Cilantro Specialty Foods — Restaurant in Guilford

The aroma hits you first: rich, nutty coffee beans transforming in real time inside a gleaming Diedrich roaster that dominates Cilantro Specialty Foods like a copper altar. Customers queue for lattes while watching green beans tumble toward aromatic perfection, an industrial ballet performed against exposed brick walls just steps from Guilford's historic town green.

This is coffee theater, and it's surprisingly compelling.

Jonathan and Cindy Wallace opened Cilantro in 1990 as a European-style gourmet market, back when specialty coffee meant Maxwell House French Roast. "We had imported cheeses, pâtés, and always coffee," Cindy Wallace recalls, gesturing toward shelves now stocked with $16 Graza olive oil and Murray's preserves. "We evolved with food trends."

That evolution accelerated dramatically. What began as a quaint specialty shop has become something more ambitious: a serious coffee roasting operation wrapped in the warm aesthetics of a neighborhood café. The contradiction works.

The storefront commands premium real estate — a double-wide glass facade directly facing the 16-acre green where Guilford's story began in 1639. String lights illuminate outdoor tables where UConn students share space with retirees walking small dogs, all drawn by the rare sight of coffee roasting in full view.

Inside, the Wallace's hybrid model reveals itself. A curved pastry case displays house-made items alongside an extensive breakfast sandwich menu ($6.99-$11.25). But walk deeper and you'll discover serious retail territory: artisanal condiments, aged cheeses, and specialty items targeting Guilford's affluent demographics (median household income: $130,036).

The coffee quality proves inconsistent — some customers praise the roasted beans while others describe disappointing lattes. This suggests barista training hasn't kept pace with roasting ambitions. But the wholesale coffee business appears robust; bags of Fair Trade beans stack near the roaster like aromatic sandbags.

During the pandemic, the Wallaces pivoted brilliantly, converting their café into a grocery store while using their commercial kitchen to prepare meals for New Haven's homeless shelter. "The vulnerable are so vulnerable right now," Cindy Wallace said at the time, embodying the community-first ethos that defines many family businesses.

That adaptability reflects deeper strengths. Where other independents struggle against chains, Cilantro offers something Starbucks cannot: the romance of craft production. Watching coffee roast while sipping the finished product creates an emotional connection that transcends flavor profiles.

The business model is more sophisticated than it appears. Coffee roasting provides wholesale opportunities, specialty retail delivers high margins, and the café drives foot traffic. Revenue streams diversify naturally.

Location advantages are considerable. Guilford attracts tourists seeking authentic New England charm, and Cilantro delivers: historic green views, artisanal products, and the increasingly rare sight of food being made rather than reheated.

Yet challenges loom. Rising commercial rents on prime real estate, labor shortages in affluent markets, and the eternal struggle to balance tourist appeal with local loyalty. The roasting equipment represents significant capital investment that demands consistent quality.

The Wallaces have created something unique: a coffee roastery masquerading as a neighborhood café, or perhaps vice versa. After 35 years, they've earned the right to confuse categories.

What matters is this: on Guilford's historic green, amid 450 historic houses and centuries of New England propriety, Cilantro offers something genuinely distinctive. The coffee may vary, but the experience...

My wife and I ordered an iced latte, cappuccino, and a corn muffin. The muffin was excellent! Sticky, sweet and - and I know everyone hates this word - moist.

The iced latte was good, though a bit weak. My cappuccino was good as well. I'm a specialty coffee professional, though, so personally I wish the new standard of smaller "traditional" cappuccino sizes were the standard in this area as well. I also wish the milk was aerated, "wet" with microfoam, and that the baristas presented beverages with art.

After our treats I asked Dean at the counter to suggest whole bean coffee. He was friendly, knowledgeable, and passionate about the unique experience Cilantro provides. I've encountered plenty of hipster baristas who give off "I don't care" vibes, and Dean was not that. I'm glad to have spoken to him and I'm excited to try the bag of coffee I purchased.

Overall this is a really cool shop with great baked goods and a laid back atmosphere that is...

Top notch staff, smooth service and worthy food means I'll visit again when in the area.

The staff was very attentive on the phone, which I appreciated as I did not know their menu. I asked if they could do my sandwich on a hard roll, which they couldn't - but they figured something else out, as an alternative, which I accepted.

When I picked this up, there was a line in front of me - but it was like 5 minutes and I had my meal in hand. I asked about restrooms there, which they don't have on premises, and I got an unexpected answer - but within 2 minutes I found the place in question.

I was glad I hung in there with this, as it's one of the best breakfast sandwiches I've ever had. For what I ordered I probably paid a bit more than the popular chains, but it was worth it. The coffee was really nice too, which all added up to a really worthwhile mid...