Kōdaiji Temple - illuminated at night — Attraction in Kyoto

Osaka Castle and the Silence of the Ears

Osaka Castle is undeniably impressive. With its towering walls, sweeping moat, and pristine gardens, it easily ranks among Japan’s most iconic landmarks. Built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, it symbolizes strength, ambition—and conquest.

But what most visitors don’t seem to realize is that Hideyoshi wasn’t just a national unifier. He was also the architect of two devastating invasions of Korea in the late 16th century—campaigns marked by mass slaughter, looting, and the mutilation of tens of thousands of Korean bodies.

Those ears and noses, taken as trophies, were buried in a mound still standing in Kyoto today—Mimizuka.

Strangely, few Korean tourists appear to visit that site. Instead, many can be seen joyfully touring Kōdaiji Temple, the resting place of Hideyoshi and his wife, Lady Nene. They pose for photos, light incense, and admire the Zen gardens—all while standing on the grave of the very man who orchestrated a national trauma.

It’s a peculiar contrast. To honor the warlord’s legacy, yet overlook the grave of his victims.

As an observer, it’s hard not to notice this disconnect. Korean travelers seem genuinely unaware—or perhaps quietly conflicted—about the history beneath their feet. In the castle, there is admiration. At the shrine, reverence. But at Mimizuka? Silence.

One wonders: What happens when a nation remembers its wounds only in private, but celebrates its pain in places of power?

That silence says more than words ever could.

And perhaps, it explains why some in Japan no longer feel the need to apologize— because even the wounded have stopped pointing...

During my brief visit to Kōdaiji Temple in Kyoto, I was pleasantly surprised by the profound impact it had on me, even in the short time I spent there. This temple stands out not only for its architectural beauty but also for the captivating stories that are woven into its history, accessible to visitors as they explore the grounds.

One of the most striking features of Kōdaiji Temple was the Buddha statue, which was much larger than I had anticipated. Its sheer size and the artistic craftsmanship made it a remarkable sight to behold. Despite my expectations, the grandeur and presence of the Buddha left a lasting impression.

Although our visit was quite brief, lasting only about 20 minutes, the experience was undeniably worth it. The temple grounds were serene and beautifully maintained, offering a sense of peace and tranquility that is hard to find in the bustling city.

The temple's stories, available to read as you wander through, added a layer of depth to our visit. They provided insight into the temple's rich history and cultural significance, making our short stay both educational and enriching.

In summary, Kōdaiji Temple is a remarkable site that offers a unique blend of spiritual serenity, historical richness, and artistic beauty. Even if you only have a short amount of time to spare, like we did, it's definitely worth a visit. The temple offers a brief but meaningful escape into Kyoto's historical and...

It was founded in 1606 in honor of the Sengoku period warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi by his legal wife Nene (Dharma name: Kōdai-in Kogetsuni), who took the tonsure and become a Buddhist nun after her husband’s death.  It can be easy to accidentally walk past this temple’s tree-sheltered stone staircase entrance, but those who make the short climb can enjoy not only a historical landmark but a beautiful example of Momoyama period architecture.  Because the temple was founded in order to carry out prayers for the deceased Hideyoshi, many treasures remain that are related to him, and Hideyoshi and Nene are worshiped at a sanctuary on the grounds.  The most striking detail of this temple is the quality of maki-e lacquer work visible on and in the various buildings on site.  In addition to the architecture, the grounds themselves are worth a leisurely stroll, featuring a pond and meandering path through a small bamboo forest.  Kōdai-ji also regularly participates in night openings and illuminations, providing an interesting chance to experience a...