A Heritage Walk Through Ghalib In Chandni Chowk
It was a sweltering summer afternoon in Delhi, the kind where the sun doesn’t just shine,it scorches.
The narrow streets of Chandni Chowk felt even tighter, more crowded, more alive. But I had signed up for this ,a heritage walk in search of stories. And one story or rather, one soul had brought me here. Mirza Ghalib.
The walk had begun near Town Hall, weaving through lanes bursting with colour, chaos, and centuries of history.
The guide spoke of Mughal rulers and fading facades, but in my head, one sher whispered louder than the heat:
“Umar bhar Ghalib yehi bhool karta raha, dhool chehre pe thi, aur aina saaf karta raha…” (All his life, Ghalib kept making the same mistake ,the dust was on his face, and he kept cleaning the mirror.)
By the time we reached Ballimaran, the sun was relentless. Shops lined both sides ,the lehengas, the sherwani,Artificial jewellery shops,small eateries sizzling with jalebis and lemonade 🍋 . And then, suddenly, the guide stopped and pointed. “Yeh rahi,Ghalib ki haveli.” There it was. Tucked into a narrow by-lane, shadowed by an old concrete Ghalib’s Haveli. The gate stood open like an invitation. And I stepped in.
Inside, the air felt cooler, quieter. The noise of Chandni Chowk faded behind those walls. The haveli was humble, with arches and tiled flooring, now preserved as a small museum. But the presence of the poet ,his loneliness, his brilliance ,lingered in every corner.
On the wall was a line written in delicate script: “Hazaaron khwahishen aisi, ke har khwahish pe dam nikle…” (Thousands of desires, each worth dying for…)
It hit harder in the heat ,because walking these lanes, sweating and exhausted, I felt the weight of his world. Ghalib had lived here during a time of immense change ,the fall of the Mughal Empire, personal tragedies, and financial struggles. And yet, in all that, he wrote,with unmatched wit, elegance, and pain.
The statue of Ghalib sat quietly in a corner, gazing into the past. His eyes seemed to follow me. Maybe amused. Maybe just tired of visitors. I smiled.
The haveli is now a small museum, holding a statue of Ghalib, some letters, his handwriting, and illustrations of his life. It’s quiet, almost reverent, as if Delhi itself pauses here to remember
Walking back out into the sun,I noticed how Ballimaran carried on ,loud, busy, beautiful. Children laughed in narrow corridors, a chaiwala shouted for change, a rickshaw pulled through honking scooters.
But for me, the day had changed. The day was still hot. The sweat still clung. But now, every drop felt like an offering to the poet who had once walked these very streets,broken, brilliant, and burning with sher after sher.
That day,I didn’t just walk through heat. I walked through Ghalib.
No ticket...
Read moreGETTING THERE The nearest metro station to the museum of Ghalib is Chawri Bazar from where you can either walk to the haveli or take a rickshaw.
THINGS TO DO IN & AROUND GHALIB HAVELI The museum tries to recreate the life of the famous poet. You can witness his traditional attire and his favourite cuisines. There is also a portrait of the Mirza Ghalib. The haveli is situated in the heritage neighbourhood of Old Delhi. You can explore the nearby monuments like Red Fort and Jama Masjid. If you are looking to shop in Old Delhi, there are various markets in Chandni Chowk and nearby areas. Old Delhi is also famous for its street foods and eating joints like Paranthe Wali Gali. There is also a national library in Chandni Chowk. There are also spiritual worshipping places of various religion - Hindu, Jain, Muslim, Christian, Sikh. Ballimaran is also famous for its eyewear shopping and shoe shopping.
OPENING AND CLOSING TIMING OF GHALIB HAVELI The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 5 pm.
ENTRY FEES There is no entry fee for Ghalib Haveli
BEST TIME TO VISIT GHALIB HAVELI Though it’s open throughout the year, the best time to visit is during winters as the summers in Delhi is pretty hot.
Amidst the bustling streets of Ballimaran, famous for its shoes and eyewear market, lies the quaint Haveli which once housed India’s finest poet, Mirza Asadullah Khan, also known as Mirza Ghalib. There are numerous ancient havelis in the old city of Delhi and on the first appearance there is nothing unique about Mirza Ghalib Haveli, except for the fact that it was an abode of finest Urdu poetry. Mirza Ghalib is believed to have spent his final days in the Haveli before his death in 1869. The haveli originally belonged to a physician who was an ardent fan of the legend. Once, Mirza Ghalib died and the owner of the haveli dies, the house has witnessed numerous residents. Today, a forgotten museum in Delhi dedicated to Mirza Ghalib, the house has been a witness of the creation of various famous poetry.
Mirza Ghalib was born to Mirza Abdullah Beg in 1797 in the alluring city of Agra. Ghalib’s father died when Ghalib was 5 years old. Ghalib was married to Umrao Begum at the age of 13, Ghalib left Agra to move to Delhi, where he spent all his time until his death in 1869. Ghalib witnessed the political shift from Mughal to British Era and his poetry beautiful depicted this change. Ghalib till date is a world-renowned figure and a major contributor to promoting Urdu poetry and Shayari. Ghalib’s physical presence may have ceased to exist but his works, preserved in books are some of the most sold books...
Read moreHaveli Mirza Ghalib, nestled in the vibrant lanes of Old Delhi, is a hidden gem that transports visitors to a bygone era of poetry, art, and rich cultural heritage. As a patron of this enchanting establishment, I was captivated by the authentic ambiance, exquisite architecture, and the immersive experience it offers.
Stepping into Haveli Mirza Ghalib is like entering a time capsule that preserves the spirit of the legendary poet Mirza Ghalib. The meticulously restored haveli (mansion) exudes a nostalgic charm, reminiscent of the poet’s era. The elegant courtyards, intricate arches, and beautifully adorned interiors create an aura of refined elegance and artistic splendor.
The establishment’s dedication to promoting Urdu literature and preserving Mirza Ghalib’s legacy is truly commendable. The intimate setting of the haveli provides a perfect backdrop for cultural events, ghazal evenings, and poetry recitals that celebrate the rich literary heritage of the region. It is a haven for poetry enthusiasts and art connoisseurs, offering a platform for established and emerging artists to showcase their talents.
The traditional Mughlai cuisine served at Haveli Mirza Ghalib is a culinary delight that tantalizes the taste buds. The flavorsome dishes, prepared with authentic recipes and a touch of artistic presentation, offer a gastronomic journey that complements the overall experience. The attentive staff adds a personal touch, ensuring a memorable dining experience.
What sets Haveli Mirza Ghalib apart is the warm hospitality and impeccable service provided to its guests. The staff members are knowledgeable, friendly, and passionate about sharing the history and significance of the haveli. Their dedication to creating a welcoming and immersive environment contributes to the overall charm and authenticity of the experience.
The location of Haveli Mirza Ghalib in Old Delhi adds to its allure. Its proximity to other historical sites and bustling markets allows visitors to explore the rich cultural tapestry of the area, making it an ideal destination for both locals and tourists seeking an authentic and memorable experience.
In summary, Haveli Mirza Ghalib is a cultural gem that transports visitors to the enchanting world of Urdu poetry and Mughal elegance. Its exquisite architecture, soul-stirring performances, delectable cuisine, and warm hospitality create an unforgettable experience that pays homage to the great poet Mirza Ghalib. A visit to this haveli is a journey through time, immersing oneself in the art, literature, and traditions that define the rich heritage...
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