Okunoin Hotel Tokugawa — Hotel in Nikko

If you are looking for a traditional Japanese resort experience in an area laden with history and lore, this is the place to book: rooms with tatami beds and sliding partitions, private and public hot springs, relax rooms, lounges and an inner landscaped garden dotted with fish ponds and interesting vegetation. Plus, of course, today’s necessities like Wi-Fi, climate control, sentient toilet seats and a full array of quality complimentary cosmetics. Based upon a casual observation, the place seems to target primarily couples looking for rest and relaxation, but worked just as well for our family of four, which includes two teenagers. As everywhere else we went, the staff was always very attentive and ready to assist however possible.|LOCATION: offering both privacy and convenience, the hotel is located along an unassuming country road, a ten minute walk from the main thoroughfare connecting Nikko with Lake Chōzenji and served by local buses, with a stop just 100 meters down the road. Buses generally run two or three times an hour, but without a regular pattern, so plan accordingly (the front desk, of course, has all the schedules and route information handy). The hotel is also within walking distance of the shrine complex that is Nikko’s main attraction.|ROOM: we spent two nights in an Aqua Deluxe Suite, which accommodates four guests in two separate partitioned areas, one with Western beds and the other with tatami beds set up every night. The room also features a sitting room and separate toilet, sink and shower areas. We had to be a little creative in storing our suitcases (pack lightly when travelling around Japan!) but the room actually offered more storage space than initially observed. The key feature of the room is an outdoor hot bath tub overlooking a private man-made pond closed off by a wall, offering complete privacy. After a day of hikes, it was a pleasure to soak in the tub surrounded by nothing but the sound of cascading water and chirping insects.|AMENITIES: breakfast and dinner were included in the room rate, and I recommend taking full advantage of them. All the meals, with a set rotating menu, offered a great variety of what we took as local fish, meat and vegetable dishes, all prepared with quality ingredients and artfully served in private rooms. And don’t be deceived by the small portions: you will end up eating a lot! All meals are served at fixed hours, requiring advance reservations. The hot springs offer both indoors and outdoor basins: in a place like this, just wear the hotel-provided yukata and slippers and embrace the Japanese way...

If you are looking for a traditional Japanese resort experience in an area laden with history and lore, this is the place to book: rooms with tatami beds and sliding partitions, private and public hot springs, relax rooms, lounges and an inner landscaped garden dotted with fish ponds and interesting vegetation. Plus, of course, today’s necessities like Wi-Fi, climate control, sentient toilet seats and a full array of quality complimentary cosmetics. Based upon a casual observation, the place seems to target primarily couples looking for rest and relaxation, but worked just as well for our family of four, which includes two teenagers. As everywhere else we went, the staff was always very attentive and ready to assist however possible. LOCATION: offering both privacy and convenience, the hotel is located along an unassuming country road, a ten minute walk from the main thoroughfare connecting Nikko with Lake Chōzenji and served by local buses, with a stop just 100 meters down the road. Buses generally run two or three times an hour, but without a regular pattern, so plan accordingly (the front desk, of course, has all the schedules and route information handy). The hotel is also within walking distance of the shrine complex that is Nikko’s main attraction. ROOM: we spent two nights in an Aqua Deluxe Suite, which accommodates four guests in two separate partitioned areas, one with Western beds and the other with tatami beds set up every night. The room also features a sitting room and separate toilet, sink and shower areas. We had to be a little creative in storing our suitcases (pack lightly when travelling around Japan!) but the room actually offered more storage space than initially observed. The key feature of the room is an outdoor hot bath tub overlooking a private man-made pond closed off by a wall, offering complete privacy. After a day of hikes, it was a pleasure to soak in the tub surrounded by nothing but the sound of cascading water and chirping insects. AMENITIES: breakfast and dinner were included in the room rate, and I recommend taking full advantage of them. All the meals, with a set rotating menu, offered a great variety of what we took as local fish, meat and vegetable dishes, all prepared with quality ingredients and artfully served in private rooms. And don’t be deceived by the small portions: you will end up eating a lot! All meals are served at fixed hours, requiring advance reservations. The hot springs offer both indoors and outdoor basins: in a place like this, just wear the hotel-provided yukata and slippers and embrace the Japanese way...

If you're looking for a way to experience Japanese hospitality in its ultimate form, this hotel is a strong contender. You can expect eager, thoughtful and personalized service from start to finish in a place which is unmistakably Japanese.

The team, the onsen and the food were the clear highlights.

The service level borders on prescient - when your hosts are so effortlessly in command of their duty, it becomes very easy to relax and enjoy every detail.

An onsen of this size, especially with such a beautiful outdoor area, is rare (especially in this mid-range price bracket). It was unusual not to be the only guest in there, no matter the time of day. The private onsens proved too hot to enjoy (42 degrees) and not worth the cost as the shared one is always so tranquil.

Dinner is served as an all-bells-and-whistles kaiseki in a private room. The talent, creativity and effort that goes into every dish is simply staggering. You'll eat your way through 15+ different small dishes which concludes with rice and miso soup, so obviously some thing will be more to your taste than others. Breakfast is served as a set which will be waiting for you in your dining room at the agreed time. It is expected that you wear yukata at all times within the hotel, including when dining.

The location is perhaps the only downside: as Nikko is overwhelmed by visitors at the moment, absolutely all busses towards Chuzenji are full by the time they reach the stop nearest this hotel (even during my visit in low season). Your only chance of getting on is by taking a walk, bus or taxi down to the terminus and catching the first bus of the day.  Taxis are well used so need to be booked in advance to avoid a long wait, but the hotel reception was very helpful in that regard. Otherwise it's an easy and beautiful stroll to the main sights around Nikko, but consider wearing reflectors and a using a torch after dark: the short stretch between the hotel and main road has no footpath. The upside of this less central location are the hotel's spaciousness and the staggeringly beautiful garden. You come to hotels like this seeking escapism, and a few minutes walking around the koi pond ensures...