Provender Restaurant — Restaurant in London

Had read the enthusiastic recommendations and booked a Saturday lunchtime for five knowledgeable diners well in advance. The menu and wine list looked promising, despite the atmosphere being a little too underwhelming. We all appreciate our food, and the five of us got ordering. The vin de maison (Gascogne) was beautifully chilled to the edge, and tap water was supplied speedily. The white bean soup was absolutely delicious, the goat’s cheese mousse very tasty in the salad, but the potted salmon starter was a notably tiny portion. We varied between prix fixe and à la carte, but this did not seem reflected in size or quality. The main courses (chicken, duck burger and steak) all pleased the carnivores, the sea bream was much praised, but the cheese soufflé was rather austere. Could have done with something like broccoli as a complement? By this time the restaurant was packed, and service slipped away. We didn’t feel anyone was assigned or alert to us. It became hard to gain attention for ordering. When eventually someone different came to take down our third course details, they did not know anything about the five unusual cheeses listed on the board (just one of which you could have for this course.) She said she’d get a senior colleague who knew about them to explain. Sadly, when he somewhat reluctantly came over to us, he was almost churlish in his curt and superficial resumé! He gave no impression of knowing or being excited by the original cheese options, and was fairly dismissive. Two of our group were deterred from ordering cheese as a consequence. The service really wasn’t working well by this stage, but the mango crème brûlée was excellent and the Bleu de Basques much appreciated. We had coffees, and thanked the charming young waitress who took payment, but - despite a skilled chef behind the scenes - would we want...

Mark: 78

Grade: A

Excellence in all aspects - congratulations!

Products Evaluated: 3-course menu Entrée: Potted salmon, pickled cucumber (25%) Main Course: sea bream filet "Bouillabaisse" with gratin dauphinois (50%) Dessert: Mango panna cotta (25%)

Environment et hygiene: Relaxing but still decorated with style. Familial atmosphere. Rather good use of utensils. 7.25/10

Presentation: Slightly pale for the entrée and the dessert but still evidence of care shown. The main course was however attractively presented, with careful positioning or the fish filet. 11.25/15

Portion: The entrée was on the light side but otherwise very good. Well-balanced. 7/10

Taste: Salmon - nice and subtle smokey flavours. Pickles were appropriately prepared without being overwhelming acidic. 7

Sea bream -The skin was very nicely seared and the fillet appropriately cooked if not a bit too much so. Well-marinated with a natural sweetness. The base was fragrant with flavours of saffron, garlic and herbs (could use a bit more) well-balanced. Texture was excellent and the use of shrimps, mussels, funnel and potatoes added variety to the dish. The rouille (?) lacked cayenne pepper and saffron but was still good. The gratin was authentic. 7.75

Crême brûlée - Excellent texture and control of sweetness. The taste of mango was perhaps a bit masked though. 7.25

29.75/40

Service: A tad bit of confusion at the start and the procedure of asling for allergies was omitted. However, this was made up but a good to great degree of hospitality shown. Quite well-paced. 7.25/10

Value: £20.5 for the menu - outstandung for Greater London and for the excellent performance in all aspects!...

This restaurant was on my list of restaurants to visit in Wanstead as soon as it openened. I wondered how a French Brasserie would fare here, but the food scene is truly burgeoning. A mark of this is it still retains bakers and butchers shops (Ginger Pig no less) where other have had them supplanted by chain 'Local' shops. Upon entering on a cold wet December afternoon we were welcomed and our coats taken by the very attentive team. Being a French restaurant I thought my son's dairy allergy may be a problem, but we needn't have worried. The waiting staff are extremely knowledgable of the preparation of all meals on the menu. We were told that some would be too difficult to remove dairy and to be honest would not have tasted the same had they tried. We were able to pick from a choice of two starters, two mains and offered a stewed pear with pear sorbet which were all excellent. As were all the meals we sampled. Entrée: escargot were pre-shelled and embedded into a delightfully heavy garlic butter sauce; fish selection were delicately smoked. Main: Rabbit had a decent amount of tender flesh and not tough or dry as I have had in the past; John Dory succulent and full of flavour. We chose the house white as our accompaniment which was light a delicately complimented the food. The bottled beers were also not the usual French beers we are used to and suit a range of palates - I will try these on my next visit. Nothing can be faulted, from the quality of the ingredients, to the way they are cooked, to the way they are served. I haven't been to a French restaurant for a long time, but Provender is now...