Alma Cocina Latina — Restaurant in Baltimore

Our first meal at Alma Cocina Latina was -- bar none -- the best meal I've had in Baltimore in ten years.

I do a pretty good job of staying up to speed on the newest and best restaurants in Balto...it's my home town and not that big a place. I was aware of Alma Cocina Latina, but hadn't yet been by as I live in the sweet spot between Hampden/Remington/Woodberry/Charles Village/Roland Park. We can walk to scores of the best restaurants in town in 15 mins...no need to venture down to Canton. Then I read the rave in WaPo and put Alma Cocina Latina on the "must do" list. So glad that we did.

We were greeted by a familiar face...former front of house guy at The Food Market -- and seated quickly. We explained to Scott, our server, that we were generally unfamiliar with Venezuelan food -- outside arepas -- and would be happy for him to walk us through the menu. He took precisely the right amount of time...explaining and answering questions without hovering or being supercilious.

We tried the Ceviche Mixto after confirming that the octopus was going to be prepared in some way other than a quick bath in citrus/acid. We were assured that it is cured (sorry, but semi-raw octupus is not a way I'm going to start a meal). This ceviche was among the best I've ever eaten, and the portion was surprisingly large...easily enough to split and satisy as an appetizer for two. I asked specifically about the micro-greens as the were pretty 'flavor forward' in spots and learned that the sous chef grown them personally. I expect that since they were very fresh, they were prominent.

Having sampled something from the sea, we had meat(s) in an arepa...deciding on the "Mariposa" (why they named it "butterfly" I can't say. Go there. Ask.) It also was the best I've had...though it was so 'overstuffed' that it would be impossible to eat by hand w/o wearing some home on the front of one's shirt. We left it on the plate and took turns forking out seared chicken, tender stewed beef and a delightfully underspiced chorizo. When we got it down to a manageable size, we picked it up and discovered the fried egg and avacodo in the base which had benefited greatly from the juice and spice from above.

Then is was 'vegetarian' entree, also gluten free, medanos de falcon. Scott described the kitchen's attempt to replicate the desert region from which it is inspired as "terroir" which I think may have not been the right term. (I understand that to mean that the flavor of the area in which the ingredients are grown infuses the product.) The description of the dish when presented indicated this was am much a visual representation as a flavor one...so maybe "terroir with visuals". Anyway it was 'lick the plate" delicious and the black bean/sweet coconut puree that dotted the dish was a revelation. Just try it. If you have a vegetarian friend who always feels kinda left out take them to Alma Cocina Latina and order this. Friend for life.

We'd saved room for dessert and are very grateful we did. When our "marquesa" was brought to the table, Scott went uncharacteristically quiet. I asked why and he said the dish was such a mixture of unfamiliar textures and flavors that he'd prefer to come bacj when we were done and ask how it was. Good call. It's a melange of Almond butter cream, macadamia & almond crumble, vanilla toffee, lemon zest, vanilla-caramel ice cream, almond cracker, citrus meringue. I mean who thinks of putting lemon into meringue and making a cracker out of it? The almond butter cream and the ice cream are the same color...but different flavors, textures and temperatures...so it's an interactive mystery to eat.

Anyway...sheesh. I have not intended to take this much time raving about this place. It...

The food was actually pretty good. I had the arepas (lamb arepas) and yuccas bravas. Our servers were nice. However the manager (Paul) of the restaurant was very rude to us, and refused to apologize when his behavior was addressed. The servers at the restaurant apologized for his behavior. He seems to have anger and comprehension issues, which his staff seem to be aware of. We were told when we walked in that happy hour was only available if you sat (for the entirety of your meal) at the bar. That was fine. We sat at the bar, but witnessed someone coming to the bar to order and then taking their drink back to a table that was not at the bar. When we asked the manager why this was allowed in this instance, we were informed that the area the person was seated in was designated the bar as well even though he was at a table. We were told that there was a bar and a dining room, and that happy hour was only served in the bar. We understood this and did not have an issue with this part of his explanation. However, when the manager told us there were no servers in the bar area, it aroused a question given the fact that we had seen several servers around the table area designated as the bar space. When asked to clarify about the existence of servers serving customers in an area we were told was not supposed to have servers, the manager became agitated, and started raising his voice at us so loudly that all of his staff and onlookers in the restaurant took notice. He repeated that there was a bar area and a dining area (about 6 or 7 times) while waving his hands wildly.

When told that a question was specifically being asked about why there were servers seen in the area he said was not supposed to have servers, he continued to repeat the same refrain about the fact that there was a bar area and a dining area, without answering the question. I should mention that the manager is an American, and no language barrier existed between us. He simply did not understand the question being asked, and instead of handling the situation calmly, began to raise his voice and speak down to his customers (us). He was eventually interrupted by the bartender, who had been watching and appeared to be attempting to jump in. She understood our question immediately, and answered professionally without any trouble.

When he left our area we were apologized to by several servers for his behavior.

There are several other good South American inspired cuisines in the area if you want to go to one with a better manager, which I would highly reccomend. Sota Sopra, Points South (apologies if spelling is off) both have better or comparable food with comparable or cheaper prices, and might be a better...

This one was a difficult 4 because the service is a perfect 5. The food is great. The chefs seem to be experimenting with the menu and rediscovering themselves which is always fun. Overall, this really is a great dining experience. It's just... When does latin food stop being latin food? The food is a bit of a fusion between latin american and something else. Sometimes it delves too deeply into the something else. Brazilians might appreciate this due to the various ethnicities within their country's borders. But to call it "Cocina Latina" I was hoping for food rooted stronger in latino traditions. For example, the arepas, flavor wise, have to be some of the best arepas I have ever tried in my life. But the portion for the price... If I served that to my grandmother for that price she would run me out of the house. Arepas are supposed to be affordable and filling food. In other dishes, like with the chicken, the portion was fair, the food was expertly cooked (appeared like overnight marinade + sous vide, + broil or other finish), but something about the spices used or the way the food was plated just didn't feel latino. Perhaps this place is ahead of its time. In an era where latino food has integrated deeply with other cuisine this restaurant would be a unique twist. But considering the gastronomy scene in Baltimore, the owners and chefs could've also just chosen to make latino food, that stuck closely to latino roots, and it would've been very popular. Probably would've spoken to folks that are used to eating creole/southern style food, too. However, it feels like the target demographic for this restaurant is really more on the wealthy & not latino. It's more of an exhibition of certain ingredients used in latino cuisine in artistic ways. It's best enjoyed if you're not intimately familiar with latino food, as the meals are quite witty and fun & expertly cooked/plated--but just missing that touch that makes it feel like home. I will say without a doubt where this restaurant truly shines is in the warmth of their service staff. Best all-around service I've received in the DMV area. The attentiveness, the joy, and warmth of every interaction is palpable. In particular, Kate, Gabriel, and Kanae have been absolutely beautiful human beings at heart and exemplify quality restaurant service. I will most likely return to see what other dishes the chefs craft in hopes that it one day captures the taste of home. In the meanwhile, interactions with the staff will be the highlight...