ルンピニ公園の目の前に誕生した大型商業施設One Bangkok。そのレストラン棟に、静かに佇む寿司店がある。名はfillet。おまかせ寿司を提供するカウンターのみの一軒だ。女友達のすすめで、ディナーに訪れた。
扉を開けると、目の前に広がるのは劇場のような円形の空間。白を基調とし、黒とドラマティックな照明が絶妙に効いている。和の要素を排除した、まるでコンテンポラリーなアートのような寿司バーだ。日本では見たことのないデザイン。寿司店といえば木の温もりや静謐な雰囲気を思い浮かべがちだが、ここは違う。モダンで洗練されている。
1杯目に選んだのは「おだやか」という日本酒。口当たりがやわらかく、驚くほどするりと喉を通る。アミューズは、まるで西洋のファインダイニングのようなプレゼンテーション。寿司店でありながら、創作料理のように楽しませてくれる。
コースの中で何度も登場するのが昆布の存在だ。昆布締めに、お出汁に、と姿を変えて現れるのは、北海道・利尻のもの。鰹節は枕崎産と聞く。王道にして本物。寿司を支える土台が、しっかりとした選択によって形作られていることがわかる。
2品目の茶碗蒸しには驚かされた。なめらかな卵の下には、なんとリゾットが隠れている。和と洋の垣根を超えた発想の新鮮さに、思わず箸を止める。
3品目からは、いよいよ寿司が続く。イカはねっとりと舌に絡み、口の中で静かにほどけていく。穴子はふっくらと炊き上げられ、箸を入れるとほろりと崩れる。そのやわらかさに、思わず頬が緩む。
甘いものが苦手な私が、最後のスイーツには思わず心を奪われた。ゴマのアイスクリームに、ほんのりと味噌のアクセント。甘さと塩気が絶妙に絡み合い、これがまた絶品なのだ。もう一口、もう一口と、自然にスプーンが進む。
filletは、従来の寿司店のイメージを覆す一軒だった。伝統を重んじながらも、型にはまらず、自由な発想を取り入れている。寿司とは、こんなにもドラマティックで、新しい形を持ち得るものなのか。
In front of Lumpini Park stands One Bangkok, a newly opened large-scale commercial complex. Within its restaurant wing, quietly nestled away, is a sushi restaurant called “fillet.” It’s an omakase-style sushi bar with only counter seating. A friend of mine highly recommended it, so I decided to visit for dinner.
Stepping through the discreet entrance, I was met with a dramatic, theater-like circular space. The interior is predominantly white, accented with black and atmospheric lighting. Unlike any sushi restaurant I’ve seen in Japan, it completely strips away traditional Japanese aesthetics in favor of a sleek, modern, and almost avant-garde design. Sushi restaurants typically exude warmth and tranquility, but this one feels strikingly contemporary—cool and refined, like a work of art.
For my first drink, I chose a sake called “Odayaka.” Smooth and gentle on the palate, it went down effortlessly. The amuse-bouche that followed was equally surprising—beautifully plated like a dish from a fine Western dining establishment. The presentation, the thoughtfulness behind each course, made it clear that this was no ordinary sushi experience.
Throughout the meal, kombu made several appearances, whether in kombu-cured fish or delicately infused dashi. The restaurant uses Rishiri kombu from Hokkaido, and its katsuobushi is sourced from Makurazaki—both gold standards in Japanese cuisine. It’s clear that while the restaurant embraces modernity, it stays rooted in authenticity where it truly matters.
The second course, a chawanmushi, was particularly intriguing. Beneath the silky egg custard lay a layer of risotto—an unexpected yet delightful fusion of Japanese and Western influences. It was a dish that made me pause, momentarily caught off guard by its inventiveness.
From the third course onward, the sushi began. The squid melted effortlessly in my mouth, its texture rich and smooth. The anago (sea eel), steamed to perfection, was so tender that it nearly fell apart with the lightest touch of my chopsticks. A single bite was enough to bring a smile to my face.
Then came dessert, and to my surprise, I found myself enchanted. I don’t usually have a sweet tooth, but the sesame ice cream with a hint of miso was simply exceptional. The balance of sweetness and umami was addictive—I kept reaching for another bite.
“fillet” is a restaurant that defies expectations. While honoring the fundamentals of sushi, it boldly reimagines its presentation and experience. It showed me that sushi can be more than just tradition,it can be theatrical, innovative, and completely new. If you ever find yourself in Bangkok, this is a place worth...
Read moreA friend highly recommended this place, so I made this my last lunch before flying out. When I enter the restaurant, the atmosphere was very lovely. (So I was kinda anticipating...dammm it's gonna be good) Appetizers were good in general except for the Ankimo moose...it was too frozen, I thought I was eating ice-cream for a second. It's okay to be cold but it was definitely too cold. Sushis are okayyyy... I love eating sushi with my hand so the "grip" was important. The rice was pretty loose for a lot of them. I forgot what I had after sushi. I paid around 800HKD for lunch (which I think it's pretty expensive cos I can get something cheaper and better in Hong Kong and Tokyo).
Most importantly, I was still hungry after the 800HKD lunch. (Fyi, I am not...
Read moreNew Fillets at One Bangkok. The restaurant decoration is definitely grandure with a large spacious circular bar seating. But after being seated, it's not exactly ideal. You definitely don't have much privacy, the vibe is not intimate like most omakase restaurant. The width of the bar counter is quite deep so it's not very friendly to make conversation with you chef.
Food are of good standard and what you would expect from Fillets. But I feel like there is lack of wow factor.
Staff are friendly but is a bit confuse. And are nervous when asked to make sake recommended. When dishes are served, their explanation is also very textbook memorization-like, which is a bit of a...
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