So you walk up through Lowestoft old town, getting more depressed at the gorgeous buildings being ignored. You turn around and start to walk back down the Old High St and at 12 noon, the bells strike, the Old Blue Anchor stores boards catch your eye. We happened in with a beer to quench the thirst, followed by a perusal of the menu. So cockle popcorn as a shared starter, oh yes, a great choice, fresh - tasting of the sea and properly battered to be "popcorny" . Then skate wing with shrimp butter and for my partner a whole plaice with lemon butter and samphire. Both fish are cooked perfectly, just enough to leave the bones cleanly, yet still rich and creamy in texture. The wine list is old and new world, with constant changes. We switched from Sancerre to an excellent Albarino. The Spanish style cheesecake with rhubarb was dessert, complete with a PX sherry and white desert wine, followed by coffee. If you want a reason to visit Lowestoft, it's here. Locally sourced great produce, cooked perfectly and served with gusto. Return visit 6 weeks later with the John Dorey fillet cooked to perfection. Our 3rd visit and we are now old friends. My smoked haddock mustard mash was magnificent, with the skate wi gs with seasonal produce. This chef is a master of fish, so enjoy whats in season. Sorry, no pictures of food, this is to be enjoyed, not photographed. James is both avuncular and authoritative- the perfect host.