Movement Fountain Valley — Local services in Fountain Valley

This is a climber’s review of a climbing gym. If you’re a beginner or a weekend warrior, you’ll probably have a good time, so just ignore this review. This isn’t about their plentiful amenities, well-kept and clean gym, or friendly staff (all true btw), it’s about the climbing.

Let me preface this by mentioning that I’m just vacationing here. In my limited scope, I have found that American gyms are quite soft in general. Movement is no exception, and stands about middle of the pack in this regard. There are softer gyms (Sender One immediately comes to mind), but I’ve also been to stiffer gyms during my time here. It makes sense, as this is a commercial gym, not necessarily a tryhard climber’s gym. They want to create this illusion and make people feel like they’re progressing fast.

Unfortunately, this has created a massive gap in skills required to progress, with the first one appearing between V3 and V4. V3s here are typically jug-fests — a complete disrespect to the grade. Whereas V4s are calibrated closer to what you’d find in stiffer gyms. This reinforces my earlier point that this is a commercial gym designed to boost a beginner’s ego (easy flashes until V4). However, for beginners who actually stick around and try to take climbing seriously for the first time, they will find this sudden jump in difficulty quite a jarring experience as it doesn’t foster incremental progression.

My next gripe involves these weird extension problems with a tiered grading system. For example, a V6 problem will have a V6 finish and a V7 finish. The holds and movements to the V7 finish aren’t much different from what preceded them during the V6 portion, just more of the same. I wouldn’t call this lazy setting necessarily, but the grade of a problem shouldn’t be a function of length, but rather the difficulty of the crux.

This next one doesn’t affect me, but I’ve seen it impact shorter climbers. I find that many problems are height-gated (either start or crux) with no intuitive ways around them. For a business that promotes inclusivity, this is an ironic oversight. Maybe I’m just spoiled as we have national and international comp setters back home, but it is possible to have good problems for a range of heights simultaneously. I hope this is something Movement routesetters can work and improve on.

This last one doesn’t affect me either, as I’m just a visitor, but members have told me that the walls here reset quite often (a new section 2-3x a week). As someone used to a minimum 8 week rotation, this is foreign to me. How do you encourage members to project hard boulders?

I don’t want this come off too much as a rant. This comes from a place of wanting Movement to grow, as I would like to come back and visit when I’m in...

I have climbed at all the gyms in the area (touchstone, rockreaction, hangar, ect..). But, Movement is definitely the most premier bouldering gym in the area. There is a lot to say about this gym.

The climbs: The quality of the routes is consistently high. From delicate dance like balance problems on slab, powerful overhangs, outdoor-esque crimp-fests, and so much more. There's a diverse range of climbing styles that cater to climbers of all skill levels. At some gyms I find you can power your way through too many climbs, but here I feel my technique and route-reading is constantly challenged. Sometimes there's really interesting comp style stuff too which isn't my particular favorite style, but fun nonetheless.

Grading: I would say Movement is stiffer than aforementioned gyms, about 1-1.5 grades stiffer (on A V scale rating). For reference at touchstone I could consistently climb V5-V6 in one to two sessions, here V4-V5 requires several sessions of projecting and work, work, work. I was a little discouraged at first, but in the end I feel this gym has made me a stronger climber.

Training: The gym is massive. Six full squat racks, weights, machines. Good climbing training areas with multiple hangboards, pulleys, and training boards (kilter + tension baord 1). Outdoor area is nice and spacious also. I really prefer having a climbing gym that also has such a big non climbing section because when I feel too burnt out at climbing I have a nice space to keep my body moving.

Semi-cons: Climbing density could be bigger, but it is nice to sometimes have more space between climbs

Cons: Membership is expensive$$$, but worth it if you come often. Daypass + rentals is expensive for friends $$$ if you don't have...

Every once in a while, I tend to go to a different climbing gym than my usual one, and Movement has been one of my monthly add-on gyms. It's one of the best places to go in the area if you're into climbing and can afford the price. It is on the pricer side, but you can instantly see why the moment you walk in. The climbing section is huge! However; they only offer bouldering, so if you're a top roper or lead climber, they dont offer it at this location. There are several different climbing walls, and they all scale up a fairly high distance, too, so nothing feels too cluttered. Movement uses a phone app, Kaya, to help you figure out climbs if you're solo climbing, but it isn't required, and you're able to climb what you want. The gym offers yoga and climbing classes. Movement is also split with a regular gym that offers free weights, barbell training, plenty of bars for pull-ups, a stretching location, and tons of cardio machines. The staff is extremely nice too, always willing to help while staying professional. The bathrooms are always clean and offer lockers, showers, and even a sauna. If you're looking to get fit or to change up your usual climbing gym, I recommend coming to Movement. They offer many discounts, so check back every once in a while.

Updated April 5th: This place is still good. Workers are super nice and helpful. Clean environment and community have gotten larger. This place gets super packed for the first Friday of the month now, haha, mainly because of the BOGO deal. It's still a cool place to go...