UNALOME by Graeme Cheevers — Restaurant in Scotland

Quite frankly, embarrassing.

We went for the 6 course tasting menu, with wine flight, and dear goodness were we disappointed. I’ve never left a fine dining restaurant feeling so flat and dissatisfied.

We regularly eat at Michelin star establishments, and we’re quite shocked that this has made the cut. The service was fairly disinterested - despite all of our efforts to captivate the front of house staff with conversation.

The canapes, they were agreeable but not exceptional - from the overpowering cheese with a beetroot meringue to the below standard gougere (our banqueting wedding caterer supplied something 10x the quality). This was followed up by a tuna tartare, which, credit where credit is due, was brilliant. Sadly it was downhill from there - my scallop was stone-cold and raw, whilst my partners was cooked but also cold. Whilst we questioned this with the host, they all argued this was cooked to temperature and nothing was wrong with it. We were repeatedly offered spoons for cold courses, which really produced the feeling of being a toddler eating real food for the first time. The black cauliflower made my mothers cauliflower look raw (and she loves overcooked veg) - we appreciate that cooking out cauliflower can produce a nuttiness, but when you take it too far all is lost, however, thankfully the crispy onions brought a little texture to another lacklustre dish. The cod dish was something that excited us prior to eating, though again this was cold and we were expected to eat with a spoon - upon requesting a fork, we were scowled at, and by the time this came a luke-warm cod was stone cold; the gnocchi that accompanied this was pure stodge and frankly inedible. The remainder of the meal? Backstrap of venison and was sold as fillet, and despite being soux vide was tough - quite an achievement. The rice pudding as a side to rhubarb was cold, and not an experience i wish to repeat (the meringue with cardamon and ginger was lovely, but made unappealing by the rice stodge below).

I first encountered chef in my home village of Benderloch, where he took the Isle of Eriska hotel to Michelin star level. When he was awarded the Michelin star for Unalome, I was very excited to take my fiancée to experience his cooking… unfortunately the experience paled in comparison, and i sincerely wish I could have taken him to...

In Glasgow for other reasons, we found the time to fit in a lunch at Unalome (first time). And what a lovely lunch it was. We went for their three course lunchtime menu, offering a choice between two dishes for each course, currently priced at 55 pp. We opted to have everything between the two of us.

Often you understand at once from the amuse-bouche whether or not you are in for a good treat. Here we were excited after the first bites. Flavours clear, balanced, varied. Technique was on display, and so was creativity. This theme continued throughout the meal.

A superb raviolo with lobster came with a leek fondue and a garlic veloute'. A quail was plump and tender and satisfying, precisely cooked, with earthy aromas of truffle and mushroom suffusing the dish, and a smooth pomme puree. White plums, a small amount of delicious beef tartare and a very well-made brioche provided perfect support for a foie gras ballottine. Finally (for the savouries) a "bouillabaisse" brought the biggest surprise as it was a very cheffy affair---but definitely without losing sight of the substance, which was wonderful seafood produce and flavour, once again with meticulously precise cooking.

I'm generally not one for desserts, but both a set cream of tonka beans featuring apricots, citrus and Sauterne in various forms, and a Valrhona chocolate coulant with cherries also in various forms, struck me for the richness and balance of flavours. Like in the earlier part of the meal, there were so many details in these dishes beside the central ingredient that showed true love for the craft beside mastery.

The pricing for this quality is very friendly, as were all the members of the front of house staff. There are higher priced menus (100 and 135 pp) with more luxury ingredients, but even this was an almost perfect lunch. Only the timing of service from the kitchen needs improvement---waiting times between courses were erratic, varying from 5 minutes to almost half an hour.

You always expect to eat at least decently in Michelin starred venues, but banality and form-over-substance are always around the corner, so even by those standards I was surprised on the upside at Unalome....

Tasting menu with wine pairing

Felt rushed.

Been to quite a few Michelin restaurants, and I was looking forward to the eating at Unalome.

Arrived at 5.22pm with table booked at 5.30pm.

Was asked if we could go for a drink downstairs at the Big Slope as the Kitchen wasn't ready yet.

I felt as though they could have easily have allowed us to sit at the table and bring water etc, by that point it would have been 5.30pm.

No one asked to take jackets on arrival.

Secondly, the rectangular table, I didn't like ... felt out of place, and not welcoming.

Eating, Service.

First few dishes, looked and tasted fantastic. Presentation on the plate was excellent.

As soon as we finished a dish however, the next dish was brought out, including the wine pairing, we weren't getting time to just sit and enjoy the moment.

It got to such a point my two friends had to stop eating their meal so that we could have some time to enjoy the wine, as we now had started to collect several glasses.

When I have dined at other locations, its a slower pace, I don't feel as though they are trying to turn the table.

It got to a point whereby the actual dish had arrived before the wine!

The eating was generally good except for the Halibut dish, where the fish was dry and must have been sitting on the pass, my friends fish was also like this.

The dessert, which I felt was very poor, consisted of a few strawberries with a glaze, and three different consistencies of cream, and a few crumbs which was meant to be a crumble. Needed a biscuit.

Don't really feel compelled to go back. Better eating in Edinburgh for the same price.

In saying that, its a young kitchen, and I hope they find their feet. It does feel as though something is...