Funaoka Onsen — Local services in Kyoto

Caution!!! Do NOT visit Funaoka Onsen if you are not 100% familiar with all the UNTOLD rules of Japanese Onsen (hot spring) culture.

Most Onsen establishments in Japan strictly prohibit visitor with tattoos to visit the facility. This is to avoid aggressive yakuza(gang members) causing troubles. For a long time I thought it’s just an old school Japanese discrimination toward people with tattoos that no longer fit with the modern trends; I was wrong.

11:00pm, I visited Funaoka Onsen through the recommendation of a local hotel. The elderly owner-couples were warm and welcoming. But as soon as I entered the facility, I noticed something unusual. There were at least five men covered in traditional Japanese full “sleeves & armour” tattoos. It didn’t bother me at first. In my culture, tattoos are no longer associated with gang members. I took my time enjoying the hot spring and everything went normal (I’ve been to more than a dozen Onsen establishments in Japan, including a very traditional mixed gender Onsen), until I placed the shower basket which held the shampoo and liquid soap next to me and started my finishing shower. While I was rinsing my hair, out of nowhere, a mid-age tattooed Japanese man started shouting at me. I don’t know Japanese, but I believe he was mad at me for occupying the shower basket (there were about 5 shower bucket laying around.) I immediately apologised in Japanese(the only few Japanese phrase I know), but that didn't help at all. He kept staring at me viciously while rinsing his body; it was extremely uncomfortable. I finished my shower as soon as I could and left the place.

Yes, stupid and selfish me, grabbing the basket all for myself. But there was no sign said not to do so(the place does have English signs), and I've never had similar treatment before. I guess it’s one of those "UNTOLD" rules, and if you’ve visited Japan before, you know what I’m taking about.

The difference is, a pack of naked yakuza might be NOT...

Tattoo friendly onsen!

You need to bring your own soap, shampoo, conditioner, towel, and washcloth. Otherwise you’ll need to purchase them at the counter. It feels a little dated, but I’m so glad they have kept the gorgeous wood carved panels and tiles.

Undress in the locker room where you’ll use a basket to hold all your clothes. Then grab a bowl and proceed past the cold rinse sinks into the bathing area. Wash off at a bathing station before you head into any of the pools.

There are a few pools of varied temperatures, a funny feeling electric pool, some with jets, and a separate cold plunge around the corner from the main pools. One door leads to the sauna - grab a foam pad to sit on before you head in. The other door leads to the outdoor bath.

I went around 8pm and it was decently busy. It’s a great place for a soak after a day of adventure in Kyoto. There’s also a small lounge area with vending machines so you can wait for your more temperature resilient friends to finish up.

I am so thankful that they accept folks with tattoos. The older gentleman running the counter was immediately like “yeah, tattoos, no problem” and I’m coated. I’ll definitely...

This was my first time visiting this historic public Sento. That day, I was able to enter from the right side, and from what I understand, the sides switch daily.

I wouldn't say the facility is super clean, but the vintage decorations and traditional design make it well worth a visit. As a traveler from Tokyo, I was also surprised by how lively the atmosphere was—locals were chatting freely, and there seemed to be no expectation to stay quiet. The experience felt completely different from Tokyo, but that's exactly what makes traveling so special.

The sauna itself is quite mild, but the cold water bath is truly noteworthy. Kyoto's natural groundwater is clean and smooth, offering a completely different sensation from Tokyo's water. If you're looking to experience an old, nostalgic, and uniquely Japanese Sento, this place is a must-visit.

Total Cost: ¥560 (Tax Included) Bath (includes Sauna): ¥510 Rental...