my partner and i tried out the newest indoctrination into the andrew mcconnell conglomerate after passing a couple of times on the 86. one cold night a few weeks later, before moon under water had opened, we decided to give the builders arms bistro a red hot go.
upon entering the establishment, the first thing that hit us was how unpub-ish it felt. where the front bar of a pub once stood, now felt like a sterile lobby with minimal space and seating. We approached the maitre d in the bistro to hopefully get a table as we hadn't booked. after giving our particulars we were told it would be about an hour for a table, so we headed back to the pubby-barry-thingy to have a beer. we ordered a couple of pints of cricketers arms to be told that they only have pots (no pints! in a pubby-barry-thingy!!). so we stood at the bar for the lack of seats/stools and scoffed at the size of our beers and how stark and sterile they've managed to make a once cosy fitzroy institution.
after 30 minutes we were surprised to learn that a table was ready for us so we moved into the bistro.
look, i am not going to go on about the food. it was delicious as expected from this group of restaurants. we shared smoked curd and clair de lune for starter, rib eye with broccoli salad and house chips for main, and chocolate prune pudding for desert. i couldn't fault it.
what really disappointed me about this establishment is it's distinct lack of ambiance (and i strongly believe that the ambiance is equal to the food in importance). the down-lighting lends a very washed out vibe while the fit out and art work is ordinary and uniform. some candles on tables, or floor lamps in corners could soften the space and add warmth, too. i have heard here and there that what the owners wanted to achieve was a gastropub but they have missed the mark if this is the case (may i point you towards the eagle or marquess tavern in london for accurate representations of what gastropubs should be).
it is a real shame that the builders arms hotel (pub) is gone and i can understand that for locals, it may feel like losing an old friend. it highlights the hits and misses of gentrification and how it can negatively impact on a given area. the builders arms hotel for...
Read moreThe Builders Arms Hotel continues to shine as one of Melbourne’s standout dining spots. Andrew O’Connell has once again delivered an exceptional experience, where top-tier food, outstanding service, and a welcoming atmosphere come together seamlessly.
We started with the sourdough and cultured butter, whipped cod roe with flatbread, and fries with aioli—all executed to perfection. The sourdough was crisp and airy, paired with deeply flavorful butter. The cod roe was silky smooth, rich, and beautifully smoky, complemented by warm, lightly charred flatbread. And the fries? Utterly addictive—golden, crisp, and perfectly seasoned, with a garlicky aioli that tied it all together.
For mains, we had the 250g O’Connor grain-fed steak, the half roast chicken, and the flathead special. The steak was cooked exactly to order, full of rich, smoky flavor, and paired with kohlrabi remoulade and pepper sauce. The roast chicken was succulent, its skin perfectly crisp, with heirloom zucchini adding a fresh contrast. The flathead special was light, flaky, and seasoned just enough to enhance its natural sweetness.
The sides— cos lettuce, heirloom carrots, and chopped broccoli—were anything but an afterthought. The lettuce was crisp and refreshing, the heirloom carrots had a wonderful roasted sweetness, and the broccoli, with mint, parsley, and freekeh, added layers of texture and depth.
To finish, the affogato was a simple yet perfect end to the meal, with smooth vanilla ice cream melting into bold espresso, and the option of a liqueur taking it to another level.
Service was exceptional—genuine, knowledgeable, and effortlessly attentive. The staff knew the menu inside out, offering thoughtful recommendations without being intrusive. The atmosphere strikes that perfect balance between refined and relaxed, making it a place where you can enjoy an elevated dining experience while still feeling completely at ease.
If you’re after outstanding food, warm service, and a venue that just gets it, the Builders Arms Hotel is a must-visit. Andrew O’Connell has once again set the bar high, and we’ll...
Read moreWe lived in Fitzroy up until Covid hit and we then moved to the country to escape the madness.. We still have an apartment in Collingwood and on rare occasions come back to stay there. And we did this weekend. We made the most of it - going back to our old favourites (pubs and restaurants) and of course we went back the the Builders. Well, you guys are still doing a great job! The pub has grown into itself since the makeover some years back and has a great vibe and a diverse crowd. We went for drinks on Saturday afternoon then went back for dinner on Sunday evening. We did not book - but no problem, even though it was pretty full. We were given a nice table for 2 in the dining room and were looked after like we owned the place. Our waiter "Brock" was polite, friendly and most of all professional. He knew his wines and also the food menu (backwards!). We have lived in Europe and the US for many years as expats and have eaten at some of the best restaurants in the world and the Builders is right up there! Casual but professional and serious "enough". A brilliant menu - not overly extensive but just the right size and with a brilliant range especially for the crazy seasonal weather we have been having. When we eat at a restaurant where our waiter is as professional and knowledgable as Brock we always go with recommendations. Brock nailed it. Whipped Cod Roe, Anchovy and stracciatella toast, asparagus, roast of the day and steak. Italian Rose' and halfway through Brock could see we need a small break so he suggested a digestivo - good call. Thoroughly enjoyable and Andrew if you read this review please make sure you hang onto Brock. He is a food and wine professional that just makes the Builders that little bit better oif an overall experience. Nice work Brock and great job Builders Arms!! We went again yesterday for our 10 year anniversary - of our business Design + Diplomacy and again, really great! Louie looked after us and he was perfect! Great timing, communication and knowledge of the food and wine options. Well done you guys and a special thank you to...
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