Mercado 20 de Noviembre — Attraction in Oaxaca

HOW TO NAVIGATE SMOKE ALLEY

Definitely a foodie paradise, this is a massive prepared food market - no produce stand, trinkets, etc.. you have to go to Mercado Benito Juarez for that across the street. We came here with a guide ("how to eat like a local" guide found on airbnb experiences), and we tried a few things around here, we even came back another day to try more b/c there's honestly no way to try everything in one go.

There does seem to be a whole lot of the same type of stalls though. It was a bit overwhelming, but I noticed them grouped into the following: soups (menudo - specifically, organ soups), bread stalls, and "everything" family restaurant stalls (tlayuda, tamale, all the "mole" items, hot chocolate with buns, chile rellano, chilaqueles etc) PLUS the famous smoke alley, where you wander down an alley filled with meat vendors and they grill it for you. I'll include info on how to navigate smoke alley, because there's no way I could have done this without our guide b/c there's a system.

So smoke alley - There are 4 parts to this area that all work together.

Once you enter, everyone will be trying to shove a green or red basket in your hands. Green belongs to condiment vendor 1, red belongs to vendor 2. Each vendor offers different sides (salsas, sauces, onions, pickles), but once you take their basket, you can only buy condiments from them. I recommend the red side - they had way more stuff. BUT - first bring your basket to the meat guy, then pick your condiments at the end.

Bring your basket and to a meat vendor. I don't have a rec on a stall, but just pick one. I tried a lot of meats, they are sold by the kilo. You could get 1/4 or 1/2 kilo and ask for mixed meats. I personally liked the chorizo over everything else, but its good to try stuff. They'll hang onto your your basket (the meat is served in this) and bring it to you if you're planning to eat at the tables at the front.

Tortillas - there are tortilla ladies wandering around. you can stop them to buy tortillas from them. Or you can communicate to your meat guy that you want tortillas, and he'll get the ladies to throw some on your basket.

Wander back to the front and get a table - sit down, and order a drink. No drink, no table.

Go to your condiments vendor and pick out whatever sides you want to bring back to your table.

Each 4 of these parts are meant to be paid separately ,sometimes tortillas + meat are paid together. I'm not sure how to figure that out but thats what my guide...

Came here to eat at the "callejon de humo" or "the smoke alley" in English. It was delicious! It is basically an alley where they have little stands where you pick a combo of fresh meats. Your choices are chorizo, seasoned thinly sliced pork and thinly sliced beef. It is sold by weight. So, it might be a bit overwhelming because as you are walking down the alley every vendor is in your face trying to shove their menu into your hands and offering you a table. Don't panic like I did, every stand is basically the same thing. If you love the chaos just pick a menu and order, you will be squeezed into a seating area with complete strangers, but that is half the experience. Otherwise go to the end where it is much more calm, depending on what way you walked in. You pick a combo, they are numbered, you take a seat and while you wait they bring out a platter with all your "sides" like guacamole, salsa, grilled onions or grilled peppers, limes and other stuff. You pick what you want, it is 20 pesos a side. Then you pick your drinks. Don't forget your tortillas, they are massive!! Also sold as a side, mine where 3 for 10 pesos I believe. Anyways, it was super yummy and fun once I recovered from all the yelling 🤣 hope this helps, I like to know what...

Mercados 20 de Noviembre y Benito Juárez. Uno enfrente del otro. Así que es natural la visita ambos. Pocos lugares como estos, de excelencia en atención, productos locales , extrema limpieza y saludables. La comida una gran variedad: típicos chapulines en distintas presentaciones para condimentos y degustación directa. Gran variedad de moles : coloradito, negro, negro almendrado...y la lista sigue. Con pollo o tasajo( res), cecina ( cerdo y res).. Arroz...y los tradicionales chocolates oaxaqueños: con leche ( frío , caliente), champurrado, simplemente solo con agua como bebida refrescante... Chiles rellenos, capeados, sin capear, carne molida de res, de pollo ( una imperceptible salsa roja que la da un toque especial de sabor, con pasas...desgraciadamente ya no elaboran el chile relleno con piezas de acitron y pasas, una verdadera delicia en los 60s y 70s. Tortillas una amplísima variedad: totopitos( sin perforaciones como en el Istmo de Tehuantepec) , las famosas tlayudas calientes o bien crujientes...sin embargo, pónganse un limite...o suben de peso...... Los tamales oaxaqueños...todos los conocemos.. Pero aquí están los auténticos en hoja de plátano y hoja de aguacate...de mole con pollo.. Dejando a un lado los formalismos...todos juntos en una barra de atención...antebrazo contra antebrazo...y sillas altas.. Una delicia...verdaderamente una experiencia de decenas de sabores.. Finamente una pieza de pan..aunque el estado y sus regiones producen una gran variedad: pan giapa..el marquezote recibe una gran excelencia...pero Debes consumirlo con una bebida necesariamente, por su sequedad y densidad...cuidado..debes consumirlo con una bebida: chocolate en sus variedades o café. En el Istmo, el marquezote se decora con dulce de colores..adjunto fotos de algunos platillos y fotos del ambiente general en el mercado.

Posteriormente visite el mercado de insumos...un am biente dinámico...se vende desde oro de los famosos " collares o ahogadores " aretes...utilizados en las fiestas de " Mayordomía" en el Istmo. Alebrijes modestos de diseño incluso de nivel medio ...para todos los bolsillos...ya que los de alto diseño requiere de una visita de lugares con talleres de diseño artistico alto que alcanzan , varias decenas de miles de pesos mexicanos...de una belleza excepcional que requiere de una visita.. Un elemento único y que define la diferencia entre los moles distintos es el " chile"...en este mercado encontrarás estos en amplísima variedad...así como las recetas de cocina para mexicanos, que permiten elaborar un mole casero...

También podrás encontrar algunos Mezcales desde el típico espadin hasta el de agave silvestre que puede llegar a costar varios Miles de pesos mexicanos...pero de esto me ocupé en dos recorridos a las zonas de los llamados " Palenques" o ranchos de cosecha de agaves y elaboración de Mezcales. Es necesario dedicar después de desayunar por acá...dedicar hasta tres horas para visitar a los dos mercados y comprar algunos productos de interés...

Muchas Felicidades, mucho éxito a todos los locatarios...aquí en una de las cunas de la cocina...