Cricca — Restaurant in Sydney

(4.5 stars) Tucked away under a blanket in the rear of former dress shop was a wood-fire pizza oven. It was the inspiration for two young chefs, Alessio Nogarotto and Giles Gabutina, to create Cricca. While the walls themselves date back to the 1880s, the photos on them give a historical glimpse of the Italian village Nogarotto hails from. It’s just one half of his cultural influences which also includes Filipino ancestry.

This cultural fusion comes through on the plates, with big Queensland prawns ($35.20) topped with a house-made charcuterie ends and ginger XO. Mortadella is also stuffed into crumbed olives with pork jowl and cheese ($17.60) under a blob of garlic aioli, to very good effect. Even the wood fired oysters ($15.40/2) get a charcuterie (pancetta) addition taken to surf’n’turf with a clever kombu dressing.

The local area is not forgotten either with Pitt Town honey from “down the road” adding a clever twist to the opening amuse bouche crostini. Almost everything is cooked in the wood-fire oven, from pricy but soft, rewarding bread ($11) fermented for between 24–48 hours then splashed with olive oil to create some char to the dulce de leche shortbread they pack you out the door with. There is also an emphasis on making things in-house, bar for the flatbread we had with the white anchovies ($22) dressed with pickled eschallot, fried capers and dill and dotted brown butter sauce. On the basis of this meal I’d happily go back for their chef’s menu ($95/person) if I happened to find myself in Windsor at night. The only oddness was adding a 10% weekend surcharge...

Had been wanting to dine here since reading a newspaper review. Lobbed without a booking for Saturday lunch (only lunch service) and were happily accommodated. Whole experience was exceptional. Started with the white anchovies on brioche, moved to the wood-fired prawns as an entree, and the duck breast as a main with potato terrine and the cos and fennel salad with lemon Myrtle. All dishes set up for sharing. Had room to share the dark chocolate and burnt pear purée with hazelnut topped with jasmine ice cream. The food was expertly prepared and presented and featured wonderful flavours. The less busy lunchtime allowed the owner/waiter to explain the menu and answer questions in detail, give excellent advice re wine selection and interact generally with patrons. There was something about being in a restaurant with the owner on the floor compared to the big private equity backed groups operating several venues in the CBD and near city suburbs. Won’t be long before we’re back here sampling some of the other dishes on the menu.

[Edit] Went back again 15 May 24, was just as good as the first time. We had Giles the head chef on the floor as Alessio was away and it was good to get the detailed knowledge behind the dishes as they were served. Highly recommend the quieter Saturday...

A Fusion of Urban Sophistication and Rural Charm

To start, we tasted the woodfire oyster and the white anchovy on brioche. Moving on to the main course, the spectacularly cooked duck stole the show, boasting tender, succulent meat cooked to perfection. Paired with a side of potato terrine and oxtail ragu pappardelle, each bite was a symphony of flavors and textures that left us craving for more. As for dessert, the dark chocolate option proved to be the perfect finale to our meal, indulging our sweet tooth with rich, decadent goodness.

Our experience at Cricca was nothing short of exceptional. With its blend of top-notch service, exquisite cuisine, and rustic charm, it stands shoulder to shoulder with its flashy city counterparts, offering a dining experience that is as unforgettable as it is delightful. Whether you're a local or just passing through, a visit to Cricca is an absolute must for anyone seeking culinary excellence with a side of genuine...