Bouldering Project - Eckington — Attraction in Washington

Average bouldering gym that has a lot of potential. Very large space, but very little climbing.

The exercise area is huge, probably two or three times larger than most climbing gyms of similar size. The main climbing area (the east wing) is about the same size as the exercise area, and much of the main climbing area has no walls in favor of space for slackline, ping pong, and empty space. The empty space would be valuable if it kept people from sitting on the mats, crowding the wallls, but it doesn't.

There's a wall on one side and two boulder islands, with a gap in the middle and plate glass windows on the opposite side. Instead of prioritizing a view into the gym and non-climbing activities in this area, the slack-line and ping-pong could be moved elsewhere, the boulder islands could be closer to the exterior wall, and more wall could be built in between. The exterior glass wall looking into the airy bouldering area and the exercise area gives the impression that potential for climbing has been sacrificed for aesthetics and the possibility to be seen by passersby.

The other side of the gym features a ramp with a continuous overhang above it, a training area (Kilter board, campus board, etc.) and two small slab areas, one of which has a very tight layout that forces crowding. The main climbing area also gets very crowded, in part due to chokepoints between the main wall and the two boulder islands, and in part because of people simply crowding the walls (probably since the climbable area is so limited).

Beside adopting a more efficient layout in the climbing areas to fit more climbing, the exercise area is also suitably tall for climbing and could be converted in part or in total. The space under the ramp that is currently a cramped slab climbing area would be suitable for a more modest exercise area, more similar in size to other climbing gyms. Meanwhile, there is a space with a large table for people to work, spaces with couches and chairs for people to relax, etc. I know many people appreciate these amenities and this style, but I would prefer for the climbing gym to be more focused on climbing. If the gym would like to offer ping pong, then let it compete with space for working remotely or lounging rather than climbing space.

Due to the limited climbing, it is very easy to climb out the whole gym between sets and be waiting for several sessions to even have one or two new boulders to challenge yourself with. I end up spending a significant amount of sessions on the Kilter board to avoid the chokepoints and crowding, but also to simply have new problems to try.

I've seen much smaller gyms manage to set as many problems as this gym by adopting efficient layout and wall geometry (e.g. GP-81 in NYC, Rock Oasis in Toronto, The Circuit Bouldering Gym in Portland, the list goes on).

Unfortunately the reality of the situation is that it's the best DC has to offer by virtue of being the only climbing gym in DC proper; unbelievable. Traveling to other gyms will require you to negotiate beltway traffic, which means you might be driving or taking the train up to an hour or more each way to get in a session after work. Not practical.

P.S. This gym occasionally hosts birthday parties and allows them to climb in the main climbing area. IMO no gym should, and many don't. Those that don't seem to manage financially just fine. I have no problem with youth climbers, but kids coming to a birthday party do not understand etiquette and safety, and parents frequently (and often even gym staff) seem uninterested in enforcing discipline, even in dangerous situations.

P.P.S. This is a nitpick, but the hold library seems limited. Almost every time a problem of a particular color comes down, a new one goes up using very similar holds. For example, for the past month or two there has been two pink problems composed of large slopers and one pink problem composed of small edges. Grading is by color, so there may never be a "pink difficulty" problem...

I want to love this place, I really do. But there are so many things that make we want to change back to my old gym. I just want to start off that the staff are dope, the artwork is awesome, and the location is great.

Talking with other climbers, we all collectively agree that this rock gym feels like a normal gym with some rock climbing in it. The sauna, studio rooms, and small gym are all good stuff, but I feel like it takes more of the spotlight and space for what could be rock climbing specific.

The first concern I have is the routes/problems in the gym. The A,B,C grading is cool, but why change from the "V" grading system when it works perfectly fine. Also even with the current grading system, the routes aren't even consistent in their respective difficulty. I have read some comments concerning the grading and why it matters. I believe the grading system matters because it's what is used most across the US and if someone wants to visit another gym or even climb outside they would know roughly of their capabilities. Maybe the grading is the way it is because the route setters couldn't pinpoint accurately to the "V" system, I don't know. Secondly, there isn't a lot of space to begin with since its taken up by other stuff that I feel isn't needed (kids gym, 2 studio rooms, etc). There is like no room to climb when multiple people are on the wall. The problem isn't the amount of people, but the fact that routes have to span across other routes due to compensation on poorly used space. This makes people have to end mid way through a send just to let someone else complete. Thirdly, I don't know if setters are just going for aesthetics, but I wish the gym had more diversity in its routes. The holds are the same throughout almost all the routes. Along with that, there are barely any crimps in this gym. Like What!? I am by no means an expert in route setting, but I am begging for more diversity.

As I stated in the beginning, the staff are awesome, kind, and welcoming. But after talking with a majority of them, I have noticed that they either started out climbing or haven't climbed at all. This is frustrating because I've seen staff members give false advise on climbing. I don't think it's safe or reliable for novice climbers to train/teach new people. I also asked for a belt to do weighted campus training/pull-ups and the staff had no idea what that was. In addition, the staff had no idea what climbing tape was or even sold it.

Long story short for the weight training area, it sucks. No duplicates of dumbbells and little space to workout. Also, there are no mirrors to check form. Im also curious on why this place doesn't have more climbing specific training areas. Like pinch blocks, more pull up bars, belts for weighted training, a pully system to help with pull ups, etc. Again, its dope for studio rooms but 2! Why!? That space could be used for climbing specific training.

I understand that one of the goals is to be beginner friendly, but I feel like this place can do that while accommodating the experienced climbers. I hate to be so negative on this place, but I am not confident that this will make me a better climber. Like myself and others, we want to go this place because its so close to our homes in DC. But each time we go, the drive/bike ride to Earth Treks Crystal city doesn't seem as...

Edit 8.10.22- old review deleted

Since the SBP acquisition I’ve seen some great improvements, now opens at 6:00am (huge!), the silly “Xboards” are being torn down, hiring of female route setter. All great things! There are still some things I would like to see improved to be a 5-star gym.

Route setting has improved a lot since the gym opened. This may be, in part, due to getting the route-setters a wider variety of holds. In recent months, there have even been more technical slabs on the slab walls. Much appreciated, route-setting team! Ya’ll are great!

For a 5-star review, I would like to see:

Greater safety training for new climbers or a way to prevent people from walking under me when I climb. Too dangerous, and happens too often at DCBP. New climbers are great, we need to welcome them by teaching good safety practices!

Better use of space- maybe put up another wall.

A training area with multiple hangboards and a spray-wall.

Turn down the heat, especially in the winter. Why pay for heating to make the gym over 90F in the winter? Open the garage doors, and you can make it the perfect temp (cold) for free!

Daily cleaning of the yoga room floor. Its nasty, I use a saniwipe to clean the floor around my mat before I do yoga, and still is gross.

Greater communication from MGMT. An employee theft using master key of climber belongings out of a locked locker rattled my confidence in accountability systems. I no longer trust the lockers. Others at gym are concerned, too. Communicate with us about what happened, and how we can be sure it wont happen again! Maybe need managerial approval for master key, or video-log of master key, or something!

Turn down the volume. Often, I can’t even hear my buddy who is right next to me over the music. It hurts my ears, too. It’s a bouldering gym, not a night club.

Sell useful stuff at the front (books, chalk, tape, brushes) when I need things, you don’t have them, so I buy from REI. I wouldn’t mind paying an extra dollar to buy them at the gym… if the gym sold these things.

Add more brushes! I can never seem to find one, and usually climb a nearby route and use my hand brush to clean.

More pull-up bars!

More yoga classes! Also Genevieve, specifically, is an outstanding instructor but only teaches once per week. She’s awesome! When you get outstanding instructors, make the most of them!

Pare down some weirdly specific gym equipment, like the rope-pull. I’d rather have more space in the gym.

There are awesome boulders in MD, PA and WV. The DCBP community is largely disconnected from them. Help connect the community. Bouldering is...