeks later I had to eat at Trattoria Ermes again.

Once again I was seated at the communal table with a group of guys who went to University together and were celebrating one guy's birthday and I felt a part of the group.

The staff was wonderful and the food great as expected. This time I had Gramigna alla sausizza (salsiccia) 5/5 Costoline (costine) di maiale (oven rotated pork ribs) 5/5

One of my rare 5...

First of all, great food! Thank you for that.

I never post 'bad' reviews, but this experience unfortunately called for one. I read in previous comments on reviews that you like honest feedback, so you know where you can improve your restaurant.

First, I would like to point out the unprofessional service. We (2 non-italian speaking people) chose to sit outside but after our neighbours started smoking which is of course not the restaurants fault, but I asked if it was possible to sit inside. The waiter with mustache went inside to check this. The other waiter started to ask which drinks we wanted, I tried to explain friendly in English that we wanted to wait with our order as we potentially would change places. This would be easier for everyone. Then he said something in Italian to our neighbours which made them laugh, this made us feel incredibly uncomfortable. We felt we were being laughed at. Probably this is lesson 1 in hospitality not to do this. After that, the waiter kept being unfriendly. Luckily the other waiter (with mustache) was polite enough.

We ordered 1/4 liter of wine which was forgotten, after I friendly asked if we could get the wine we got 1/2 liter. As we didn't want to be "the annoying" clients (we already felt we weren't really welcome) we didn't say anything about it and maybe thought it was to make up the situation. At the end we paid for the 1/2 liter...

Thank you for the female employee who I guess worked in the kitchen. You made our experience a bit better. And we would like to point out that the restaurant (interior) and food were good, its just service does so much...

One of the most important and historical osteria in Modena!!! Ermes is a character in this town, he feeded all the Modenese citizens for years. If you are in town you should go there and don't miss the opportunity to try the hand made food of his awesome wife Bruna. Keep in mind that this is an osteria. A local place. Ermes will might ask you to sit with other people if there is not enough place. They are also not the most serving people. Imagine that you are eating at a grandmother house. You should finish your food and not be too picky with your requests. Example. Once we asked for an extra glass, (one for the wine and one for the water) and my request as been denied since they have 35 glasses for 35 people. That's it. There is not a menu. You sit and they will tell you what's from the kitchen. No price is mentioned. Once you are done eating you will be asked to leave to give place for other people waiting outside. Ermes doesn't accept any reservation. Go there and wait to be seated. Suggestion: go around 12 o'clock and you will find a place quickly. Don't go after 1330 because you will probably won't find a place that day. Price? That's not an issue. Last time I went he charged me with a fix price....