I was stranded in Crewe by the train strikes, and wandering near the station in temperatures of minus nine, I was feeling distinctly grumpy. But I stumbled on Gio’s and my mood was immediately lifted. The first thing I noticed – apart from the warmth, the pleasing décor and the friendly welcome – was that house wine was available in reasonably priced half litre carafes. (I know it’s the same as ordering two large glasses but it just feels so much more Mediterranean to get a carafe). I ordered some house red – an agreeably earthy and robust Sangiovese (though I misidentified it as a Valpolicella on first gulp – but my excuse is that my nose had turned into an icicle and hadn’t yet properly thawed).

It was such a bitterly cold night that I decided something hearty and warming was required – the spicy parsnip soup ticked the box, and so did the beef and pork casseruola with which I followed it. Both had great depth of flavour and were extremely satisfying. The service was also friendly and efficient. I left this restaurant feeling so much better than I entered it – I was almost inclined to think kind thoughts about the striking railway workers, for without them I would not have been here.

I did have just two small quibbles – though I’m still giving five stars. One is the 8% automatic service charge, which is a pet hate of mine. In fact I topped it up to 10%, but had I not been paying cash I would have asked for it to be removed, and left a cash tip instead. (The bill does clearly say you can ask for it to be removed, but many diners find this awkward, and I think it’s a regrettable practice). Also – why is such a charming and delightful kitchen assistant kept scrubbing pots in the background when he should clearly be promoted to front of house where he could deploy his obvious charms to great effect?

This place was so pleasant (and reasonably priced) I might not even need the excuse of a train strike to call by again. (But I still won’t be sending a Christmas card to Mr Lynch at the RMT union).