Sushi Gyoten — Restaurant in Fukuoka

Avoid Sushi Gyoten - A Major Letdown

Gyoten moved to a new location and is mysteriously shifting to a members' only restaurant. I was invited by a friend to check it out, and it turned out to be a huge disappointment.

Right after entering the waiting area, the staff hands you a bag and tells you to put your phone inside—no photos allowed (that's fine, maybe they know the food is mediocre and can't stand scrutiny). Then, the chef throws a Japanese document at you, similar to an NDA (confidentiality agreement), and makes you sign it (things started getting absurd). After that, the chef began criticizing our attire. On a 32-degree day, he expected guests who flew in specifically to dine there to wear suits and ties? If he's that strict, he should have a few sets of emergency suits on hand.

The pacing of the meal was extremely slow. None of the skilled assistant chefs I saw at the old shop in February were there; instead, they were replaced by a few female trainees who seemed unfamiliar with everything. The signature tuna sushi was very average, with extremely bland flavor, while the overly salty shari (sushi rice) was like the chef burying his head in the sand—fooling no one.

Then came the highlight: during the meal, we started on our second sake. A middle-aged male server tried to pour it into my used glass. I asked him to change it, and he bluntly said "no change," turned around, and walked off with the bottle. I repeated my request in English, explaining that I didn't want the flavors of the two sakes to mix. He did eventually change the glass, but then started whispering to other guests, saying that their policy is one glass per person, no exceptions. At that point, the chef joined the fray, stating that it's his restaurant, and his rule is that guests must use only one glass for sake, no matter how many varieties they order. He added that if I didn't like his rules, I could leave immediately. He said this isn't China, and customers don't need to be respected, and anyway, he never invited me to become a member.

By then, my stomach was 10% filled with disappointing food and 90% with resentment generated by the arrogant service. The new shop's name has changed from the original "Gyoten" to "Gyouten". That extra "u" definitely doesn't stand for the chef's care...

Phenomenal sushi, naturally. Gyoten is the youngest sushi chef of his acclaim, yet he has held that incredible acclaim for a full decade. He’s also, to my knowledge, one of the few with female apprentices. Just a fun fact since many high profile sushi masters do not train women.

Foreigner friendly. Gyoten himself speaks English quite well. He’s the other side of very high end sushi: while some restaurants feature perfectly choreographed meals, Gyoten is less arranged and slightly more casual. (Very slightly, those unaccustomed to Edo sushi will still find it to be extremely planned.) I don’t prefer one over the other, they’re both excellent. Service is excellent, they swap your drinks as soon as they’re low.

Gyoten stayed really late, until past midnight, just to chat. His expertise and passion for sushi is something to behold, and he’s a pleasure to talk to. I love the Fukuoka sushi masters and would recommend detouring anytime you’re in...

【Checkポイント】 ■ミシュラン三つ星も獲得した福岡の名店 ■コースの所要時間: 2時間30分

鮨屋の家系に生まれ常に進化を追究する孤高の存在 鮨行天 。

薬院駅より徒歩3分の便利なロケーション。

外観は道路沿いに黄色の綺麗な暖簾と石畳のアプローチがある店舗で入口の横にはウェイティングルームも完備されている。

内観はカウンター10席、天井も高く高級感ある凛とした空間が広がる。

行天健二大将は祖父が鮨職人という鮨屋の家系に生まれ、都内で修行を積み、2009年に出身地の山口下関で独立。 その後2012年に福岡へ移転し2014年にはミシュラン三つ星を獲得した名店。 昔とやり方を変えないは退化との考えで常に進化を求めて、鮨に美味しくなれと気持ちを込めて握られた鮨は感動を生む握り。

行天さんのシャリはしっかり握られているが口の中に入れるとふわりと解ける最高級の仕立て、そこに強すぎる仕入れによる最高峰のネタの共演。どちらも完璧なバランスで共鳴し鮨としての完成度の抜群に高く、凄く美味しい。 夏の時期は冬よりシャリの酸味も強く夏の素材に合わせる工夫が施され、この夏の仕入れがきつい時期でも抜群の大間鮪を6貫もいただけた。 伺うハードルは高いがまた伺いたい最高の鮨だった。

■黄韮のお浸し、削りたて鰹節 黄韮の食感と鰹の風味をお出汁とまず楽しむ。

■迷い鰹のタタキ 日本海側の脂の乗ってない身の旨みにフォーカスを当てたレアな迷い鰹はタタキで。味わいの濃さがたまらない。

■気仙沼鮑 噛むと旨みが広がるたまらないムチムチ鮑。

■愛媛真魚鰹 ブリブリの弾力で保水感もあるが旨みもしっかり。

■パプリカジュース 濃厚な味わいでお口をさっぱりと。

■天然岩水雲、山芋、りんご、新銀杏 ネバネバの組み合わせに風味の良い新銀杏と食感とさっぱりさを与えるりんごの絶妙な組み合わせ。

□大間蛇腹 夏なのにこのクオリティの高さ、味のコク深さも香りも素晴らしいしシャリとのバランスも最高。

□大間赤身 味のしっかり乗った赤身で香りが凄くよい。

□大間大トロ 夏らしい酸とさっぱりした脂を楽しめる。

□赤身漬け 香りが抜けて味が伸びる。

□九絵 弾力があり旨みも良い。

□中トロ 舌触りの良さ質感味の余韻がしっかり感じられる。 □中トロ 中トロは2貫いただけた！

□コハダ 酸味も適度で良く身の旨みも凄い。

□鹿児島出水春子 みずみずしく味の余韻を楽しめる春子。

□山口仙崎鯵 香りもよく味がしっかり引き出されている。

□墨烏賊 歯の入る食感から噛むとねっとり甘みもあり胡麻の風味も良い。

□縞鯵 弾力と旨みのバランスが良い。

□鰯 脂の乗り口に広がる香りが最高。

□トロタク手巻き 中落ちを沢庵とネギでいただく間違いない一品。

□天草五和町赤雲丹 雑味なく綺麗で甘さが際立つ。

□穴子 身の旨みふわふわ感味わい深さがたまらない。

□玉子焼き フワフワで海老の香りも良い玉子焼きでコース終了。

おまかせコース ■: 摘み　□: 握り

■黄韮のお浸し、削りたて鰹節 ■迷い鰹のタタキ ■気仙沼鮑 ■愛媛真魚鰹 ■パプリカジュース ■天然岩水雲、山芋、りんご、新銀杏 □大間蛇腹 □大間赤身 □大間大トロ □大間赤身漬け □五島列島九絵 □大間中トロ □大間中トロ □コハダ □鹿児島出水春子 □山口仙崎鯵 □墨烏賊 □縞鯵 □鰯 □トロタク手巻き □天草五和町赤雲丹 □穴子 ■味噌汁 □玉子焼き

◆参考になれば保存頂けますと幸いです◆ instagram: 66shuki Twitter :...