With wind & rain lashing the windows of this two-storey restaurant, it wasn’t quite the night for admiring epic views. However, with Silica Restaurant and Bar perched on the edge of Kiama Surf Beach, the window tables certainly would have a good view on a clearer night. Served by a green but enthusiastic floor team, we were quickly set up with recently shucked Wallis Lake oysters ($4/each) dressed with ginger and shallots. We accompanied them with the 2019 Amato Vino Chardonnay ($52) that had enough likeable characteristics and a comparatively low mark-up to make it drink like a very good buy.

Two courses ($49/person) for me kicked off with kingfish crudo, adorned with an unusual topping of cucumber, sour cream and parsnip, dotted shiny black roe. Quirky, but it worked to showcase the firm-fleshed fish. Barbequed pork neck—slow cooked and served with red cabbage and nectarine with a scattering of pumpkin seeds—eats well and is more generously proportioned than my photo implies. Salt baked gnocchi was the standout—crisp green snow peas and a creamy quenelle kept it from being too salty, and the tiny pillows of potato were perfectly cooked. It edged out the duck breast served under nicely wilted greens.

The farm-fresh vegetables were a highlight across the meal, particularly in a mixed leaf salad ($10), lightly dressed in honey mustard, but remarkable because of the quality of the assorted leaves. This kitchen team stood out for the speed and consistency with which they served a busy two-storey restaurant. Notching up the knowledge on the floor to match their skill, would be my only suggestion.