The Malvern — Restaurant in Asheville

Atmosphere at Little Louie's Hoagies & Pierogies? Very dive bar cool.

Service? Friendly and helpful.

Prices? Fairly reasonable for these times.

Food. Meh.

I was eager to try this newish spot from the former co-owner of highly rated Buxton Barbecue, but it didn't turn out so well. Maybe I just didn't know what to order. I guess I'll try it again.

I don't know how much time Louie's owner Elliott Moss, who hails from Florence, South Carolina, has spent in Pittsburgh or Cleveland or Poland or Ukraine, where pierogi (yes, that's the plural of pieróg in Polish) are famous. Here, ours with potato and cheese ($11) was totally unlike the classic style, which traditionally features dumplings filled with mashed potatoes and cheese, boiled, then lightly fried and served with onions and butter. What we had was a clump of pale white dough, not fried, with a small layer of potatoes and some kind of cheese on top, and no onions.

Our beef brisket and cheese hoagie ($16.49) was messy to eat and looked like the filling was whipped up in a blender. Nothing like the famous hoagies in Phillie or elsewhere in Pennsylvania.

Louie's fries ($7.95 for a large serving) were well cooked but oddly topped with pesto and served with a small cup of marinara sauce. I guess that's what a chef calls "creative," but frankly I'd rather have just good fries.

There are just four drafts on the drink menu ($5 or $6), plus a selection of cans and bottles. I had the Green Man porter. The booze is well priced, with gin, vodka and bourbon mostly under $10.

Again, I love the dive bar atmosphere, much of it left over from the former bar here, The Malvern. There's a silver-painted high tin ceiling, dark blue walls, funky booths and even taxidermy on the walls. Drink prices are very reasonable. But as for the food, I'd rather have a classic burger and fries, rather than a phony pierogi or a hokey hoagie.

Maybe next time I should try the smoked wings or the egg plant hoagie.

Little Louie's could become a top neighborhood spot in West Asheville, if management rethinks...

The brisket & cheese was everything I needed it to be.

Fear not: Malvern Tavern hasn't gone anywhere. It's just got a new sign, a new food menu, and checkered tablecloths. Everything you (I) loved about the Malvern seems to still be here.

The pierogi is incredible. Full of creamy potato, cooked through but not soggy. The pork and brisket in the all-the-meats-sauce that was their weekend special was incredible. The red sauce was perfect. The combination of pierogi and red sauce was genius. The cannoli filling is gritty, skip that. The bartenders are still the best. The parking lot is still Tetris.

Going back to try the philly next.

I have MISSED dive bars.

Inside: devoid of windows, wonderfully dark Outside: just enough seating that someone is going to be smoking

Bartender: perfection. chased down a patron who forgot their card

Drink: Narragansett, Jameson, beet juice pickle back Food: Caribbean tempeh bowl. It was about as Caribbean as I am, but still made very well

Yeah, I went when the sun was shining and 84°, but it...

The Malvern is back! The Lemon Pepper wings with celery and blue cheese and waffle fries on Superbowl night were excellent!

Update: the smash burger is a joy to behold, and the fries take me to a comfortable lodge high up on the mountain in the middle of winter with a roaring fire in the fireplace. Needless to say, not a crumb remained in the basket. The chef takes your enjoyment seriously and keeps it dialed in. Heart and soul.

Another update: animal style fries are kick ass

Don't underestimate the fortitude of the Corn Dog Tower. This is a serious stack of six deep fried corn dogs and a veritable mountain of parmesan fries (or upgrade to Goblin Fries.) Fortune cookies found on the top level are a great addition.

Another update: no surprise here, but the Caesar Salad with Chicken really slaps. Add a corndog and some fries, and you have a veritable feast ahead.

If you want advanced kitchen wizardry without all of the fanfare, you...