HATOS BAR — Restaurant in Tokyo

People have been telling me that if I'm missing American food, I should try the Barbecue at Hatosbar. I'm a bit of barbecue connoisseur, maybe a snob. I used to do competitive barbecue back in the US, won some high profile competitions back in my day. So, I was skeptical that it would satisfy me, but I figured I'd give it a try.

The place was not what I was expecting. But that's generally how things go in Tokyo. I thought I'd walk into a big trendy place full of high retro-Amerika energy, like a US Gastropub with kitschy interior decorating. Instead, I found a little Japanese hole in the wall, full of unique style, character, and personality. I thought they would be playing up the cliche American BBQ style, with red-white-and-blue country music. Nope. I guess it is only in the US where BBQ requires hyperbolic Amereicana. This place has a very cool bohemian energy and aesthetic.

The smell of smokey lard and BBQ sauce wafts the air, so my mouth was watering. I ordered a high ball, a pulled pork sandwich, and a quarter rack of ribs.

They handed me three baby back ribs on a bed of fries. Barbecue ribs should have enough resistance that you need to bite through them, but they should also come off the bone clean. If the meat falls off the bone too fast--like you try to bite and the whole thing is so tender that all the meat comes off in a single chunk--then, they're over cooked. Also, if you have to gnaw at the bone and there's still tiny pieces of meat attached at the end, they're under cooked.

These were almost perfect: the bite had perfect resistance, but there was still a bit too much bone cling. That's okay. Still better than most places in the US. By the time I bit into the second rib, I felt like the meat was a little dry. Very tender, but not fatty and juicy. Some of this is characteristic of lean baby backs (I'm partial to the St.Louis cut), but juicier would be better. There's a lot of really good, well-marbled pork in Japan, so I was hoping to see it highlighted in the ribs. Unfortunately, it wasn't. Final verdict: the fresh fruitiness of the sauce is impressive--reminiscent of the cider bastes the best pitmasters use in competition--and that achievement alone offsets any of the technical weaknesses. The fries were crispy with generous salt and pepper.

When I had eaten two of the three ribs, they handed me my pulled pork sandwich. I had already eaten enough, was mostly full, but I was already committed to comprehensively tasting Tokyo's take on American BBQ, to serving those of you who are reading this review. So, I ordered another drink and ate some more. We all have to make sacrifices sometimes.

I was immediately stuck by how perfectly they mimicked the North Carolina vinegar sauce. It was fruity and juicy and spicy. So often, it's too sweet, like grocery store BBQ sauce. Also, it had a perfectly resistant texture. It's easy for pulled pork to feel like it's cooked to hell and all the flavor and moisture comes from the sauce, like you're eating dehydrated meat floss that's been reconstituted in tomato-ketchup sugar water. This was not that. They nailed it. Each bite felt like there was juiciness in the meat, with real chunks of shredded pork shoulder. Impressive. The slaw was crunchy, but not quite sweat and creamy enough to cut through the pork flavor. That's okay, texture is more important than flavor here. The bun absorbed the juices, but also retained it's structural integrity. So, there was a good contrast between the gluten-bouyant chewiness of the bread and the meatiness of the shredded pork. By the time I took my last few bites, I thought the pork might be just a little too acidic and spicy. I felt a hint of tomorrow's acid reflux bubbling in my chest. But I was still very happy.

Overall, this is great barbecue. Better than I'd ever expect to eat in Tokyo and better than most places in the US. My criticism comes from a super high competition-level analysis. There's a nothing about these nit-picking critiques that should turn you off. Give it a try. I'm sure I'll...

Absolutely loved it! Be sure to make a reservation because this place is popular (with good reason) Staff is very friendly and speaks English. Ordered -chilli fries (half portion is great as an appetizer for the group, made fresh and has a nice kick.) -chilli (delicious! not too spicy and well seasoned) -pulled pork sandwich (it's a mess to eat but absolutely filling) -Half ribs (Highly recommend it! moist, juicy, falls off the bone and the sauce? was sooo damn good)becareful you will be filled after eating this even if you're sharing it does come served with a plate of fries -macaroni (Thank god it's done right! cheese cheese and more cheese topped with a bit of salsa and it works trust me) -key lime pie (Topped with whipped cream and a slice of lime it also has a gram cracker base (rarely done right in Japan but they nailed it)) -beer (They have several options don't worry their not offering corona for 700￥ like some places, it's actual beer of varying brands. ) -homemade gingerale (It....was....perfect! Wish I could get a bottle of this to take...

I’ve been here twice and really like the food, but the service and environment are just too bad for me to recommend it.

The seating is cramped forcing us to climb over other people’s tables and chairs to use the toilet or go to the bar.

We thought it was a bar, but there are children everywhere running and playing between the tables. Making it more uncomfortable to have a drink or a smoke outside at the smoking spot.

The waiters don’t write anything down (which is fine) but then get orders wrong.

Overall just a very confusing place to eat at. Seemed like everyone there knew each other, but were a little TOO comfortable and familiar. Made it feel like eating at a strangers family gathering . Not for everyone.

The food is good, but it’s dragged down by a really weird environment. Definitely only recommend getting take-out or having a...