In a city with a nearly limitless culinary variety, there are rare places that create dishes that cease to be mere sustenance and transcend into the realm of art. Such was the case during my recent visit to Mercado de Liniers. What began as an unplanned casual lunch soon turned into a revelation of biblical proportions.
I was in a bit of a hurry so I opted to skip the entree, and so my journey began with the beef cheek coated with a demi-glace on a bed of pickled zucchini with parmigiano and truffle oil. This isn't a dish that shouts, it sings; The meat arrives almost shyly, trembling at the edge of collapse, so tender that it feels as though it might fall apart under gravity's pull. Its flavor is as rich and profoundly succulent as Maria Callas' O mio Babbino Caro. It's an operatic tour de force, perfectly cooked till it melts in your mouth like butter, filling your soul like a grandmother's warm hug; only to then feel the punch of the concentrated umami rising in waves from the demi-glace. The pickled zucchini beneath acts like a well-timed inhale—cutting through the richness with a bright acidity that reawakens the palate and allows you to feel every bite as richly as the first one. And then, the final note: a ghost of truffle oil, not overpowering but perfumed, like the trail left behind by a beautiful woman you cross on the street and remember for the rest of the day.
If the beef cheek is the Babbino Caro, then the spinach risotto is Liszt's La Campanella. It begins as a soothing melody that transforms into a mesmerizingly intricate harmony that only a true virtuoso could pull off. What might have been a pedestrian comfort dish reveals itself as something wholly more ambitious. The parmigiano and butter make it luxuriously creamy, yes—but not in the cloying, one-note sense; here, the spinach comes alive as if it had been pulled off the farm mere minutes ago. Not boiled into submission, but vivid, fresh, present. And just when your tongue starts to settle into the warmth of dairy and chlorophyll, you feel tempted to mix in one of three lemon purée dots that draw your attention. With a single stir, the entire dish pivots. What was a rich and soothing dish that felt like laying on the grass, suddenly becomes a flavorful hurricane. The brightness of the lemon feels electrifying, the parmesan's richness envelops you, the spinach's freshness bathes you in a gust of wind sifting through the garden, turning the spoon into a conductor's baton in a symphony of spring. It's not just a flavor shift—it's a wholly different narrative arc.
And then, as if closing off this majestic concert with a whisper rather than a bang, comes the flan foam. Served in a martini glass with restrained presentation, it is less dessert than sweet vapor made edible. The texture is so light, so ephemeral, that each spoonful feels like kissing a sweet cloud before it vanishes on the tongue. But just when you think you're drifting too high on nostalgia and caramel, a surprise comes from below. A drop of lemon juice resting at the bottom of the glass, waiting patiently to bring you back to earth. It’s the necessary contrast that gives the sweetness its dimension. It's a metaphor for life. Bitter moments make the sweet ones all the more memorable. I can say today that without a doubt that this is one of my sweet moments. I could not hide my smile—I did not want to either. I sat quietly, contemplating the emotions I felt but could not describe, could not compare, could not have imagined prior to today.
There are meals that satisfy and meals that astonish. These dishes belong firmly in the second camp. They do not exist to impress, but they do. They exist to express—and they succeed. It is an intimate, intricate, and utterly unforgettable experience. Rarely does a kitchen compose with such grace and precision. Here, the chef is not a cook, but a maestro—and every plate, a movement in a concert you'll remember long after the...
Read moreThis is the best fine dining experience I’ve had in Buenos Aires in my three years living here—it felt like being transported to Europe for an evening. Classic European dishes, such as tartare or beef cheeks with purée, are executed with modern techniques and intriguing flavor combinations.
This is the best tartare I’ve ever had, and I highly recommend the "pizza in a glass"—you get all the flavors of pizza without the heaviness. The exquisite savory pastries add to the satisfaction; it's hard to stop yourself from eating every last crumb.
The tender beef cheeks, rich in umami flavor, are complemented by a velvety sauce rather than just a simple purée. The service is outstanding, with attentive waiters who all speak English.
The dining room is perfectly designed—spacious, airy, and featuring an open kitchen that adds to the experience. The wine list deserves a special mention; I highly recommend trying their signature Cabernet Franc, which you won’t find in any wine shop.
We will definitely be coming back for another special...
Read moreI am not a food critic, but I want to give a review to the food I had: Starter (Snacks): Best was the Karlsson soup. Ocoo Avocado and Cacio e pepe stone were OK. Did not like the thin Pizza. It tasted like Za'atar which was very strong Block A: Spiced tomato tart, peach sorbet…: It was a good choice for the first course. I liked the light refreshing taste. Block B: Cantonese tongue salad: It was good, the tongue taste was tender. Block C: I went with the classic beef tartar, but I did not like it and could not even finish it. The taste of the tomato was really strong and dominant. Sweetbread was dry. Predessert was good. Dessert: Pineapple, avocado, lime,…: It was just OK. It needed s little bit of more taste. I think it is better to add to the pineapple portion. The service was good. Sabrina, the waitress was very nice snd also informative. Overall, my experience was good, but I think the chefs can go for...
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