A city of top-end Italian cars, Modena is unquestionably one of the most affluent cities in Emilia-Romagna. The number of Maseratis, Ferraris and Lamborghinis on the roads and streets of the city bears witness to the wealth of the Modenesi. But... it is not the luxury car industry that pulls visitors to the city, although car enthusiasts will definitely be in heaven as they visit the Maserati complex on the southern end of Via Paolo Ferrari, 2km west of the centre or the Ferrari factory, 20km away in Maranello. Most visitors come here not for cars but to see and admire the historic medieval centre, an authentic treasure trove of 12th-century buildings concentrated in an area of not more than 1 square kilometre. Walking at random without map in hand, I found myself a short distance away from La Torre Ghirlandina, an 83m high belfry that is undoubtedly the highlight of any visit to the city. Take the steps to the top and you will be rewarded with outstanding views that can reach out to Bologna and Parma if the weather is fine and the visibility is good. Make your way via the porticoed walkway or otherwise to the adjoining Piazza Grande, a medieval square that is grand not only by reason of its size but more because it represents the wealth of the aristocratic Este family who ruled Modena for almost 3 centuries. The building that caught my attention as soon as I put my feet on the square was definitely Modena's majestic Duomo, a World Heritage Cathedral of outstanding Romanesque architecture. The west facade with a beautiful sculptured doorway guarded by two marble lions and embellished by a set of mural stone bas-reliefs is unquestionably a masterpiece, considered as Lanfranco and Wiligelmo best opus. Move on to the smaller Piazza Duomo where the Cathedral's main doorway exhibits more mural sculptures and a huge rose window whose centrepiece shows the eight-pointed cross usually associated with the Knights of Malta. The external features of Modena's Duomo definitely makes it an edifice of unparalleled Romanesque architecture. But move inside and you will be utterly disappointed. The Romanesque structure, both along the nave (with its perfect rib vaulting) and along the side aisles leaves nothing to be desired but most of the decor is not visibly clear because the interior is dark, sombre and gloomy. The windows on the sides of the nave just below the ceiling are small (as in most Romanesque churches) and do not allow for sunlight to get in. The only source of natural light is the huge rose window but it is definitely not enough. The redeeming factor inside the Cathedral is the crypt behind the high altar. Covered in beautiful marble with designs that at first glance seem to be frescoes, it is much brighter than the Cathedral. The simple stone tomb of San Gemigniano, patron saint of Modena is here, enclosed in a protective glass case. Modena's historic centre is chock-a-block with bars, cafeterias and eateries, most of them atmospheric venues with lots of tables outside. For real atmosphere and great food, unparalleled anywhere in Modena, head to Via Sant'Eufemia or Via Maletesta and enjoy the food, the wine and the ambience. If all this is not enough, walk 200m north on Via Emilia to the Palazzo dei Musei and the adjoining parish church of St Augustine. Inside this extensive museum, you will find most of the treasures (paintings, sculptures, manuscripts) collected by the wealthy Este family who owned the city. You will surely not be disappointed with such a rich collection.