Kanaguya — Hotel in Yamanouchi

Kanaguya is a Ryokan that goes back 250 years, which is famous amongst the Japanese (construction completed in 1936). It’s officially recognized as a ‘Cultural Asset’ and is a labyrinth-like museum and luxury accommodation. Not many westerners know of this place, as you won’t find it on most travel websites, but I assure you it is worth the effort to make a booking (Asian travel sites, or directly on their website).||||This is by far the best accommodation in the area, offering various unique, incredibly spacious and engrossingly historic rooms. Wander the many halls and passageways laden with artwork and antiques, and pop you head in at various common areas along the way – that alone is both fascinating and entertaining.||||One of the main attractions of Kanaguya is the 8 different Onsen (hot baths) located within the facility, as well as access to the dozen or so Onsen found throughout the village (only available to those staying overnight). The town is quaint, full of Temples, Shrines and funs stops like the Shooting Gallery, Sake Museum/Bar and Craft Brewery/Restaurant, just to name a few attractions. The showstopper however is the nearby Jigokudani Monkey Park, the only place in the world to see the snow monkeys. Shibu Onsen is the closest village to the park. Most tourists take day-trips from elsewhere, by doing so these oblivious hoards are missing out.||||The meals are included ta Kanaguya and they’re nothing short of amazing (this renders the overall price fairly reasonable, when all is said and done). Served in the traditional-style dining hall, they are Kaiseki-style and over the top. The many dishes are beautiful, delicious and served in generous proportions far too voluminous for any appetite – reams of Wagyu beef, Abalone, Shrimp, other local delicacies abound. We foodies had to wave the white flag more than once, because we just couldn’t eat another bite. Another part of the charm was wearing Yukata’s (provided in your room) to all meals – breakfast and dinner. This seemed strange at first, but we warmed to the idea once we recognized that it added an additional element of enjoyment, immersing us completely into the cultural experience.||||The service was just as impressive, with an incredibly responsive and friendly staff that spoke more English than we initially expected. They even provide a regular shuttle to the main train station in the neighbouring town, which made our departure far more convenient.||||The only word of caution I would extend is that Ryokans are for the more adventurous soul. If you get frazzled when your accommodations aren’t Sheraton-like, this might not be the place for you. Japanese futons aren’t that far off from camping (sleeping on a quilted mat, directly on the floor). Most chairs have no legs and the tables are low. There’s no shower in the rooms and the bath is shaped like a walk-in tub – without the door. If you like trying something a little different for a few days, you’ll love Kanaguya; but if you can’t be without your home comforts and are unsteady on your feet, you’ll feel quite differently. As for us (in our mid-50s) – we thank our lucky stars that we had such an intriguing and authentic experience during our...

Kanaguya is a Ryokan that goes back 250 years, which is famous amongst the Japanese (construction completed in 1936). It’s officially recognized as a ‘Cultural Asset’ and is a labyrinth-like museum and luxury accommodation. Not many westerners know of this place, as you won’t find it on most travel websites, but I assure you it is worth the effort to make a booking (Asian travel sites, or directly on their website).||||This is by far the best accommodation in the area, offering various unique, incredibly spacious and engrossingly historic rooms. Wander the many halls and passageways laden with artwork and antiques, and pop you head in at various common areas along the way – that alone is both fascinating and entertaining.||||One of the main attractions of Kanaguya is the 8 different Onsen (hot baths) located within the facility, as well as access to the dozen or so Onsen found throughout the village (only available to those staying overnight). The town is quaint, full of Temples, Shrines and funs stops like the Shooting Gallery, Sake Museum/Bar and Craft Brewery/Restaurant, just to name a few attractions. The showstopper however is the nearby Jigokudani Monkey Park, the only place in the world to see the snow monkeys. Shibu Onsen is the closest village to the park. Most tourists take day-trips from elsewhere, by doing so these oblivious hoards are missing out.||||The meals are included ta Kanaguya and they’re nothing short of amazing (this renders the overall price fairly reasonable, when all is said and done). Served in the traditional-style dining hall, they are Kaiseki-style and over the top. The many dishes are beautiful, delicious and served in generous proportions far too voluminous for any appetite – reams of Wagyu beef, Abalone, Shrimp, other local delicacies abound. We foodies had to wave the white flag more than once, because we just couldn’t eat another bite. Another part of the charm was wearing Yukata’s (provided in your room) to all meals – breakfast and dinner. This seemed strange at first, but we warmed to the idea once we recognized that it added an additional element of enjoyment, immersing us completely into the cultural experience.||||The service was just as impressive, with an incredibly responsive and friendly staff that spoke more English than we initially expected. They even provide a regular shuttle to the main train station in the neighbouring town, which made our departure far more convenient.||||The only word of caution I would extend is that Ryokans are for the more adventurous soul. If you get frazzled when your accommodations aren’t Sheraton-like, this might not be the place for you. Japanese futons aren’t that far off from camping (sleeping on a quilted mat, directly on the floor). Most chairs have no legs and the tables are low. There’s no shower in the rooms and the bath is shaped like a walk-in tub – without the door. If you like trying something a little different for a few days, you’ll love Kanaguya; but if you can’t be without your home comforts and are unsteady on your feet, you’ll feel quite differently. As for us (in our mid-50s) – we thank our lucky stars that we had such an intriguing and authentic experience during our...

Stayed at the Kanaguya ryokan in the small onsen town of Shibu Onsen from 24-26 December 2018. ||From Osaka we took a Nozumi Shinkansen to Nagoya, then hopped onto the Limited Express Shinona to Nagano, then onto a local train to Yudanaka, before finally taking a mini-van provided by the ryokan which brought us to the ryokan’s doorstep. The whole journey took us more than four hours. ||Kanaguya is the inspiration for the ryokan in the Japanese anime Spirited Away. Once you see it in real life it’s not difficult to see why. The whole building reeks of an old world charm that is immaculately maintained. From the wooden floors to the tatami rooms to the eight different onsens within its premises, it’s an experience like no other. ||Five of the onsens are private, which means it is first-come-first-serve without a need for prior reservations. Just go and try your luck. There is no limit on the time you can spend in them. ||Two of the onsens are open for all guests but with different timings for men and women. The last one of which is always available and divided between men and women. ||Our room on the fourth floor is quite huge. There is an entrance area and a sitting/sleeping area. It is spotless and with a view of the street outside and the snow capped mountains in the distance. The ryokan, unfortunately, is not disabled or wheelchair friendly - there are rather steep stairs throughout the building. Access to the elevator requires a climb up a flight of stairs and there are more stairs to negotiate between the elevator and our room. ||The food, as is the case with almost all ryokans, is amazingly good - both in taste and presentation. Our breakfast and dinner were served in a dining room on the sixth floor. Service was excellent as would be expected in such an establishment. Greetings and smiles were the order of the day. Our beddings were laid out for us when we were at dinner and kept when we were at breakfast. ||If you are here to see the snow monkeys taking a dip in an outdoor onsen, you can either take a bus and walk, or take a 30-minute walk to the Snow Monkey Park. The roads to the Park are all well-paved. ||This is an excellent choice of ryokan if you are looking for some peace, quiet, excellent food and perhaps some couple time in the...