Restaurante Áperi — Restaurant in San Miguel de Allende

Tl;Dr: find a reason to go

Tonight we ate at the chefs table. This was a table for up to eight in the kitchen with the chef, Jesus, four Sous, and our attendant. The space is intimate and beautiful tucked in the restaurant away from the busy bar and main dining area. The kitchen is quiet and professional.

The food was impeccably presented. The plates (7 in total) were superb. The leche del Tigre was bright and acidic with yuzu. The pork three ways was incredible: Suckling pig with glasslike skin, well rendered belly, and a chorizo sauce that was one part pork one part velvet.

The dish that is worth the trip over and over and over again is the octopus. Dear reader, I’ve eaten my fair share, and likely your fair share, of octopus all over this beautiful world. This octopus is the best. I know what you’re thinking…but you’re wrong. This octopus was lightly crispy (I said it) on the outside and meltingly tender within. There was a glossy layer of ponzu brushed on top. It was served with green mole.

The wine pairings were a blend of Mexican and Spanish. They were lovely and served chilled. The non-alcoholic menu deserves special recognition. Each glass was balanced between acid, herbal, and sweet. All n/a bartenders out there in SMA take notes.

Chef Jesus had his hands on every dish. I can confirm as he was ten feet away from me all night. The food was meticulous without being fussy. It was clearly Mexican. But he clearly has studied in France. When he came to the table he was not pressured and easy to talk to. He answered every question I had, even questions he shouldn’t.

This has been a good year of eating for me highlighted by trips to French laundry, la Bernadin and probably a total of ten or so other stars. When Michelin finds its way here, you won’t be able to get this table so...

Almost, but not quite.

I am a cook, wine collector, foodie and difficult to please. That being said, my mantra is ‘Food is Flavor’. The room and menu offer real potential, but the potential for flavor has been lost on the young chef. I am sure he will discover his potential in the future. The octopus was moist but lacking taste. The accompanying green beans (limas, I believe) likewise lacked flavor and all this served on a bed of truck stop quality mashed potatoes supports the premise of a quality presentation, but an unfinished potential of a finishing flavor opportunity that would have brought the dish to a higher standard. The suckling pig presentation followed in the same vein. Fatty pork with a crispy seared exterior, but a missed opportunity of flavor unmet. Think sauce, drizzles, aioli, dusting of herbs, even the basics of a touch of salt and pepper.

If you have experienced fine dining, this is miss. If you haven’t, this may be a good starting point, but expect better as you travel and broaden your palette.

Out waiter was perfect in every detail as was our hostess. I am putting this online not to diminish the chef, but to encourage him to explore his craft and discover the nuances of ‘flavor’ as the finishing touch and his signature as a top professional.

Real, but...

Unfortunately, our overall experience left much to be desired. We had made a reservation at this establishment to celebrate a friend's 50th birthday, expecting a delightful dinner given the prices and ambiance. While the food itself was well-executed, the service and attentiveness of the wait staff were extremely disappointing. Despite the restaurant branding itself as a high-end dining experience, it fell short of our expectations. Our waiter appeared rushed and seemed eager to rush us through our meal as soon as we sat down. When we deviated from her recommendations, she responded with attitude, insisting that the chef's recommendation was the only way to go. It was apparent that she lacked experience in providing top-notch service. The flow and grace of the dining experience were absent, with plates and drinks being cleared without asking if we were finished. To make matters worse, the music abruptly turned off just 20 minutes after we sat down, leaving the restaurant devoid of ambience and filled only with the echoes of other tables' conversations. It seems that the manager should consider retraining the staff in all aspects of engaging with paying customers. Unfortunately, I cannot recommend dining at this establishment if you're seeking attentive and genuinely...