I remember eating at Hakata Issou for the first time several years ago and being blown away by its broth, and how it struck the delicate balance between 'old school' Hakata ramen and the more recent trends in the ramen scene. I've since eaten at Hakata Issou every time I visited Fukuoka, and the only change that took place between my first and latest visits is the store (deservedly) moving higher up in Tabelog rankings.

The broth at Hakata Issou is not as salty and fatty as some of the more classic tonkotsu broth one can still find in Fukuoka. It will probably come across as more palatable to a wider audience for this reason, and, also for the very same reason, Fukuoka locals, especially those of the older generation, occasionally complain that the broth at Issou is not 'authentic'. But Issou's trademark frothy broth, if lacking some of the qualities of classic Showa-era pork broth, in no way lacks depth: it is rich, unique, and flavourful. Though preferences will inevitably differ amongst connoissuers of Hakata ramen, no one can deny that the quality of the broth here is top-notch.

While those who are inclined toward thicker and/or charred chashu might be disappointed by Issou's thin and lightly seasoned chashu, it nonetheless suits the kind of broth on offer. The ajitama (seasoned egg) is excellently prepared. The yolk is perhaps a bit harder than average, but this also means that it does not spill into the broth when soaked. Seasoning is relatively subdued in both the chashu and ajitama, a quality that I have come to regard positively. For the broth is what deserves the most attention at Hakata Issou, and nothing else should overpower it. One can choose the firmness of the noodle, although I have the impression that the staff tends to forgo explaining the availability of that option to customers who do not speak Japanese.

At the time of this review, Hakata Issou offers one of the finest tonkotsu ramen in town, one that I believe every visitor to Fukuoka should give a try.